Cashmere in IRAN

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Transverse section through Raeini cashmere goat skin sample (at the sebaceous gland level) indicating follicle groups separated by Arrector Pili Muscle.
International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas

Cashmere in IRAN January 2013

Cashmere

Animal Sciences Research Institute

Animal Sciences Research Institute

International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas

Cashmere in IRAN January 2013

Hamid Reza Ansari-Renani Barbara Rischkowsky, Joaquín Pablo Mueller, Sepehr Moradi

Citation: Hamid Reza Ansari-Renani, Barbara Rischkowsky, Joaquín Pablo Mueller, Sepehr Moradi, 2013. Cashmere in Iran. Animal Sciences Research Institute, Karaj, Iran.

Table of Contents 1. Preface........................................................................................................................... 1 2. Introduction.................................................................................................................. 3 2.1. Goat population.....................................................................................................3 2.2. Cashmere goat breeds ............................................................................................3 2.3. Cashmere production and harvesting .....................................................................4 2.4. Cashmere production and follicle characteristics ..................................................11 2.5. Follicle inactivity (shutdown), fibre shedding and cashmere harvesting (shearing and combing) .....................................................................................................14 2.6. Cashmere shedding and time of shearing .............................................................15 2.7. Combing goats to avoid cashmere loss..................................................................17 3. Nomads and management of cashmere goats .............................................................. 20 3.1. Single and integrated families. ..............................................................................23 3.2. Labour force and work sharing..............................................................................25 3.3. Livestock species and management........................................................................25 3.4. Livestock and health management........................................................................28 3.5. Livestock products ...............................................................................................29 3.6. Feeding.................................................................................................................37 3.7. Watering...............................................................................................................41 4. Marketing of cashmere in Iran..................................................................................... 43 4.1. Competitiveness of Iranian cashmere....................................................................52 4.2. Cashmere value addition ......................................................................................55 4.3. Export market.......................................................................................................59

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5. Processing.................................................................................................................... 61 5.1. Sorting..................................................................................................................63 5.2. Dusting or opening ..............................................................................................69 5.3. Scouring...............................................................................................................70 5.4. Drying..................................................................................................................72 5.5. Pre-carding processing...........................................................................................75 5.6. Blending or mixing...............................................................................................78 5.7. Oiling the stock....................................................................................................78 5.8. Carding.................................................................................................................79

5.9. Dehairing..................................................................................................80 5.10. Quality control tests............................................................................................83 5.11. Cashmere bailing................................................................................................86 References........................................................................................................................ 89

1. Preface Cashmere is the fine, undercoat fibre (down) of cashmere goats. Cashmere is a luxury fibre regarded as one of the softest and warmest animal fibre principally used for clothing. Main producing countries of cashmere are China and Mongolia (60-70%) and Iran and Afghanistan (20-30%). Smaller quantities are also produced in Himalayan regions, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Annual production of cashmere is 30 µm) which provide a mechanical protection. Secondary (S) follicles are more numerous than primary follicles and produce non-medulated fine cashmere fibre (