12 Sep 2013 ... came from Batavia in Indonesia, the Swedes blended a ... Foto: Långbro
Värdshus. prIZe WInnInG ...... artists of all time. The museum shop has ...
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DINING I N T E R N A T I O N A L
DIN DIN
Welcome to Fine Dining - the place where the world comes together in Sweden
Fine Dining I N T E R N A T I O N A L
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3 EDITORIAL 4 NOTES 8 AMONGST FRIENDS
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OAXEN inn &SLIPway
Now the summer has passed and the establishment has received nothing but praise from satisfied guests.
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CHRISTMAS COMES AND GOES EVERY YEAR
(Sweden´s love affair with Crayfish)
Klötzkes square Christmas dinner at Fjäderholmarna.
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35 FERMENTED HERRING FESTIVAL
THE SALT MAGAZINE,
flagship in a small family concern.
the third Thursday in August is the premiere for the festival.
20 VISIT DJURGÅRDEN
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Restaurant and café and information center all in the same building.
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ZLATAN, PETTER and NIEL
”I love hotel lobbies, meeting rooms, restaurants and beds”...
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THE BIRGIT NILSSON MUSEUM AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE
GRANDS HOTEL´S NEW VERANDA
has long been a classic restaurant and famous for its legendary smorgasbord.
The museum is situated on the farm that has been in the Nilsson family´s possession since the 1700s. It is an experience above and beyond the ordinary.
Who are the ChAîne des Rôtisseurs The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.
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EDITORIAL
Welcome To Fine Dining It is perfectly acceptable to forward Fine Dining to friends and acquaintances that are interested in Fine Dining. Let us know about interesting events, meetings and so on at
[email protected] We cannot take responsibility for unsolicited material. Feel free to quote us but always reveal your sources.
Autumn is here, bringing with it its pallet of flavours and fragrances
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arthy colours and aromas make their entrance onto the culinary stage - game and poultry, mushrooms in all shapes and sizes, hot soups and particularly cozy warm beverages.
(There´s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong drinks!) In this issue of Fine Dining we introduce many new and exciting peo-
Editor in Chief Ove Canemyr
[email protected] Fine Dining/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm Editorial Anne-Marie Canemyr, Carl Wachtmeister Catarina Offe Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Art Director Sophie L Slettengren
[email protected] English copy Roger Brett
[email protected]
ple, places to go and meals to enjoy. We do an historical review of the crayfish phenomena and take a peek at the Birgit Nilsson Museum of Bjärehalvön. Time to paint some lovely colours of this wonderful time of the year, when nature displays her pantry and invites us all to enjoy its culinary delights.
We wish you a really lovely autumn with lots of good food & drink. Editors of Fine Dining.
Would you like to be associated in Fine Dining? Tell us about your products or services. Newly opened or new designs, new foodstuffs and so on. Contact:
[email protected] +46 70 794 09 87 Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr
Ove canemyr Editor-in-Chief www.finedining.se
PS Let us know about friends and acquaintances who you think would like to receive a copy of Fine Dining.
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NOTES
A Right Punch-Up Celebrating Swedish Punch 280 years in August 2013
In August 1733 the East Indiaman Fredricius Rex Suecia returned to Gothenburg harbour from her maiden voyage to China with, amongst other things, arrack in her hold. From this arrack, which came from Batavia in Indonesia, the Swedes blended a drink called punch which the Swedish people took to their hearts. It was extremely popular, right up to the prohibition era which preceded the First World War.
Berns celebrates with a punch Punch has always played a big role in Berne’s 150-year history. People came here to eat cakes and drink punch while being entertained. The business has changed with the times but the punch has stayed.
The Punch Day / Event At The Grand Theatre In Gothenburg The 280th anniversary was highlighted at the Crystal Bar of the Grand Theatre in Gothenburg, with a cocktail competition and organized punch exhibition. Punch played a prominent role in the drinks, and bartenders from selected Gothenburg restaurants took part in the event.
The point of difference is the PartyPunch from the Centenary celebrations and the new drink will keep its name. The ingredients are based on the traditional arrack flavor but with a modern twist of bitter orange, giving a taste that is quite unique.
Maria´s Wine The California Chardonnay is the first wine from Maria Montazami´s wine collection. It is a beautifully clear, strawcoloured wine in the American style with aromas of apricots and apples, with hints of butter. This is a fresh wine with flavours of tropical fruits, a touch of oak and a good long finish. Excellent, of course, to drink in Maria’s personalised white wine glasses. This wine pairs very well with fish and poultry. We´re wondering what wine will sparkle in Maria´s red wine glasses?
Tobias Q. Oldenfeldt Winner: Bar Manager Hotel Avalon, Gothenburg Punch flip 40 ml Facile punch 10 ml lemon 10 ml sugar 30 ml of grapefruit juice Egg yolk Dry shake, shake with ice and double strain the drink into a coupette. The drink was served together with a mini pancake with punch-flavoured cream. www.punschensdag.se
vis i t u s at Fac e book
Fine Wines very own homepage
w w w. f in e w i n e. n u
Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine
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Foto: Långbro Värdshus
Frederick’s No Place
Fredrik Eriksson is known for recognizing opportunities in odd places. A case in point is the Långbro Inn which has been a success from day one. Now, a building designed by Gunnar Asplund hidden away on the outskirts of Stockholm in Solna, will become a hotel and restaurant with Frederick at the helm. The concept is contemporary and urbane and should be ready in 2014. The restaurant will feature a broad menu offering both Swedish and international food. To begin with, it will serve breakfast and lunch with a modern touch, and brunch on the weekends. Take-away meals will be on offer for those who wish. But if we know Fredrik, it won´t stop there!
Prize Winning Chefs open a New Pub In early November, Tom Sjöstedt , Chef of the Year 2009, and Daniel Rams , Chef of the Year 2013, will fling open the doors to their new restaurant on Västmannagatan, in downtown Stockholm. To help them in their endeavor, they will include Jimmi Eriksson, winner of Young Chef of the year 2013. “Everything´s in full swing and the kitchen is almost finished,” says Tom cheerfully. When asked about the concept, he says it´ll be the best kick-ass pub in the neighbourhood!
New Look For the Wiener Konditori (Vienna Patisserie) This venerable bakery was founded in 1904 by an Austrian pastry chef, and has been at the same location in the heart of Stockholm ever since. Located on the corner of Library Street and Mästersamuels Gatan, guests have been enjoying good coffee and delicious cakes, laughing, gossiping and perhaps even crying with a friend over a lost love. In recent years the patisserie has expanded with outdoor dining just around the corner and has a wonderful view, both for visitors and passersby. The bakery has undergone a major renovation and will open again in September. When it reopens it will be Stockholm´s new Grand Café. Daniel Lindenberg, of the successful Franzen / Lindeberg restaurant, will become the gastronomic and creative director. ”He was the one I wanted,” says Peter Nordin, representing the PDF Brasserie Group. The excellent coffee and delicious pastries will be augmented with light meals such as salads and crêpes and, of course, a glass of champagne or two.
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[email protected]
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Tommy Myllymäki
This Year´s Mulled Wine
Sweden’s representative at the Bocuse d’Or Europe 2014.
The big news this year is that the flavour will not be evident from the bottle. Drawing inspiration come from the dales of Dalarna, or Dalecarlia as it is known outside of Sweden, the bottle has a Dales-inspired design and is adorned with a floral kurbits’ folk art design. It has a beautiful, deep red color, reminiscent of the traditional Falu red paint which is the colour of the wooden houses there.
Six contestants were interviewed and prepared their respective fish and meat dishes, which were then evaluated for both taste and presentation by the jury. Tommy and his dishes were strong winners and now they await a year of training and refinement. Bocuse d’Or Europeans’ chef championships will be held in May 2014 where Sweden stands as the proud organiser. Eight months later in January 2015, the Cooking World Championships will take place in Lyon, France. We´ll keep our fingers crossed for the Swedish contestants.
The bottle shows the map co-ordinates of the town of Mora, located on the shores of lake Siljan. Since 2003 vintage mulled wine has become a beloved Christmas tradition on a par with ham, saffron buns and the Christmas calendar. With flavours of blueberry, saffron and clementine, through the years Blossa have created memorable mulled wines that unite and engage. The past two years have seen palate excursions to El Salvador and Japan. This year it returns to Sweden.
Upper House
After 10 successful years the Lux gang was proud and very pleased with the success of their fine dining restaurant, but were eager to come up with new ideas. The Lux restaurant was up for sale but now Norstrom & Co have come up with new ideas for their ‘old’ premises down by Lake Malaren, at a place called Lilla Essingen. ”It will mean that Lux will be more accessible to more people who will return more often. We continue to work with local ingredients of the highest quality both from small and large suppliers, producers, growers, fishermen and hunters,” says Henrik Norstrom. The dishes are presented in a simple way and with few components, scaled down and rustic. Courses will be changed on a daily basis. It will be fun - a creative challenge. The daily menu will be available only so long as the raw materials are available. The ‘new Lux’ diners will also be able to pop in for a glass of wine and some nibbles in the bar. There will be 5-6 starters and as many main dishes and desserts. The prices range from 85 to 250 Swedish Crowns kr. There will be a so-called ‘walk through’ where you can take a peek through one of the kitchen windows. Anyone can buy something good to eat outside in the park or at home. There will also be the opportunity to buy asparagus, ripe strawberries, hunted pheasant or Ängsö fish along with advice on preparing them.
The managing trio is made up of hotel manager Nina Fors, Krister Dahl, executive Chef and Chef Måns Backlund. You can enjoy the ultimate in luxury for 3oo Euros a night and we believe it´s worth every penny. More on this in the next edition of Fine Dining. Photo: Karin Björning Engström
Restaurant Lux
Up in the second tower of Gothia towers, they´ve just opened a small and very exclusive hotel. It is more luxurious than most with its 59 luxury rooms, an opulent spa area, and a pool that looks out over the whole of Gothenburg. The restaurant offers fine dining to the highest international standard.
Food Tourism - the New Travel Incentive From 21-24 September the world’s largest conference on food tourism will be held in Gothenburg. The World Food Travel Summit will attract professionals from all over the world gathering inspiration, knowledge and key contacts with anyone involved in tourism, travel and fine foods. Today’s traveler is looking to experience something unique and authentic which is characterised by responsibility and consideration for people, nature and the environment. Magnus Nillson from Fäviken Magazine in Jämtland and Daniel Schwalb from the Siam Winery in Thailand are amongst the most talented entrepreneurs and will tell us how they made their dreams come true.
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Spotlight on Birds at Mathias Dahlgren´s Theme menus are a regular feature in Mathias Dahlgren´s restaurant and right now the focus is on autumn birds and their unusual eggs. The whole bird is used, even the heart, liver and claws. Mathias had some trouble getting the claws but of course he never gives up. The menu features dishes such as Unusual Eggs, Liver & Heart, Seabird and Forest Hens. All are served with innovative flavour combinations. The themes are designed to offer guests a new gastronomic experience. This has been a learning curve for Mathias´s staff. Development and creativity create job satisfaction; new themes, new challenges and the need for new skills.
Photo: Magnus Skoglöf/Catarina Offe
“It’s great to learn new things all the time,” says Mathias and his staff nod unanimously. Even the guests can learn something new.
Fine Dining at Stadshuskällaren The Venerable Stadshuskällaren, or City Hall Cellar, has been open under a new chef for more than a year. Chef Fredrik Larsson is also coach to the Swedish national cooking team. Last week he presented the Cellar´s new autumn menu. Here are a few tidbits from the menu: • Pan fried king crab with baked Swedish cauliflower, hazelnuts and preserved lemon. • Press-baked pheasant with foie gras, celeriac, apple and crème with a rye biscuit. • Cauliflower and eggs with Gotland´s truffle, brown butter and leaves and shoots from various Swedish farms. • Glass boiled Berring sea cod with Sanda ägg, shrimp, horseradish and brown butter. • Saddle of venison with roast apple, applesmoked bacon, foie gras, black cabbage and fava beans. • Löfsta blue cheese with pickled onions and beetroot • Preserved plums and plum sorbet, served with marshmallows, raspberry and chocolate eggs. For more information on www.stadshuskallarensthlm.se
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Amongst Friends
(The Swedish Love Affair with Crayfish) Text & photo: Carl Wachtmeister
If one were to launch a brand new concept to a bunch of Swedes, where we are all supposed to gather reverently around a table to feast upon a boiled creature which is related to all sorts of insects and millipedes, which is a scavenger that had lived out its life in the sludge and slime at the bottom of our rivers, then it probably wouldn´t be successful.
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n fact It isn´t too far-fetched to think that the whole idea would be abandoned. Much like those fleeting video clips you see of people in distant lands feasting on indescribable and revolting looking oddities. Put simply, I don´t like eating insects, except perhaps for the occa-
sional fly which has slipped down the gullet while cycling with my mouth open or riding in a convertible car. It might also be because my father made my brother and me eat chocolate-covered ants as children. He also tried with locusts in honey, but that was an end to it. Since then I have become somewhat sceptical to the idea of
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Although they belong to the species arthropods and are a sub-specie of the crustacean family which immediately renders them far more
insects as food. I have to admit though to a kind of double morality in which we accept the things we are accustomed to, while other things require a degree of acclimatization. Luckily, the objective of this article relates to insects. Although they belong to the species arthropods and are a sub-specie of the crustacean family which immediately renders them far more appetizing. Now that we are in the pleasurable company of their relatives shrimp, crabs and lobsters, the racing pulse subsides a little as
we focus now upon the crayfish. Without fear of contradiction I can honestly say that we Swedes have a special relationship with this creature. The part that touches the actual consuming the crayfish is prevalent in all age groups, and reaches right across the country. If you live near a stream, river or lake where wild crayfish breed, then you certainly have many memories associated with actually catching them as well.
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Even to this day the purists still discuss whether the correct date was the 7th or 8th of August. These are of course the “It used to be much better in the old days”
Catching a Crayfish...
My early life was characterised by cray fishing. Back then, right up until 1994, the catching of crayfish was far more regulated than today. The whole operation was centered on the crayfish season, the time when you were allowed to commence fishing for these delicacies. The magical day that everyone had been waiting for finally arrived in early August. Even to this day the purists still discuss whether the correct date was the 7th or 8th of August. These are of course the “It used to be much better in the old days” cray fishermen, however one thing they were united in was the timing. The starting shot of the crayfish season resounded all over the country and was at exactly 5pm on the day. The cages and nets were already baited and waiting for the
moment when they would be ceremoniously heaved over the sides of boats. Just like regular fishermen, there are various schools of thought and endless recipes upon what is the best bait to use. Everything from herring, to all kinds of other fish, fermented herring, even rabbits. Everyone is happy to employ his or her own methods. In the past, before my time, crayfish were caught by hand in shallow waters with the help of a lamp or torch. This practice, though mourned by many today, is no longer allowed. Nowadays there are no general rules about when you can start fishing. In my opinion this is a shame because a premiere is always a premiere and always brings with it a certain festivity.
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that I mean never more violence than the occasional nudge before the poachers considered it best to depart. Hunting poachers gave an extra dimension of excitement and spice to the whole operation.
Part of the actual run up to the cray fishing season was keeping a good eye on your water. Due to the season there was also a certain motivation for poachers to fish them a little in advance. When the first Swedish crayfish of the season hit the shops, they were always grossly overpriced. In fact they still are, but not quite in the same way. To prevent this happening, one had to pull on waders and go squelching through the reed beds, muddy fields and marshy Elk forests along our crayfish stream. Sometimes we would run into a poacher and confiscate his gear during the night before the law had time to arrest them. In rare cases, it might even have come to a scuffle. By
Besides standing guard over the crayfish breeding grounds, one also had to take care of the creatures’ welfare. Even then, there were signs in our neighborhood of the crayfish pest, which is a parasite that can effectively knock out the whole crayfish population. So as not to spread the disease and wipe out other colonies of crayfish, it is important to only use local gear, or gear that has been washed with spirits or disinfectant. In practical terms, this presents some difficulty, because it also applies to other fishing equipment and things like canoes and so on. Sadly, we note that the pest has even come to our lakes and the crayfish have in fact disappeared. So I keep my fingers crossed hoping that the Swedish crayfish will one day return. To my knowledge, there are no American signal crayfish stocked in Swedish waters. These are the one ones that are carriers of the crayfish pest, but are resistant to it themselves. So what do you do when you catch some crayfish? Are they from muddy water and perhaps containing other impurities? It’s a good idea to put them in fresh water for a while. After that it´s time to boil them. Just as there
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For the faithful there are of course the mandatory accessories crayfish hats, bibs, colorful napkins, crayfish lanterns, garlands and so on. Anything adorned with crayfish or lobster print. There are also crayfish songbooks containing catchy little crayfish-feasting ditties.
are various methods of catching them there are many variations on the correct way to prepare them. Water, salt and dill are always included; in most recipes you´ll find sugar cubes and beer, the latter ranging from pale ale and lager to stout beer. The crayfish are boiled alive for about 8-10 minutes. After boiling, let them cool down. They taste best if left in their own liquor overnight. For those of you who don´t have the opportunity to catch crayfish yourself, you can always go to the local dealer, food hall or fishmonger. Swedish crayfish are a little more expensive. For those who are a little more flexible there are crayfish from China, Spain, Turkey and the USA. Some Swedish companies have their own agents abroad who locate good waters and catch and cook crayfish. Some of them even fly Swedish dill to these places in an effort to achieve the correct flavour. Crayfish are not things that Swedish people take lightly.
serve up this sumptuous meal. For the faithful there are of course the mandatory accessories - crayfish hats, bibs, colorful napkins, crayfish lanterns, garlands and so on. Anything adorned with crayfish or lobster print. There are also crayfish songbooks containing catchy little crayfish-feasting ditties. The crayfish themselves are served in large bowls garnished generously with dill. Other obligatory accessories at a crayfish party are toast, spiced cheeses, and in Sweden these would be
The Feast Itself
Now the time has come for the actual banquet - the crayfish feast. If you have a porch, a gazebo, or an old barn then this is the place to
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Västerbotten cheese and Prästost (Parson´s cheese). Crisp bread, like Ryvita, Wasa etc, with butter, delicious pies, and sometimes herring in mayonnaise. Many people have their own special accessories on the menu. It´s important to understand that there are no real boundaries here. To drink, there are a variety of different beers. To our great delight, the beer culture has evolved significantly in Sweden in recent years, and the selection is quite vast. Another mandatory is schnapps and here there are no limitations. Everyone has their own favorites and many actually season the spirits themselves, preferably with something that picks up the saltiness and strong dill flavour in the crayfish. If you have any room or strength left, then it’s nice to finish off with something sweet. Swedish summer strawberries or raspberries are a really safe bet. For those of you who have never been to a crayfish party it may be difficult to explain. This is something that simply has to be experienced. Sitting together in a colourful location on a warm August evening with everyone in a good mood, excited about the delicious
food to come. It´s very important for the crayfish-loving Swedes that the crustacean table should be creatively decorated. Often one digs out rustic old barrels, old porcelain jugs and bowls out of ancient dressers and arrange them stylishly to display the self-caught crayfish on. I can remember the family who, for many years, had presented their crayfish on a large dish that was always stored on the bottom shelf of a kitchen cabinet at their summerhouse. At one such crayfish feast they had a guest, an antiques expert, who almost fell off his chair when he saw what the little red creatures were displayed on. The bowl was found to be from a Chinese imperial dynasty and extremely rare. After that particular crayfish party they no longer dared to use the dish quite so casually again. Eventually it was sold at auction for a few hundred thousand crowns or maybe it was a million. One thing is clear though, that the money raised was enough to pay for many, many crayfish parties for years to come...
The Crayfish The crayfish is an articulated animal with a hard outer exoskeleton, which we refer to as the shell. Our Swedish crayfish are found naturally in Europe. The animal is mainly active during the evening and nighttime, which is when they feed in shallower water. During the daytime they rarely leave their hiding places, such as old fallen trees, under rocks, reeds and other good hidey-holes. The crayfish is an omnivore and feeds on a wide variety of plants, insects, fish and carrion. The minimum size you are allowed to keep from the fishing net is 10 cm from its forehead tip to its tail. In Sweden there is the Swedish river crayfish, but the American signal crayfish have also been introduced.
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Checklist for a Crayfish Party Feast • Crayfish • Spicy cheeses like the Västerbotten cheese • Plenty of white bread, baguettes or rolls • Crispbread (Ryvita, Wasa etc) • Butter • Crown dill for garnish • Mayonnaise or Aioli • Water • Plates, preferably specially decorated with crayfish • Glasses for beer, schnapps and wine • Wet wipes for sticky fingers • A good selection of light and dark beers. • White wine, dry and fresh (as an alternative to beer ) • Schnapps, many varieties (white brandies) • Welcome cocktail drink or bowl of punch • A selection of pies e.g. Vasterbotten pie. • Dessert such as strawberries or raspberries • Extra food supplies for serving a late supper and nightcaps Optional Accessories • Optional crayfish dishes • Crayfish Cutlery • Crayfish pliers for cracking lobster claws • Large barrels for shells • Large barrels to display the crayfish on • Paper Tablecloths for tables • Candles and night-lights for extra coziness • Table decorations with crayfish themes • Paper Lanterns with crayfish themes • Crayfish Hats • Bibs • Napkins • Paper place mats • A selection of song sheets and music! • Sånghäften och musik!
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Good news for Connoisseurs This autumn you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se 7–9 of October starting at 1 pm 11–19 of November starting at 1 pm 9–11 of December starting at 1 pm
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Restaurant Salt Magazine Text: Catarina Offephoto: Carl Wachtmeister
When Henrik Arkåsen was ten years old, he saw a picture of some chefs in a newspaper. “They were all in white and kind of dazzling,” says Henrik and at that moment he knew what he wanted to be when he grew up. He stuck to his decision, doggedly experimenting at home in the family kitchen and when he was old enough he attended the restaurant school.
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o become a fully-fledged professional he continued his training at the Restaurant and Hotel Institute in Grythyttan for three years. After working in both urban and rural areas, as well as overseas, in countries which had strong gastronomic traditions, he eventually settled down in Västervik. Then with his own and his best friend’s family he started the restaurant, which is now enjoying its tenth year in operation. “It’s not always a good idea to do what we have done,” says Henrik, “but it´s worked out well for us. “We do
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everything together; it’s not a job, but more of a lifestyle,” he adds. The Restaurant Salt Magazine is the flagship of the small family group of companies, which includes its own bakery. As the name suggests, the restaurant is housed in an old warehouse which dates back to the 1700s. In those days, Västervik Port was one of the Baltic’s largest and also one
of 17 ports which had the right to conduct foreign trade, and indeed store salt. Later, along with other historically important buildings, it was moved to a mini open-air museum. The restaurant is about 5 minutes outside the Västervik city center, just far enough to make it difficult to attract diners during winter. “We’ve tried staying open, but now the Salt Magazine
The Restaurant Salt Magazine is the flagship of the small family group of companies, which includes its own bakery.
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”We are very pleased that our customers put up with our constant changes,” said Henrik
is a summer restaurant, but open for orders during the off-season,” Henrik explains. However, the rest of the company continues to function during the winter months. The bakery delivers bread daily to a couple of grocery stores in the city. The bakery has its own modest experimental workshop, constantly trying out new recipes. All bread making is done manually. “We are very pleased that our customers put up with our constant changes,” said Henrik with a grateful smile. At Salt Magazine the basic menu
is Smålandic and local produce always takes priority. “The flavour comes before the raw ingredients,” Henry says. He doesn’t have any particular favourites. All good ingredients can taste good if they´re cooked correctly. Cabbage pudding, dill-marinated meat and potato dumplings are examples of the dishes Henrik likes to cook for himself. Of course the Restaurant menu promises much more
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than this. They have their own smoked salmon and night fried pork loin from Håkan Jonsson in Brantestad. Every month features its own special menu with seasonal ingredients and since 2004, every summer they serve their signature dish – ‘Mustard Marinated herring with mashed potatoes, pickled red onion, dill crème and lingon berries’. The honour, however, goes to the legendary restauranteur Tore Wretman. Henrik found the idea in his archives. “When we eat out, though, I like Thai food,” Henrik says. “I´m fond of the balance and imbalance,” he adds. The fact that the Salt Magazine keeps a low profile during the
winter doesn´t mean that Henrik is resting on his laurels. “We have invested a lot in the future, particularly the opportunity of holding cooking classes.” Recently, they have also become members of the Chaine des Rotisseurs, a fact that Henrik intends to nurture for the benefit of diners and the potential for professional contacts here in Sweden as well globally. And when Henrik has time he’s always on at the local government to encourage good food and nutrition for children and the elderly in the community. “It´s so important and I want to help,” says Henrik. If you ever get to meet Henrik, then you´ll be in no doubt that he will succeed.
” Recently, they have also become members of the Chaine des Rotisseurs, a fact that Henrik intends to nurture for the benefit of diners and the potential for professional contacts here in Sweden as well globally.
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YOUR RECRUITMENT PARTNERS WITHIN FMCG WITH FOCUS UPON IMPORTERS Since 2000, Sikta Urval, a company within the Sikta Group has been a strategic partner in FMCG. Regardless of whether you are seeking staff or you yourself are working within the industry and you want to take a look at something new then Sikta can be your partner. In the initial phase all consultations are free and strictly confidential. Over the years we have contributed i n finding absolute Leaders in their field. We have clients that we been associated with for more than 10 years. We have seen little small operators go on to be industrial leaders within just a couple of years. Part of their success is of course the personnel. We help:
Producers, Wine & Spirits importers / HoReCa & Food operatives. We recruit:
Product managers / Brand Managers / Senior Brand Managers / Account managers / key account managers / Blenders / Managing Directors / Sales and marketing Managers and Others. You can always just contact us. Or let us contact you, email or text me and we will get back to you immediately. www.sikta.se Andreas Flyckt
[email protected] 070-725 48 36 direct or vx 08 678 00 00
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Visit Djurgården text & photo: Ove Canemyr
A decision has been made to build a restaurant / café and an information center in the same building, on the right hand side of the beautiful Djurgården Bridge.
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fter a delay, they´ve finally got rid of the old hot dog stand and ‘Hey Presto!’ suddenly it´s all happening. Just as autumn is making her entrance. The hot dog stand has been moved over to the Vasa museum, which houses the legendary Galleon
Gustav Wasa, which sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628. Opposite the Strand Quay, there is a gigantic open air restaurant with much to choose from in terms of food and drink, and for those who feel like it you can even hire a pedal boat. Inside the restaurant there
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Opposite the Strand Quay, there is a gigantic open air restaurant with much to choose from in terms of food and drink, and for those who feel like it you can even hire a
is a beautiful open-hearth fire. Not that anyone needed a fire over this wonderful summer, but when the north winds start to blow in about a month or so it will be very welcome. For anyone wanting to know what is happening on the island of Royal Djurgården, this is a paradise. Everything from printed brochures and maps to electronic information is available, and the very knowledgeable on-site multi-lingual personnel who are able to give advice to tourists.
the conclusion that the quality of the food matches the price. For those coming to the Royal Park for the first time, this is an excellent starting point.
But let us sit down and enjoy a good meal. We quickly came to
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Grand Hotel´s New Veranda text: catarina offe photo: Åke Eson Lindman/Catarina Offe
This year marks the centenary of the first summer Veranda which was built at Stockholm´s Grand Hotel. However, it took until 1974 before it became a permanent fixture. Up till then it was only open during the spring and summer season.
The Veranda itself has been a classic in Stockholm for a long time especially for its smorgasbord or Swedish buffet.
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The interior design of the New Veranda is characterized by restrained elegance and timelessness.
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he Veranda itself has been a classic in Stockholm for a long time especially for its smorgasbord or Swedish buffet. The New Veranda at the Grand Hôtel in Stockholm was inaugurated after an extensive renovation. The interior design of the New Veranda is characterized by restrained elegance and timelessness. Inspiration has been taken from traditional Swedish patterns with plant motifs which also include
embroidery from vintage wedding gowns. The colour scheme is white and dark blue with hints of purple and trimmings in bronze. The floor is in light marble and the ceiling is adorned with graceful chandeliers. The Veranda can seat 110 guests. New Veranda will continue to promote Swedish traditions with its ambition to restore the smorgasbord to the realm of fine dining.
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Themed buffets such as shellfish festival weeks, Northern buffet and crayfish buffet will remain on the menu and therefore greatly enhance the buffet concept. First up will be the seafood week that has been fully subscribed for a long time. In fact all themed buffets are fully booked. Behind the scenes brand new restaurant kitchens have been equipped to ensure the highest quality for diners, which at the same time affords a good working environment for the chefs. Nowadays they greet all regular customers from near and far. The regulars in fact go to make up 60% of all visitors. www.grandhotel.se/en#
New Veranda will continue to promote Swedish traditions with its ambition to restore the smorgasbord to the realm of fine dining.
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The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.
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Oaxen Pub & Slipway Three Months after the Inauguration Text: Catarina Offe photo: Oaxen
Everyone was talking about the Oaxen Pub & Slipway long before the grand opening. It was the number one foody buzz. Summer has been and gone and the establishment has received nothing but praise from satisfied customers.
W
hat do Magnus Ek and Agneta Green, the restauranteurs themselves, think?
That summer would offer such fantastic weather is something we hadn´t factored in.”
“We are well satisfied; it was almost exactly as we planned it,” says Magnus. “The things that didn´t go exactly to plan are those that you have to factor in when planning an opening like this.
The new restaurant is considerably bigger than the old one - a restaurant of the same name but located on an island out in the Stockholm skerries.
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The proximity to the water remains, so guests who like to arrive at Oaxen by boat can continue in that tradition even though the compass reading is different.
“Now we really need good employees - our staff has more than doubled,” said Magnus, “because it´s quite impossible to be everywhere at once.” “I’m out in the dining room much more than in the kitchen,” he explains. “The famous ten-course menu has been extended with more small starters and parts of the menu are changed. The ingredients are the same; previous suppliers are still on board with some new ones added. The proximity to
the water remains, so guests who like to arrive at Oaxen by boat can continue in that tradition even though the compass reading is different. The other difference is that now we´re open all year round. The autumn will be fine,” says Magnus with confidence. “It’s nice to be out on Djurgården, a very rural part of central Stockholm, and almost like being out in
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In the dining room you can enjoy fine dining at the highest level. In addition, The Oaxen Slipway offers its own interpretation of Swedish bistro with tasty, uncomplicated dishes.
the country. You can even get here by tram and if you’re lucky there will be seats available!” he adds. Magnus and Agneta have always sought a sustainable relationship between food, drink and hospitality. In the dining room you can enjoy fine dining at the highest level. In addition, The Oaxen Slipway offers its own interpretation of Swedish bistro with tasty, uncomplicated dishes. It has already be-
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come a meeting place, with quite a mixed crowd, a friendly restaurant where you can come often. A seat on the tram is nice too!
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Christmas comes and goes every year Text och photo: Catarina Offe
It may seem early, but if you want to ensure a place at Stockholm’s best Christmas Feast, then now´s the time to book. If you want to do it on Christmas Eve then it really is high time to make your reservation. In Stockholm the following legendary restaurants are open on Christmas eve: Operakällaren (Opera Cellar), The Grand Hotel, Stallmästaregården, Ulrikedalsvägen Wärdshus and Hasselbacken, all of which serve high class Christmas fare. Several other restaurants are now open during the Christmas holidays.
Gert Klötzkes Four Square Christmas
Among all the Christmas banquets on during the month of December, there is one star that shines brighter than the others. When Gert Klötzke, professor of gastronomy and former leader of
the Swedish national Chef´s team, presented the new Christmas arrangements for the Gripsholm Inn a few years ago it caused a revolution. Stylish, modern and appetizing. And indeed plentiful. It is now a Christmas tradition at Fjäderholmarna. Instead of
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The fact that everything tastes so delicious ensures the popularity of Gert’s groaning table of Christmas fare at the Fjäderholmarnas Inn.
mulled wine, they serve a drink consisting of apple juice with a splash of whisky. Their approach to the Christmas dinner is an experience in itself. Like soldiers standing to attention, all of the food is laid out in neat rows in single portions and you can sample more than one. Gone are the days of the jumble of salmon slices, gaping holes in the middle of serving dishes, misshapen pies and terrines. The fact that everything tastes so delicious ensures the popularity of Gert’s groaning table of Christmas fare at the Fjäderholmarnas Inn. Awesomely large plates are provided so there´s no need to stack delicacies on top of each other. The opening herring table is divided into two orderly queues. The herrings are cut into small morsels.
The potatoes are served in small deep dishes at each table. The cheeses are cut into cubes so you avoid both the toboggan runs and hollowed-out cheddar cheeses. In addition to the many schnapps, led by Fjäderholmare´s Tuting, there is gin, Madeira and Port and if that´s not to your liking there is also a selection of wine available. All pâtés, sausages, and brawn are beautifully presented. The small portions allow one to be adventurous and try dishes that one normally wouldn’t. Have you all eaten pig´s trotters and horse sausage before? If not, this is an excellent opportunity to expand your palate. Between the cold and warm dishes there is the fresh vegetable table. Before you start on the warm dishes why not try the lute fish,
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which is served elegantly at the table. A row of chefs stand in line ready to assist in serving. The little prince sausages, the meatballs are tiny and hand-rolled, the mini pork dumplings and homemade black pudding are of course oldfashioned dishes presented in a modern way. The lamb and potato puree are in individually portioned dishes served by Prof Gert Klötzke himself. Dessert cheeses are served at the table. The dessert table is where you´ll find homemade vanilla ice cream and rose hip soup in small glasses. I like the serving glasses of mulled pear and cheesecake. Amongst the confectionery the chocolate and licorice toffee is the most delicate. The waiters work smoothly and
discreetly but are always there when needed. They also have a good memories! Nothing is forgotten and they know which schnapps you´ve been drinking. Even though paying the bill went smoothly enough, there wasn´t really enough time for coffee. But we have coffee at home, and after the wonderful feast and a refreshing walk in the bitter winter cold it is perhaps more appropriate.
The waiters work smoothly and discreetly but are always there when needed.
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It´s in the Can
(Premier for the annual Swedish fermented herring festival) Text: Catarina Offe Foto: Catarina Offe
The third Thursday in August will see the opening of the highly anticipated fermented herring festival. It is forbidden by law to sell this product before that date. Earlier vintages of course are not bound by this regulation.
F
ans may, of course, consume their favorite fish anywhere they please, perhaps even in solitude but for the rest of us the experience is heightened by appropriate surroundings and convivial company. So in the early morning of this sunny day I cycle off to Skansen, Stockholm´s wonderful open air Museum. I have been invited to take part in their very own ‘Surströmmings’ premiere. Sitting on a lush lawn with the courtyard of 18th century Mansion as a backdrop, the herring table was being laid by restaurateur KC Wallberg and the former Swedish home secretary Anna-Greta Leijon, who is now the owner of Plate Number 9 in The Fermented Herring Academy. Altogether it is a mixed company of fermented herring experts and occasional consumers like myself who immediately start enquiring whether
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the fish should be accompanied by hard or soft flatbread, red or yellow onions, beer or milk. I’m the only one who sprinkled dill over the fish and quite rightly so. Fingerling potatoes, flat bread and onions tend to be the most common trimmings. Famous culinary enthusiasts like Chef Leif Mannerström prefer more northern accompaniments such as cheese, whey cheese and cranberries. To drink, a pale ale or light lager and caraway schnapps and fennel flavored spirits. My surströmming expert prefers dark rum. Nonalcoholic beverages are cordials, fizzy drinks and milk. Why milk you might ask? Probably because it used to be the only drink that was available. It doesn´t have to
be complicated! It´s a matter of taste, but always serve water with salty fish. We tested 3 tinned brands of surströmming - Seagull, Oskar and Mannerström’s own brand. The experts thought that Mannerström’s were a little mushy, while the rest of us felt that it’s a perfectly fine beginner ‘herring’. Starting with a mild variety applies just as much to fermented herring as it does to whisky. The favourite is, of course, the Seagull brand from 2009. The year is not stated on the tin but it has an expiry date of September 2010.
Sitting on a lush lawn with the courtyard of 18th century Mansion as a backdrop
Keeping the herring cold aids in
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Fermented herring is a unique Swedish product, which is produced mainly along the west coast. Fermented herring was eaten during the mid-1700´s, mostly in the central and northern parts of the country. It was a staple component of contemporary lunch boxes.
the development, assures one of the experts. ”I always have a jar in the fridge just in case I get peckish,” he adds. Fermented herring is a unique Swedish product, which is produced mainly along the west coast. Fermented herring was eaten during the mid-1700´s, mostly in the central and northern parts of the country. It was a staple component of contemporary lunch boxes. The raw material for fermented herring is a lean mature herring caught between May and June depending on the mating season. Access and quality can be affected by weather conditions. After spawning herring is considered too fat to be used. The herring is preserved by the fermentation process. The fish are heavily salted and kept in open vats and the fermentation takes place by autolysis, through their own enzymes. Along with bacteria, noxious acids such as butyric and acetic acids are produced. Hydrogen sulfide is formed and unfortunately it is this smell that is the most repugnant and discourages people from even trying the delicacy. The herring´s secondary fermentation process takes place in the tins. The Surström-
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mings excellence and status as a delicacy to its connoisseurs, faces strong opposition from those who strongly believe that the product should be prohibited. Our poor fish has even done the rounds of the EU in terms of whether or not they should be allowed. You may form your own opinion, but the fish is not rotten, as its detractors would have us believe. Apparently even the experts at the NFA do not believe that fermented herrings are rotten. They are a fermented product created by a carefully controlled and proven process. That being said, one doesn´t have to like everything. The unpleasant aroma disappears when the can is opened and aired. Be prepared for a really unusual and tasty eating experience. For surströmming enthusiasts a fermented herring feast is an absolute must when the summer draws to an end. And like all parties where food is the center of attraction, it is always a pleasant experience.
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Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 Art.nr. 79121 299 kr Alc.5 % vol. Producent: Lucien et André Brunel Parker: 93 poäng Importör: BraVin Sverige AB
www.bravin.se
Alkohol är beroendeframkallande 38
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Zlatan, Petter and Niel Text: C atarina Offe photo: Åke Eson Lindman/Catarina Offe
”I love the hotel lobbies, conference rooms, restaurants and beds,” exclaims the charismatic entrepreneur Petter A. Stordalen, with a sweeping gesture as he presents his latest hotel project, The Quality Hotel Friends in Arena City in Solna on the outskirts of Stockholm. Which is, of course, directly adjacent to the Friends Arena.
”I
don´t understand why people worry about having two new stadiums Stockholm,” he adds . ”Two stadiums is great and the market is big enough to cope with it, whatever the cost.” The hotel, at 94 meters high, has 25 floors and is adorned with thou-
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sands of round windows, which were inspired by Swedish football legend Zlatan Ibrahimović . Either way, there is a close affiliation to the 65,000 seat Friends Arena. The circle shape is repeat-
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The hotel, at 94 meters high, has 25 floors and is adorned with thousands of round windows, which were inspired by Swedish football legend Zlatan Ibrahimovic
ed everywhere. It is here that great moments and legends are created. At sporting events, primarily football, trade fairs, concerts, business conferences, meetings or the hotel’s own Event Room which, when it was transformed into a glittering Copacabana Carnival, seated 1,800 revelers. Of course all of these people have to eat and that´s where restaurant manager Neil Ponsonby comes in. He is responsible for every mouthful consumed in both the hotel and the stadium. Neil comes from Australia, more specifically Tasmania, which of course sounds very exotic indeed to us northerners. He served his apprenticeship under European chefs.
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Like many other young people who want to experience adventure he travelled abroad working in London, Stockholm and Switzerland and then back to Stockholm again. Somewhere along the way he met his Swedish wife. In the early ‘90s the market was rather depressed. It was no longer so easy to find a good job, so the couple took the opportunity to put down some roots in Australia’s tourist mecca, the surfers’ paradise of Bondi Beach in Sydney. After a few years they returned to Stockholm and Neil started up Terence Conran’s restaurant con-
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cept at Berns. It was very new and different and visitors didn´t warm to it readily. It may work in London but not here, many people thought. But parts of the concept still lives on, says Neil. That the restaurant determines the time for reservations is now more the rule rather than the exception and to have side orders on the menu is no longer a rarity. Neil moved on to the Hilton where he remained for more than ten years. ”But there came a time when I felt like an aggressive dinosaur,” Neil admits. “My staff came and went and the average age remained constantly around thirty-something, while I just got older and older. When they wanted to try new things, I said ‘We´ve done that before and it didn´t work !’” Neil realized it was time for a change.
The circle shape is repeated everywhere. It is here that great moments and legends are created.
Neil expressed an interest in the new Hotel Friends, went for an interview and the job was his. He presides over several kitchens that serve everything from hot dogs to gala dinners, where a staff of about 650 is needed for an event. And such a range of specialties: hot dogs and hamburger kiosks, buffets that range from small to gigantic , banquets and fine dining . Everything has to be staffed and someone is specifically responsible for seeing that the serving temperatures are correct. Right, but what´s needed most is someone to keep the spirits up. When host-
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When hosting an away team there is always something from the team’s home on the changing room menu
ing an away team there is always something from the team’s home on the changing room menu, be it oysters and salmon from Ireland or sauerkraut and schweinhaxe from Germany. In the hotel the First Moment restaurant, and On Top on the 25th floor, they offer Nordic classics with a modern international twist. On Top also houses a gin and bubble bar and the intimate balcony for two guests has its own separate menu and crockery and their personal window to look out of. The staff are convinced that the occasional marriage proposal has taken place here. The bar serves all the best gins available and all kinds of sparkling wine, with
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Dom Perignon by the glass being the most popular. Particularly when a balcony courtship is contemplated! The complex has yet to be finished. A shopping centre with three hundred stores is under construction and will bring with it a whole new clientele. In addition there are numerous companies, both Swedish and international, that are housed in the area and commuter trains run directly from Stockholm to Solna Station. This makes the Quality Hotel Friends a natural port of call when visiting the area.
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Birgit Nilsson Museum - an uplifting experience Text: Ove canemyr photo: Mickael Tannus
In Båstad, situated on the Bjäre peninsula in the beautiful region of southern Sweden called Skåne (Scania) is the farm that was home to the international opera singer Birgit Nilsson who was born in 1918. It has been in
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he original buildings have been restored and preserved with loving care. A movie theater has been added and a courtyard with a well-stocked café is now housed in one of the wings. It is interesting to note that the recipes for the biscuits are based on Birgit’s own. There is also the option to take a guided tour of the house and learn all about Birgit Nilsson’s childhood and upbringing. The Exhibition, entitled Moments and Tones, is a very well presented and informative experience. Using headphones and RFID (Radio Frequency ID technology) you can wander around at your own pace and listen to Birgit Nilsson’s own comments about her upbringing and education and view her own private collections, which include her magnificent gowns, and hear where and when they are used. You can also enjoy recordings of Birgit Nilsson´s fantastic voice in many of her most famous roles from both the Stockholm Opera and other performances from all
The original buildings have been restored and preserved with loving care. A movie theater has been added and a courtyard with a well-stocked café is now housed in one of the wings. to note that the recipes for the biscuits are based on Birgit’s own.
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The museum shop has books, movies and music to take home. Audio guides are available in English, Swedish and German.
over the world. It is easy to linger here. The sheer volume of information and items on show is absolutely stunning. One example is the earrings that Birgit Nilsson wore at a performance - one of them cracked when her tremendous voice reverberated around the salon. History is everywhere. There are the original letters and contracts from her long life in the world of opera. A visit here provides a fantastic opportunity for all generations to become better acquainted with one of our most famous and beloved Swedish international artists of all time. The museum shop has books, movies and music to take home. Audio guides are available in English, Swedish and German. Birgit Nilsson Museum is unfortunately only open from May to September, but those interested can visit www.birgitnilsson.com for information on opening hours, guided tours for groups and more.
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Nyhet! Nu på Systembolagets hyllor
Le Bertille Rosso di Montepulciano 2011 Artikel nummer 2380-01 Pris: 98 kr Importör: VINLUSEN AB
www.vinlusenab.se
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