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Marie-Claude Martini, Kosmetologia i Farmakologia Skóry, Warszawa 2007 ... promieniowania należy chronić skórę w największym stopniu oraz czy rozumieją.
Wolak A., Szakiel J. Department of Industrial Commodity Science Cracow University of Economics [email protected], [email protected]

CONSUMER RATINGS FOR SUNSCREEN COSMETICS Abstract: The aim of this work was to gain information about Cracow University of Economics students’ common beliefs related to the topic of sunbathing. Another important reason for conducting this research was to receive an answer to the question whether respondents are fully aware of the type of sun rays they should mostly protect their skin from and whether they understand the meaning of sun protection factor’s value.

Keywords: UV filters, factor, cosmetics, sun cream/lotion, skin protection

Introduction Sunscreen filters are relatively new ingredients in cosmetic products. A couple of years ago the subject of sunscreen filters in cosmetics would not even enter any discussion. Nowadays, all over the world shop shelves are filled with creams containing such filters while the sunscreen cosmetic production has become a large branch of cosmetic business. Each year, producers and importers extend their product offer, providing cosmetics (with UV filters) in the form of creams, oils, lotions, gels and balms, which can be used before or after sun exposure, as well as waterproof ones allowing consumers to bath in the sea or lake and be protected from the negative effect of sun rays. All of these products are given a special number (called: factor) depending on their level of protection. Sunscreen filters are highly useful and common tools used for skin protection. However, there are still many ambiguities in relation to them. People still think that one can take safe or unsafe sunbaths, while experts believe that safe sunbathing does not exist. Many people think that it is enough to purchase and use a series of sunscreen creams with different filter factors, but experts’ opinion is completely different: only cream with one specific factor should be used and that factor should have at least the value of 15 (or preferably higher). People also believe that all sunscreen filters can protect them from all sort of sun rays while the experts claim it is untrue – the type of filter

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strictly depends on ingredients used in the production process. The main goal of this work is to find answers to all of these and several more questions concerning sunbathing and sun related products.

1. Research purpose and methodology The aim of this work was to gain information about Cracow University of Economics students’ common beliefs related to the topic of sunbathing. A randomly chosen group of 220 students from the following departments: Commodity Science, Management, Economics & International Relations and Finance took part in the research. Another important reason for conducting this research was to receive an answer to the question whether respondents are fully aware of the type of sun rays they should mostly protect their skin from and whether they understand the meaning of sun protection factor’s value. Self-pigmentation plays an important role in the choice of the proper sunscreen product. Different types of skin pigmentation require different intensity of sun protection. The respondents were asked to choose one of the four photo types, which characterizes their skin best. Based on obtained results it was possible to determine which sun protection factor is most commonly used by the respondents during prolonged sun exposure in order to protect the skin. The research was conducted in the form of a survey. As a research tool the survey consisted of closed-ended questions as well as questions requiring rating. The research was a pilot study and is going to be continued in the future on a wider group of respondents. The main part of the survey consisted of six questions, including the ones checking the understanding of SPF (Sun Protection Factor) values and ability to apply a sunscreen which is adequate to individual skin pigmentation. The respondents were characterized based on socio-demographic factors such as: gender, age, level of study, department at which they study and the place of permanent residence. The survey was conducted on 220 randomly chosen individuals (59% of women and 41% of men) of different age, place of residence and level of education. The most significant age group participating in the research was of students between 20 and 25, they stood for 88% of all given answers. When it comes to departments, the figures go as follows: Commodity Science 67%, Management 8%, Economics & International Relations 15% and Finance 10%.

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2. Test Results. Presentation and analysis. Based on obtained results it has been observed that the majority of respondents (52%) does not pay attention to the type of sun radiation they should primarily protect their skin from (70% of women and 40% of men). Only 31% of respondents actually protect their skin from UVA rays, 15% from UVB and 2% from UVC (fig.1).

Fig. 1. Respondents’ opinion regarding types of sun radiation, % indications Source: own work

In order to assess the level of awareness among respondents it is vital to describe each type of radiation and their effects. In the process of cosmetic skin care, degeneration of connective tissue is a particularly adverse effect exacerbating already visible aging process. This is a result of impairment of the properties of collagen and elastin, which are substantially present in connective tissue. In a young person’s body these proteins are very well hydrated and show high flexibility. However, with the passage of time they undergo fibrosis, losing their elasticity and ability to resume the tissues’ shape after stretching or contracting. In consequence of this, the skin becomes dry, wrinkled and loses its firmness and that truly natural physiological degeneration of collagen and elastin can also be accelerated by external factors such as intensive exposure to ultraviolet rays (UV – Ultra Violet) [Mierzejewski, 2009].

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Depending on the wavelength three types of rays can be distinguished: UVA – with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, that pass through the glass, UVB – from 290 to 320 nm which pass through the quartz and UVC – below 290 nm. The latter penetrate very slightly into the skin and are practically absorbed by the stratum corneum. Ultraviolet radiation of UVC is absorbed by the ozone layer on the height of 35-40 km from the Earth. This type of radiation shows germicidal properties thanks to the ability of inhibiting DNA synthesis connected with creation of substances which are toxic for bacteria as a result of oxidation and by the means of inactivation of enzymes. Short-term UV radiation also results in conversion of ergosterol in vitamin D2 and of 7-hydrocholesterol in vitamin D3 [Malinka1999]. UVB radiation is involved in so called delayed tanning and it has strong erythematous properties. It can cause sunburn and dangerous damages in skin cells. One of the side effects of excessive exposure of the body to the solar radiation type UVA is phototoxicity – i.e. increased skin sensitivity to light in the presence of photosensitizers. UVA radiation has a direct impact on the process of tanning since it stimulates the biosynthesis of melanin. UVB radiation, increasing the intensity of the division of skin cells, accelerates the process of tanning in an indirect way. The synthesis of melanin in the skin caused by UVA is observed already after one hour exposure. That is why UVA radiation is well tolerated by the human body. The most harmful for skin are the effects of UVB radiation (erythema, changes in the elastin, collagen and genetic material). On analyzing the results of conducted research it has been observed that only 15% of respondents (17% of men and 12% of women) are fully aware of the dangers connected with UVB radiation. All of the abovementioned side effects can be prevented by using appropriate sunscreen cosmetics which contain special filters that are able to absorb phototoxic solar radiation [Malinka 1999]. UV filters can be divided into UVA and UVB, with a UVB group of filters prevailing on the market. These filters contain in their structure compounds with so called chromophore groups, which are able to absorb UV radiation. The filters used in cosmetics are actually a mix of several filters with different chemical structure. They penetrate upper layers of the epidermis and their action is based on absorption of sunlight energy which leads to the change in chemical structure of organic substance absorbing radiation, while the return to the previous form is accompanied by emission of harmless heat energy. The most popular on the market are filters which are derivatives of benzophenone, salicylic acid, p-aminobenzoic acid, 4-methoxycinnamate, terpene compounds and others. 4

It is very important to choose sunscreen product wisely. Basic information about the product’s protection strength can be found in the form of SPF (Sun Protection Factor) figure. Apparently, the respondents had a lot of difficulty in providing the correct meaning of SPF value. Only 44% of respondents (37% of women and 48% of men) claimed that the SPF value informs how much longer it is possible to be exposed to the sun rays, after use of the product, before erythema begins to appear in relation to unprotected skin. Another correct interpretation is as follows: the factor informs how much longer it is possible to stay in sun without the risk of sunburn, if the skin is protected by the given sunscreen product. Therefore, if erythema appears on unprotected skin after 20 minutes, then after use of the product with SPF 5 this time should be extended to 100 minutes. 56% of respondents believe that SPF tells how much smaller the risk of sunburn is after the use of the product. It is clearly an incorrect understanding of the term. A growing tendency of multiplication of the number of filters in the product has recently been observed. In just one product 2, 3 and even 4 filters with maximum absorption for different wavelength are combined together in order to:  Reduce the concentration of each filter,  Get coverage of the spectrum and obtain sufficient protective film for the whole range of harmful radiation, 

Increase the possibility of protection by combining the fat-soluble filters, introduced to the aqueous phase.

According to some dermatologists people should be warned that: “sunscreen filters are dangerous” because after their application erythema does not arise, which normally would be an alarming sign of skin irritation thus allowing the skin to be exposed to a big portion of UVA which, of course, can lead to very harmful effects. In reality UVB filters are now commonly used together with UVA filters, therefore these products do provide adequate protection, under one condition however which is an appropriate concentration of sunscreen filters [Marie-Claude Martini, 2007]. The results of another question posed in the survey are astonishing. The respondents were asked to indicate the value of sun protection factor they use during prolonged sun exposure for maximum protection of the skin. It turns out that 39% of respondents choose the factor’s value between 15 and 25. Only 7% of respondents use cosmetics with the highest protective value, which is over 55 (fig. 2).

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Fig. 2. Respondents’ opinions on the selection of SPF, % indications Source: own work

On analyzing the results it can be concluded that consumers are not fully aware of the fact that the higher factor value the more effective is the protection of the skin. It is puzzling that as many as 21% of respondents (26% of women and 19% of men) for maximum protection of the skin select products with sunscreen filters below 15, while it is officially recommended to use cosmetics with factor of at least 15. Products that protect the skin only against UVB radiation allow you to stay in the sun much longer but they also pose a greater threat of exposure to harmful UVA rays. During the selection of sunscreen product the consumer should consider his or her own skin pigmentation. Depending on what phototype the person represents, it is necessary to use more or less intense sun protection. In the survey we asked the respondents to look at the most common description of four basic skin phototypes in order to determine their own type of pigmentation (fig. 3).

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Fig. 3. Respondents’ opinions regarding the phototypes characterizing their skin, % indications Source: own work

People with porcelain white skin, freckles, red or pale blond hair, blue or grey eyes, whose skin always burns and rarely tans belong to phototype I, sometimes referred to as Celtic. Among the respondents 8% of people described this phototype as theirs. Such people should use SPF +35 in the first days of sun exposure. The second phototype also called European – fair, is characteristic for people with fair skin, blond hair, green, grey or brown eyes, who can tan lightly with repeated exposure to the sun but still the risk of sunburn is very high for that type. 36% of respondents chose that type as the best description of their skin pigmentation. Here the recommended sun protection factor is +25. The third phototype (European – dark) characterizes the skin which is still white but a bit darker, the hair color varies from dark blond to brown and the risk of sunburn is relatively small. The majority of respondents (46%) selected exactly this phototype. Recommended sun protection factor to be used in case of such phototype is +16. The last phototype – Mediterranean one, characterizes rather brown skin, brown or black hair and eyes. Such skin rarely burns. Here, in the first days of sun exposure it is recommended to use SPF 10. In the question whether the individual skin pigmentation depends on the sunscreen product selection 67% of respondents said ‘yes’ (48% of women, 81% of men). The remainder 33% (52% of women and 19% of men) said ‘no’.

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Fig. 4 presents the relation between the respondent’s phototype and the SPF chosen for maximum protection of the skin. It turns out that, from among the people, who choose SPF 15-25, 48% are actually phototype II and 41% phototype III. The respondents, who defined their skin pigmentation as the Celtic one usually choose SPF 55 or higher (it is 33% of the people who choose this highest protection level).

Fig. 4. Relation of SPF selection to the respondents’ skin pigmentation, % indications Source: own work

Under the influence of prolonged sunlight combined with drying effects of wind and changing weather conditions, some degenerative changes within the connective tissue in the dermis can be observed. Abnormal epidermal keratinization as a result of disorders in repair processes may give rise to development of cancer [Mierzejewski 2008]. Generally, we can outline the following reactions of healthy skin: solar erythema, altered pigmentation and degeneration of the dermis and epidermis. Other changes in the form of various types of skin cancer are fortunately rare and are caused by both UVB and UVA radiation. Skin cancer develops more easily in people with light skin phototype and in most cases it is located in the area directly exposed to the sun. There are two types of skin cancer: -

Basal cell carcinoma which is a malignant tumor, growing slowly and locally only. It can be a result of a brief and infrequent solar exposure. Mostly, it occurs on the trunk and shoulders and on the tanned area of the body.

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Squamous cell carcinoma is a malignant and severe tumor. It grows rapidly and can spread to other parts of the body. It develops as a result of the cumulative effect of the sun radiation and grows mainly on hands and face.

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Malignant melanoma is a consequence of numerous, frequent sun exposures or even “sunburns” sustained in childhood, adolescence or adulthood. Malignant melanoma is a kind of a tumor, which develops at the dermal-epidermal border and is often colored, though not necessarily at the beginning. It can be very dangerous since it develops really deep [Marie-Claude Martini, 2007].

Conclusions

Based on obtained results of the survey conducted among the students of Cracow University of Economics regarding their knowledge and awareness of sunbathing it can be concluded that only 46% of respondents are fully aware of the necessity of skin protection against negative effects of UVA and UVB radiation. UVA radiation is one of the main cause of phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions as well as processes of skin photo-aging. In addition, it causes cross-linking of fibrous proteins and damages blood vessels, since it reaches the deep layers of dermis. In normal doses it does not cause irritation or inflammation of the skin. UVB radiation induces cumulative photo-aging effects and can lead to hyperkeratosis of the epidermis causing inflammation of the skin. According to the research, only 44% of respondents (37% of women and 48% of men) were able to correctly interpret the sun protection factor value. In addition, 67% of respondents said that their own skin pigmentation was an important aspect taken into consideration while selecting an adequate sunscreen filter. The negative effects of solar radiation are cumulated. Defensive mechanisms of the skin and the body’s ability to repair damage caused by UV radiation are weakened with age. Even in young and healthy body they can be insufficient, especially after intensive and prolonged exposure to the sun of a person with a very fair skin color. That is why it is extremely important to use sunscreen protection in the form of sunscreen cosmetic products. Then the beneficial effects of the sun will allow to fully enjoy the summer, surrounding nature, it will improve the mood and a sense of general well-being.

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References Puznanowska-Tarasiewicz H., Wilczewska A., Podstawy Chemii Kosmetycznej, Białystok 2007 Malinka W., Zarys Chemii Kosmetycznej, Wrocław 1999 Marie-Claude Martini, Kosmetologia i Farmakologia Skóry, Warszawa 2007 Mierzejewski J., Elementy Dermatologii Kosmetycznej, Radom 2008 Wanat T., Atrybuty produktu a konstruowanie preferencji przez nabywców, Poznań 2010 Włudyka B., Słońce to życie...,ale ostrożnie, AURA 8/2010 Gibka J., Bezpieczne korzystanie ze słońca, AURA 7/2004

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OCENA KONSUMENCKA KOSMETYKÓW PROMIENIOCHRONNYCH Streszczenie: Celem pracy było uzyskanie informacji o obecnie panujących przekonaniach wśród studentów Uniwersytetu Ekonomicznego w Krakowie na temat wiedzy z zakresu opalania. Dodatkowo istotnym założeniem przeprowadzonej analizy było uzyskanie odpowiedzi na pytanie czy respondenci zdają sobie sprawę, przed którym rodzajem promieniowania należy chronić skórę w największym stopniu oraz czy rozumieją znaczenie wartości współczynnika protekcji słonecznej. Słowa kluczowe: filtry UV, współczynnik, kosmetyki, krem/balsam do opalania, ochrona skóry

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