Ghostly Pubs - Bridgend Bites

GhostlyofPubs Porthcawl The

Golden Coast of Southern Wales

Porthcawl, on Southern Wales’ ‘Golden Coast’ is dotted with beautiful little inns and pubs. All of them have a fascinating heritage, including stories of ghosts and other strange happenings. Many of the stories take you back to distant times when pirates sailed the seas and smugglers plied their illegal trade off the treacherous coast. Others involve the ancient ships captains and crews who risked their lives to bring us the booty of the exotic east or of those in pursuit of industrial wealth with legends that go back centuries into the distant past. Some inns can even claim to have had an effect on world immigration as locals left and established new communities in such diverse areas as Argentina, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the USA. Explore the ‘Ghostly Pubs of Porthcawl’ travelling close to the coast at ancient inns with spectacular views and mix with the locals, whose memories and stories could fill a hundred libraries. Hayley Williams (writer) Hayley Williams is a local writer with a fascination for the controversial subject of ghosts, spirits and the afterlife. Hayley chose to investigate the unusual occurrences on her own doorstep and found that her home town of Porthcawl has quite a reputation for ghostly apparitions and like many other towns and villages these are accompanied by fascinating tales and legends as well as a colourful history.

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Contents Introduction Nottage The Rose and Crown The Farmers Arms The Swan Porthcawl The Royal Oak, John Street The Salthouse on the Square New Road Porthcawl The General Picton The Queens The New Brogden Newton The Jolly Sailor Other sites with ghostly connections References Acknowledgements

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Based on ‘The History and Haunting of Porthcawl’ By Hayley Williams

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www.visitbridgend.com

Nottage Legend suggests that Vikings and Irish Pirates were possibly the first inhabitants of secluded Nottage. They left reminders of their dominance by leaving names such as Tusker, the flat rock out at sea, and Sker. Other occupants known to have settled in the area were the Beaker people who are understood to have come from Europe during the Bronze Age, the Celts from the mountains of Switzerland, Italy and Austria, and the Romans who stayed for 400 years.

Nottage Cottage

The village was once known as Y Dre Newydd yn Notais which was mentioned in 16th century documents. At one time the village housed five Inns. The New Moon (now a cottage opposite the village store) was the first Inn to be established to sell ale. The Farmers Arms followed, with the Lamb Inn (demolished in 1961 and replaced by Garden Cottage), The Swan Inn, and The Rose and Crown Inn.

The Rose and Crown Rose Cottage and Crown Cottage once occupied the site of this charming old inn. There were some remains of the original Rose cottage in the beer garden, although it is not clear who actually lived there. Sadly time has now eroded them. Crown cottage, however, was associated with the Burnell family; upstanding citizens of the community. When the Rose and Crown was finally established as one building, it became the last ale house to open in the area.

The Ghosts of The Rose and Crown The Rose and Crown has eight rooms, and because it was and still is a hotel and restaurant and due to the age and history of the building, many unsuspecting visitors have stated that they have encountered ghostly The Rose and Crown happenings while others have suggested strange events at the dead of night as well as the feeling of being watched. The spirit of a little boy is known to mischievously roam around the building, making noises and sending objects crashing to the floor. The old clock behind the bar fell to the floor on one occasion yet there was no one in that area. Could this have been the little boy, or just a coincidence of time? The resident dog refuses to venture upstairs as a ghostly canine is thought to roam the upper floors while the spectral image of a person with piercing eyes has been seen staring out of an upstairs window at the dead of night. The cellar also seems to attract ghostly activity, with objects vanishing and later being found in different places. A past employee reported seeing the image of a lady wearing an apron and sporting her hair in a tight bun. The Rose and Crown does seem to live up to its reputation as a magnet for ghosts.

The Rose and Crown is situated opposite what was once an ancient graveyard with a chapel nearby. The old Celtic village green was given to the community in 1983 by the owners of Nottage Court, specifically for public use.

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The Farmers Arms No one knows for sure, when this quaint old public house was actually built, but it has been suggested that the first part could date as far back as the 18th century. The second part containing the lounge area was erected during the 19th century. It was so named due to the local agricultural community.

The Farmers Arms

The New Moon was the first Inn to be built in the centre of Nottage, but this is now just a distant memory, leaving the Grade II listed Farmers Arms to claim the title of the oldest surviving public house left in the village. The inn retains its original outward look and still displays many traditional features inside. The restaurant for example was once a two tiered hay barn, and the bar was in a small semi-circular area confined to the far corner on the right-hand side of the room.

The eerie sound of a woman shouting has been distinctly heard in the kitchen section while kitchen utensils have a habit of mysteriously moving by themselves later turning up elsewhere, and plunging staff into confusion. One of the past landlords became aware of an invisible presence as he noticed that objects from the bar would move in mysterious ways after closing time and glasses were thrown off the shelves. Since he introduced his own system of saying ‘goodnight’ to this unseen guest, this problem was rectified.

The lounge area was constructed in the 19th century and was listed as one of many conference places for the local council in a document from 1843. This was because the Chapel Vestry had no other base for meetings to take place.

The Ghosts of the Farmers Arms As the oldest pub in Nottage, it therefore comes as no surprise to find that the Farmers Arms plays host to a number of customers of the ghostly kind! The image of a man wearing a cap has been seen regularly sitting on a stool in the far corner of the bar. His ghostly image seems to enjoy drinking his ale from a pewter-type tankard, unaware of the modern activity around him. A black dog with a limp seems happy to accompany his master. A man wearing a tall black hat has also been seen and heard in the bar area.

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The Swan The Swan was originally split into two separate sections and dates back to the 19th century. Customers would be compelled to walk outdoors and back in again to the lounge area to visit the toilets. Today, the building is one, and its characteristics still The Swan display the beauty of its original design, with its interior walls exposing its distant past. It was built in the garden of an old cottage as a beer retailing premises. But, whether it was named after the local Swan family, who owned a great proportion of the local land or after the graceful swan itself, is unclear.

The Ghosts of The Swan The Swan seems to be a haven for ghosts! Members of the staff have often reported the feeling of 'never being alone', even when the building is empty. The distinct noise of someone walking around in the upper living quarters and descending down wooden stairs has also been heard, only to discover that no physical body is present. A lady wearing a black dress has been seen walking through the bar area and into the ladies toilets, only to vanish into thin air. The ladies toilets has always been known to harbour cold spots and the toilets have even been known to flush on their own accord!

Porthcawl Porthcawl is a modern seaside town neatly sandwiched between the big cities of Cardiff and Swansea. The name Porthcawl dates back as far as 1628 from a survey of Pembroke Manor, and was originally called Port Call. It was mainly developed during James Brogden the Victorian era as a town which had previously been occupied by agricultural industries. In 1825, an Act of Parliament referred to the area as Pwll Cawl Bay. James and Mary Caroline Brogden were responsible for most of the buildings throughout Porthcawl, and they left reminders of their presence in the street names. Mary Street was associated with Mary Caroline, and John Street was named after James’ father John, who was the head of the family firm, John Brogden & Sons of Sale (Manchester). Although many have sadly been demolished in the name of ‘progress’, some of the original features of these elegant buildings are still visible throughout John Street today. During the Victorian era, Porthcawl became a popular destination for visitors for coastline and beaches. This opened the way for hotels, Inns and lodging houses to be erected to cater for the demand.

The staff have also stated that they have been touched on the shoulder in the cellar yet nobody else is present. Past landlords have also alarmingly discovered that items have been moved around overnight. The outside window above the ladies toilet is false, as there is no room beyond it. Yet a lady's face has been seen peering out from behind the empty window. Despite its ghostly visitors it comes as no surprise that the Swan is still a popular public house.

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Porthcawl Promenade

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The Royal Oak John Street

The Salthouse on The Square

The Royal Oak is first mentioned in a survey by Sir Cyril Fox in 1846. In it he states that the building was a Beer House owned and occupied by John Williams who lived in the building until his death in 1878 at the age of 95, being the oldest person in the parish.

The Salthouse on the Square was originally called The Ship and Castle and is first mentioned on a tithe map of 1846. However, the stonework in the cellar suggests that it dates back to an earlier time.

The inn has altered in appearance over the years, as like The Swan, the bar area and lounge were originally separate rooms, with no linking archway. The large lounge was originally smaller in size, but was extended to accommodate an increasing number of customers. The slates on the roof indicate the length of the added space. The original door leading into the bar faced outwards onto South Road, and not where it is today. Behind the fireplace is a stone staircase which was once visible in the bar area.

The Ghosts of The Royal Oak With such a substantial history it comes as no surprise that the Royal Oak also has a list of ghostly happenings. The figure of a lady wearing black has been seen in the lounge on a number of occasions, only to disappear into thin air. The bar area is also known to have sudden cold spots, and visitors have reported the feeling of a person standing behind them, only to find that nobody is actually there. Staff have been puzzled by an eerie atmosphere during the stillness of the night when customers have left. With its ghostly visitors and unnatural temperature changes, it seems that the Royal Oak holds many mysteries.

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Its structure, along with its The Salthouse On The Square name, has altered throughout the years with extensions built to accommodate more modern needs. It had a decorative and unusual bar which was once a small boat transported from Devon and painted in vibrant colours to resemble a lifeboat. It changed its name to the Lifeboat Inn in August 1989. In the old Cellar are the remains of a smuggler’s tunnel used to transport small barrels of brandy from ships docking in the nearby harbour. Some of the tunnel collapsed when foundations were dug out during the construction of the neighbouring Holiday Home. A circular iron hook was still embedded in the wall of the old cellar which could indicate the use of ropes to haul in the loot.

The Ghosts of The Salthouse on the Square The Salthouse on the Square has witnessed history in the making as it was built close to the town’s busy harbour. The ghostly image of a man with a beard has been seen in the bar area during the dead of night, accompanied by strange sounds and the eerie sound of footsteps has been heard from the stairs and above floors after closing time, when nobody is actually there. The forlorn figure of a sailor has been witnessed crouching in the corner of the old cellar and a small boy with torn clothing and a dirty complexion has been seen standing beside the wall by the main bar.

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New Road Porthcawl

The Ghosts of The General Picton

New Road was constructed in 1862 and by the end of the 19th century accommodated eleven public houses: the Carpenters Arms which became a florist shop, the Masons Arms which was once a shop then later a Post Office, the White Lion which adjoined the shop, the Greyhound on the corner of Mackworth Road which stood empty for many years before being converted into a cottage, the Mackworth Inn which became a cottage, the Brogden Hotel, Albion Inn which is now called Albion Cottage, the Queens Hotel, the General Picton and The Prince of Wales.

The General Picton The General Picton was named after the Welsh Lieutenant General Sir Thomas Picton of Pembrokeshire and is situated opposite Griffin Park. Its origins can be traced back to 1864 when Mr. Brogden developed the northern side of New Road and converted a farm into an ale house which then opened in 1869. The ‘Picton’ was transformed over the years and in 1929, petrol pumps were introduced in the car park so that customers could refuel their vehicles. The General Picton became a popular ‘watering hole’ for visitors to the town, including the Director of the famous food company, Heinz. He was an American millionaire called Dennis Phillips who frequently stayed at the Seabank Hotel on the promenade, but spent much of his time socialising in the General Picton. He loved the place so much that when he died he had arranged for his ashes to be buried under a blackcurrant bush at the rear of the pub. During the war, Porthcawl’s first indoor bowling green which opened in 1938 at the Picton, became a vital distraction for Allied for troops, who were billeted here, camping out on the green.

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Like many of the pubs in this ancient town, there are stories of ghostly visions. A Little girl in Victorian dress has been seen in the ladies toilets. She came through the wall only to vanish again through another wall. Her hair was long and tangled, and her face was The General Picton expressionless. The image of a man wearing a Stetson hat has been seen on a few occasions standing in the back room of the pub. He was dressed in old fashioned clothing and gazes at customers with a pleasant look on his face before mysteriously disappearing.

General Picton

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The Queens Hotel

The Brogden Hotel

The Queens Hotel was built and completed around 1869 and was once used as a changing facility for the players of Porthcawl Rugby Club. The Landlord, was responsible for buying and distributing the rugby shirts for the team as well as providing two rooms with zinc baths for the players to change after each match.

The Brogden Hotel was built by 1876 on the northern side of New Road. Early owners were William Jones who lived in the building, followed by Ann Rees who took over during the 1880s. She died on the premises in September 1886.

The Royal Body Guards to the exiled Dutch Queen Wilhelmina, who wore distinct navy and white uniforms, visited the Queens Hotel during World War II. The 1950’s film star, David Niven a lieutenant-colonel at that time visited the Queens Hotel too. With its colourful mixture of past visitors, the Queens still proudly provides a service within the community of Porthcawl.

The Ghosts of the Queens Hotel Naturally the Queens also has its fair share of strange events. Footsteps have been heard on a regular basis, parading up and down the staircase and a lady, dressed in Victorian clothing, has been spotted towards the back of the hotel. A man with white hair has been seen sitting at the bar in the back room enjoying a pint of beer and a man wearing a black bowler hat who was the owner of a nearby shop sits in the corner of the bar area. He seems to be uttering the word “Thoms”.

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David Jones is recognized as The Brogden Hotel the publican on the 1891 census, with Margaret Ann Vaughan in 1895 and by 1906, John Preece was living there although Rees Jenkins is also named as the building’s owner between 1906 and 1920 when Edward Arthur Mayo took over the establishment.

The Ghosts of the Brogden Hotel With such a diverse history of ownership, the Brogden retains a chequered and colourful past. A good natured lady has been seen around the area of the mirror and clock and the image of Mary Brogden herself has been seen at the foot of the stairs and around the same mirror. She seems to particularly like to make her presence known during any party time. Electrical equipment within the Brogden has also been known to spring into action for no apparent reason, especially around the time of last orders. Light bulbs have also been known to explode around this time of night for no apparent reason.

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Newton

The Ghosts of the Jolly Sailor

At the other extreme of the town is the ancient village of Newton which was the areas first and natural port discovered by the Romans. It was this closeness to the sea that made it a major smuggler’s haunt. Newton dates back to Norman times and was an active creek by 1501 and a port by 1601, when two tons of iron were transported from Newton to Somerset on a vessel called Trynitite of Aberthaw. The port also attracted smugglers, who offloaded their cargo at Newton Weir. The Churchyard contains the remains of people who drowned in tragic accidents by falling prey to the treacherous waters of Newton Point. An outbreak of cholera began to circulate throughout Newton in 1866 due to the poor sanitation of the area. This unfortunately spread rapidly throughout Porthcawl, causing many deaths.

The Jolly Sailor In 1818, the Jolly Sailor became Newton’s first licensed premises as a brew house. The establishment instantly became the smugglers headquarters and as the Lords of the Manors had dealings with them by exacting dues on cargos brought from Newton Weir this illegal trade was ignored. The smugglers are thought to have dug a tunnel from Newton Port which travelled under the local Church and directly into the Jolly Sailor’s cellar. When the pub underwent renovations, in more recent times, the entrance to the tunnel was discovered, although never opened. It now lies hidden behind a brick wall, longing to be explored. The second part to the lounge area was once a cottage, which was purchased in later years and added to the public house creating the pub that we know today.

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The Jolly Sailor has been associated with ghostly activity for many years. A burly sailor with rosy cheeks and a wide grin has been seen in the lounge area. He appears to be holding a drink, which could cause bewildered witnesses to retreat at pace from the premises.

The Jolly Sailor

A distressed lady holding a baby has been seen on a number of occasions in the corner of the room while the spooky vision of a lady has been seen rushing at speed through the lounge, only to disappear at the blink of an eye. From the cellar of the Jolly Sailor have been heard the distinct sound of rolling barrels reported by both past and present staff along with unexplained drafts of cold air creating an eerie atmosphere.

St Johns Church

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Other Interesting Ghostly sites in and around Porthcawl

St. David’s Well

Moor Lane

It is said that he drank some water from the well, and declared it to be of sacred ground, proclaiming that the St David’s Well water had important healing powers. The well gets its name from the ancient dell of Dewiscombe (David’s valley) mentioned in a 12th Century grant by William, Earl of Gloucester to Richard of Cardiff from Novum Villiam in Margan. An inscription on a stone was erected in 1903, which stands beside the well.

This peaceful lane accommodates some notable landmarks which add to its fascinating history which has been documented on maps since the 16th century. There are however, legends that clearly refer to its earlier times of significance. A section of Nottage Court wall pours curiosity over the lane’s original path, as it is directly in line with the Lane, speculating that it was once part of the property. The wall was then divided to allow horse drawn vehicles of the Dyffryn-Llynfi tramway access to transport coal and iron to PWLL CAWL BAY.

Nottage Halt

Saint David’s Well (Ffynnon Dewi in Welsh) takes its name from our Patron Saint, who is rumoured to have visited the site in the 6th Century.

Saint David’s well has its own unique tale of a ghostly apparition. The misty, but serene face of a little girl, peering up from the depths of the water at dusk has been seen on a number of occasions. It is not known who she was, but legend maintains that she drowned in a tragic accident.

Built in 1897, this was once a sub-station to the main Porthcawl train station and was nicknamed ‘Golfer’s Halt’ due to the golfers that would leave the train and use horse-drawn carriages to reach one of the many courses along the coast.

The Rhyll

The Porthcawl train line was discontinued in 1964 resulting in the Halt and its track being demolished. However, some track is still vaguely visible throughout various parts of Nottage, and the remains of Nottage Halt platform can also be seen on the left hand side towards the main entrance of Moor Lane.

The Rhyll was a valley just below Saint David’s well which once consisted of a stream and lake which sank through the cracks which formed in the limestone rock. This formed an underground stream, which extended down to the wilderness marshland on the right hand side of this silent lane.

The loneliness of this platform paints an empty picture of a once popular sub-station and adds to the ghostly speculation of the area. The noise of an invisible steam train travelling to the seaside town can still be heard chuffing to a halt at its evaporated destination. It is considered to be quite lucky to hear the ghost trains travelling along this awesome lane. One person alarmingly caught a glimpse of the train travelling along its imaginary railway line before it disappeared into thin air.

The river once flowed down the valley and into an inlet of the sea, which drew up as far as what is now known as NewtonNottage roundabout. The Rhyll is marked by a line of visible trees along Moor Lane.

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The valley has an air of tranquility about it. But its stillness portrays an atmosphere of mystery. The trees whisper eerily in the breeze, giving unsuspecting visitors the feeling of being watched.

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Cuckoo Bridge This beautiful stone bridge was commissioned by Royal Approval under an Act of Parliament on June 10th 1825. Its construction began immediately, and the bridge was opened in 1828 to be used as a tramway for horsedrawn carriages. Cuckoo Bridge

The bridge was later widened to make way for a second line, but the second line never materialized. In 1861, a new track was constructed to accommodate steam trains, and the tramway made way for railway tracks. The once busy bridge is now left to nature, looking down on passing visitors with the memories of its glory days now long gone.

Since its construction, it has carried a variety of ghostly tales. The noise of horses hooves, thundering across the bridge have been heard on a few occasions, and the misty vision of a headless horseman has been reported galloping across. Legend says that it is extremely unlucky to make a sound whilst passing under the bridge. This may be a myth which cannot be proven, but would any moderate person dare to disobey what could be deemed as a mysterious curse? A mystery hitchhiker, dressed in old-fashioned clothing seems eager to accept a lift from unsuspecting drivers. He has been seen standing by the bridge on a number of occasions before jumping into the backseat of the passing vehicle. However, he only travels a few yards in the vehicle before disappearing.

St Johns Church The origins of this ancient building are unknown, but it has been suggested that the founder was Richard de Cardiff, with William, Earl of Gloucester being responsible for its construction and provision of funds. Norman knights have also been linked with the Church under the Order of St. John of Jerusalem with the De Sanford family as its founders around the end of the 12th century

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and into the early 13th century. With this theory in mind, William, Earl of Gloucester, witnessed an early Margam Charter around 1147 – 1183. The Lords from the Pembroke, Herbert, and Lougher manors are mentioned in connection with the Church over the next few centuries, with examples of work from 13th, 14th and 15th St Johns Church centuries relating to the south porch, although little other documentation remains. During 15th century many parts of the Church were rebuilt as recorded by Mr. G E Halliday. These include the Nave, the Tower, the west doorway and the Chancel. Other features such as the stained glass windows and the pulpit were rebuilt during the Victorian era. The remains of Richard Lougher, who died in 1701 along with other Lords of Tythegstone, occupy the tombstones around the floor of the Chancel.

The Churchyard Places of burial usually create an atmosphere of peace, and St. John’s churchyard is no exception, although people of importance to the area of Porthcawl are buried within the church itself. Among the resting places for past citizens are the bodies of three young boys from a Dutch-West Indian ship called Planters Welvaart who were buried in the cemetery on 3rd June 1770.This produces a sad picture of life in the treacherous waters of Newton port. The graveyard was a popular burial place within the parish of Newton Nottage, and by 1932 was declared full to capacity. A new municipal cemetery was opened on 23rd July 1934.

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Ghosts of the Churchyard The stillness of any silent graveyard can paint an eerie picture and send shivers down the spines of unsuspecting visitors. St. John’s churchyard seems to house a plethora of ghostly offerings. The invisible ‘Lich’ is said to stretch its icy fingers onto unsuspecting visitor’s shoulders, sending them into a world of panic. Nobody knows what or who this invisible force is, but it seems determined to make its presence known in the empty churchyard. The seemingly solid image of a young lady wearing a grey dress has been seen on a number of occasions, roaming the graveyard as if she is searching for something. The chilling effigy of a man hanging from the large tree at the back of the graveyard has been seen over many years. Tradition states that this horrific image is only seen during the darkness of Halloween. The image of a young boy running straight through gravestones has been seen on a number of occasions. His appearance is described as being dirty, with scruffy hair and torn clothes. Legend maintains that a man from the early 19th century was drinking cwrw da (which was a strong intoxicating ale brewed locally during the 1800s) in one of Newton’s public houses, only to witness a phantom funeral cortege proceeding past him with the image of a man dressed in red huntsman’s attire leading on horseback seemingly on its way to the churchyard for the unfortunate victim’s burial. Instead, the procession passed him by before mysteriously disappearing.

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References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Buildings of Special Architectural Interest by CADW Porthcawl, Newton and Nottage by Alun Morgan Around Porthcawl, Newton and Nottage by Keith Morgan Newton Nottage and Porthcawl by Leonard S Hughes Hunts and Company Directory and Topography 1849 Cardiff and District Directory 1899 Worralls Directory 1875 Kelly's Directory of South Wales Central Glamorgan Gazette on microfilm at Coed Pare Library, Bridgend 10. Legends of Porthcawl and the Glamorgan Coast by Alun Morgan

Acknowledgements Chris Shaw Gaynor Shaw Peter Stallard Scott Davies Leri Shaw Andrew Williams Anthony Cherry Jon James Tracey Walmsley Annwyn Munford and to all Landlords and Landladies Appreciations to the following for information: Giles James & Moor Lane Ghosts Rhys Owen Pam King & Farmers Arms Ghosts Paula Workman Sheena John & Swan Ghosts Helen Thomas Chris Royal Oak Ghosts Alan Martin Salthouse on the Square Ghosts Mair Harrys General Picton History Peggy Bryant Queens History Louise Lawrence Jolly Sailor Ghost Neil Bennett New Brogden & St. John’s Churchyard Ghosts

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