How to make the perfect plane

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Meet the raggare This way for quiffs, 50s diners, Buddy Holly – and a funeral hearse

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M u n c h

Funny ha-ha? The Klovn creators on why Danes like their comedy controversial

Italian job We follow Rihanna and Richard Burton to the Ligurian coast

By Norwegian August 2013 Issue 08

Free plane o n page 3 4!

How to make the perfect plane We head inside the Boeing factory to see how they build the 787 Dreamliner

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Velkommen A new era has begun Norwegian’s first 787 Dreamliner is a milestone in the company’s history, says CEO Bjørn Kjos ecently, we welcomed the latest addition to our fleet: our very first 787 Dreamliner. I know that this is something both you, our customers, and we at Norwegian have been looking forward to for a long time. This marks a major milestone in our company’s history and is an important step towards strengthening our position in the market to ensure competitiveness in the future. The 787 Dreamliner will operate on our long-haul routes, and is the most modern and technologically advanced longhaul aircraft in production today. It has many features that I am sure our passengers will appreciate. The pressure in the cabin is set to simulate a lower altitude than conventional planes, which in turn reduces typical jetlag symptoms such as headaches and muscle pain. The aircraft is also a lot less noisy; in fact, the noise footprint of the Dreamliner is 60 per

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We won!

SCANPIX

Norwegian voted Europe’s best low-cost carrier In June, Norwegian was voted Europe’s low-cost carrier of the year at the SkyTrax World Airline Awards, the world’s most prestigious airline awards. norwegian.com

cent smaller than those of today’s similarly sized airplanes. In addition, the aircraft is composed of lightweight composites and uses 20 per cent less fuel than today’s similarly sized aircraft. Our goal is to operate the most environmentally friendly and cost-efficient fleet and this is something the Dreamliner will significantly contribute towards. It is now 11 years since we came up with the vision that nobody should have to choose between reasonable flights and comfortable flights. It is fantastic that so many passengers have joined us and taken part in our vision by flying with us around the Nordics, Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, and now also to Asia and the US. All in all, we have eight Dreamliners on order, which means this is just the beginning. We can’t wait to announce our new destinations and hope that you are just as excited as us! We hope to see you on board the Dreamliner soon!

Time to Connect See this box and go further with Norwegian’s onboard WiFi Norwegian offers free WiFi on more than 70 per cent of its flights. When you see this Connect box, it will tell you where you can go to explore more about our stories online, whether it’s a Twitter feed, a website or more information on our destinations. How to log in on board 1 Activate your WiFi device at an altitude of 10,000 feet or more. 2 Connect to the wireless network “Norwegian Internet Access”. NB If you are using a smartphone or a tablet, you will have to open a browser window to log in. 3 It’s as easy as that! You can now surf, chat or work until we commence our approach.

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Contributors Hans Seeberg

Not all our paper plane prototypes were as successful as the one on p34

When asked for his strangest experience on a plane, Hans, who wrote our raggare story (p66), says he once saw a larger-than-life ’80s rock icon behave badly at 35,000ft. When asked to reveal which global pop icon caused hell onboard, our principled reporter replied: “I’d do anything for N by Norwegian (but I won’t do that).”

Editorial & art Editor Toby Skinner [email protected] Deputy Editor Matthew Lee [email protected] Art Director Rickard Westin [email protected] Designers Tia Grazette, Matt Dykzeul Sub-Editor Omer Ali Picture Editor Julia Holmes Production Controller Ana Vazquez Editor-in-chief Stine Steffensen Børke Norwegian editors Kine Bergseth,

Lise-Lene Storås, Gro Kveldro Bruksås, Britt Skjeppestad Advertising Publisher Pär Svälas [email protected] Sales Team Oliver Gateley, Johanna Strand, Nils Rosvall Sales recruitment [email protected] Advertising Tel +44 (0)20 7613 6964, Fax +44 (0)20 7613 6985 Advertising email [email protected]

Per Kårehed

Peter Sørensen

The Gothenbergbased photographer took on our raggare story (p66) not expecting he’d end up following a hearse. His strangest flying experience almost saw his plane turned into a funerary vehicle – on a trip to Argentina he became violently ill but he was saved due to “miracles performed by two female cabin crew”. Intriguing.

If Klovn characters Casper and Frank ever boarded a flight together it would almost certainly end in an international incident. But the man who photographed the comedians in his hometown of Copenhagen (p38) has never had a weird inflight experience himself. Like, for example, 185 passengers throwing paper planes (p34).

karehed.com

petersorensen.net

Hero-in-chief Edvard Munch Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke Executive Creative Director Michael Keating Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal Publishing Director Simon Leslie N is published on behalf of Norwegian by Ink, 141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE Editorial Tel +44 (0)20 7613 3308, Email [email protected], ink-global. com, goferslogistics.com

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in N are not necessarily those of Norwegian, and Norwegian does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of Norwegian or use of the Norwegian logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, or its products or services by Norwegian.

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PHOTO: CHRIS HOLTER AD: SLETTEN & ØSTVOLD

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noted/

What’s on our minds

We approve

Jim from The Office: funny, but a sub-par paper plane designer

Budapest being hip

GE T T Y

The Buddha-Bar Hotel in Budapest is set in the 100-year-old Klotild Palace, a stunning building right on Budapest’s iconic Váci utca shopping street. Expect Asian-colonial designs, chic lounge bars and a spa with saunas, steam rooms and hot baths. buddhabarhotelbuda pest.com

As with most things in life, there’s more to know about paper aeroplanes than you’ve probably ever considered. On YouTube, you can see paper plane designer John Collins explain – in dizzying detail – the design for his record-breaking creation, which flew 69.14m last year (a lot of it is to do with the texture of the paper). Or you can watch the Red Bull Paper Wings contest from 2012 (redbullpaperwings.com) and see Lebanese Elie Chemaly’s 10.68-second flight, the competition’s longest air time. We tested a lot of planes – from F15 Eagle Jet Fighters to origami boomerangs and planes called Fury (see aerogami.com) – but found the one explained on page 34 to have the best combination of easy construction and smooth flying. We called it the n14 – and it’s been annoying our colleagues ever since. Toby Skinner, Editor

Reactions ⁄ Ways to treat the Little Mermaid

Harry Hole being alive At the end of Phantom, Jo Nesbø’s ninth Harry Hole book, readers thought the loose cannon detective was dead. Not only is he alive, but latest offering Police had the largest first print-run in Norwegian publishing history – a whopping 270,000 copies. jonesbo.com

Getting the sun on Rjukan

L E G O : WA R R E N E L S M O R E . C O M

Enthused

Unamused

We suggest leaving her On 22 July 1984, two men alone. On 23 August, cut off her right arm. celebrate 100 years since Feeling guilty two days Edvard Eriksen unveiled his later, they returned it statue, commissioned by and watched the arm get Carlsberg scion re-attached in one of the Carl Jacobsen. mermaid’s many surgeries.

Bemused

Confused

On 24 April 1964, the avant-garde Situationists decided to saw off and steal the Little Mermaid’s head (and not return it). Why? Radical politics. Or something.

On 8 March 2006, a group of feminists attached a sex toy to the statue’s hand and daubed the date on her in green paint – all for International Women’s Day. Really?

Nestled deep in a valley, the Norwegian town of Rjukan is totally deprived of sunlight for half the year. But a new plan to install mirrors in the mountains to reflect sun onto the town’s main square will hopefully result in Rjukan’s least gloomy winter ever. visitrjukan.com

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The page that overanalyses

The slow TV seismograph

30-hour interview with crime writer Hans Olav Lahlum (2013)

Ever since it broadcast the seven-hour Oslo-Bergen train ride in 2009, Norwegian broadcaster NRK has been trying to outdo itself. We chart some highs and lows

7-hour broadcast of the Oslo-Bergen train (2009)

Sixty of the one million viewers get irate about the stacking of the logs and text broadcaster NRK to complain

Excitement levels

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18-hour show of salmon swimming upriver (2013)

The train passes through Finse, the highest station in Norway As the spawn show reaches its climax, some viewers moan it’s not long enough. Really?

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12-hour broadcast of a fire burning (2013) Some 75-and-ahalf hours in, the Hurtigruten is accompanied by two waterskiers, one dressed as a gorilla, the other in a mankini

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134-hour live broadcast of the Hurtigruten ferry journey (2011)

Hours 134

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For five hours, Lahlum waxes lyrical on US presidents before spending another two hours on US elections

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They print how many? The new Norwegian edition of the Bible – which was partedited by controversial writer Karl Ove Knausgård – made waves last year by becoming the country’s bestselling book, with its 160,000 sales edging out the slightly racier Fifty Shades of Grey. But, worldwide, the Bible still has some way to catch up with that other great publication – the Ikea catalogue.

The airport kiss-off Aalborg airport

Ikea catalogue 208 million printed a year

The Bible

Norway’s bestselling newspaper. 86 million printed a year

45 million printed a year

AL LSTAR

Aftenposten

Copenhagen airport

The now-famous “Kiss and goodbye” sign at Aalborg airport’s drop-off area reads: “No Kisses Above 3 Min!”. Cute, but perhaps a bit stingy given “kiss and fly” times at other airports: Nice 5-minute kissing limit London Gatwick 10-minute kissing limit Copenhagen 15-minute kissing limit

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Agenda/

Ten things you ought to be doing

Getting away Stretching on Silver Island One of Europe’s newest yoga retreats is set in a gorgeous whitewashed villa on a remote Greek island, reachable from Athens. There’s no electricity – just yoga, beaches and nature. silverislandyoga.com

Booking Book B ok king ki ng by by th the h hour o r Spanish a h sta start-up art rt-up -up By B Hours H r means m n you o can book b k a hotel h el room o for just j t three r h hours – it’s got o ad dece ent range e g o of hotels o s in Spain a (in i decent Barcelona, B c lo tthink hink €30 – NOK235 O – for f r three thr hours) hours), u , and is set for a UK launch launch. c byhours.com y u c

Watching ng Balkan a k films i m The Sarajevo Fil Film m Festival F sti al (16-24 (16 6 24 4 Aug) Au ) w was unded e during u g the h 1995 9 ssiege g founded b o one e of and hass become ’ Europe’s biggest – it’s a great showcase for the thriving Balkan film scene. See Should Sarajevo be your next city break? p27 sff.ba

Staying on Lopud An hour’s ferry from Dubrovnik, sleepy Lopud is a tiny car-free island of 220 people, famous for its white sandy beaches (rare along the Adriatic) and abandoned Franciscan monas o s r Stay S monastery. at boutique gem h Villa. V . lavilla.com.hr lavilla.com.h a l o h The

Seeing S g p planes a differently e e t Itt was a only n a matter a r of time before e r planes p n got g the t Disney D n treatment t a e – Planes l e , a spin-off i o o of Cars a , is out o o on Planes, Cars, 116 A August. gu t disney.co.uk/ dis y . k// movies/planes m e p e

Eating ng in n Copenhagen ope h g The Copenhagen penhagen a n Cooking o i food f d Sep) p) festival (23 Aug-11 S features everything from Singapore hawkers taking over Vesterbro to former Noma star Mads Refslund cooking in a museum. copenhagencooking.dk

Belting show tunes We adore New York gem Marie’s Crisis Cafe, a gay (but not exclusively so) basement in the West Village where everyone gathers round the piano to blast out Broadway show tunes until the small hours. 59 Grove St

Festing in Oslo Headliners Blur, The Knife and Kraftwerk lead a decidedly offbeat line-up at Oslo’s Øyafestivalen, from 6-10 August. oyafestivalen.com

Wonderful

Weird

Rügen doesn’t get much press outside Germany, despite the es, island’s chalk cliffs, sandy beaches, wacky architecture and dark ury ry history – you can now buy luxury h he apartments at Prora, where the 00 0 Nazis built a hotel for 20,000 w mostly o y dere e elict. lict c people that’s now derelict. gen.de d ruegen.de

Seeing a legend Leonard Cohen’s world tour swings through Scandinavia thiss m month, with dates in Stockholm (15 Aug), Odense (17 Aug) and Oslo (20 Aug). leonardcohen.com

Getting involved

A L A M Y, G E T T Y, R E X , C O R B I S

Hitting German beaches

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The scene/

Hot-air ballooning in Cappadocia

We run the rule over a region of Turkey known for its strange volcanic rock formations and underground cities

Göreme National Park was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985; Göreme OpenAir Museum features rock-cut churches and frescoes goreme.com

The region was invaded by Hittites, Persians and Romans, among others, so locals used the caves to hide. Christians fleeng persecution established monasteries here

IMAGE AND WORDS: KRIST EN D OBBIN

The landscape near Göreme, in the Cappadocia region, was formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. The ash settled as soft rock which was eroded by the elements into pillars, some as tall as 40m

Neolithic man carved cave dwellings into the soft rock. There are 36 underground cities in Cappadocia

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When in Cappadocia

Every day at sunrise, scores of hot air balloons rise up over Göreme

Balloons can carry up to 20 passengers and trips usually last one hour, but do allow half a day for travelling to and from launch and landing sites goremeballoons.com

Cave dwelling The phallic shape of Göreme’s “fairy chimneys” have seen the area dubbed “Love Valley”

Europe’s first boutique cave is unlike any hotel we’ve ever seen – the bedrooms are carved into the mountain. While you’re sleeping in a cave, Serinn House is far from The Flintstones – the rooms offer tranquility and luxury. Breakfast on the terrace, with a view of Cappadocia’s moonlike landscape, is a highlight. serinnhouse.com

Whirl around The small town of Hacibektaş in northern Cappadocia is spiritual home to the Bektaşi Islamic order, which hosts a lively, fascinating religious gathering from 16-18 August. Expect dance, music, food and whirling dervishes.

Walk this way

Nearby airports Kayseri and Nevsehir are reached from Norwegian destination Istanbul. Book flights at norwegian.com

Middle Earth Travel’s week of walking gives you the chance to explore in detail the region’s stunning underground cities, troglodyte dwellings and rock formations. Their 16-22 September trek is suitable for all fitness levels and costs NOK4,650 per person, including accommodation, guides and meals. middleearthtravel.com

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Why drink coffee in a toilet? P.21 Which city has the best bike hire scheme? P.19

This month’s key questions answered

Did Norse mermaids swim to Scotland? P.22

August 2013

What did Amrita Acharia do after Game of Thrones? P.24

Is this the perfect paper plane? P.34 Are saunas suited to yoga? P.31

Should your next city break be in Sarajevo? P.27

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Stay central with us in major cities throughout Norway, Sweden and Lithuania.

BOOK NOW AT:

Comfort Hotels is a part of Nordic Choice Hotels with hotels at more than 100 destinations. Offer is valid every weekend in 2013 for a minimum of two nights and is subject to availability.

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Where’s best for bikes, then?

New York’s new Citi Bikes are a boon for cyclists, but how do they stack up against the other big bike schemes? Citi Bike, New York

Barclays Cycle Hire, London

Vélib’, Paris

8,000

6,000

Bikes

Bikes

20,000 330 Stations in Lower Manhattan

Launched May 2013 How much? US$9.95 (NOK60)/day for unlimited 30-minute rides or US$95 (NOK580) plus tax for annual membership. Good because Lower Manhattan is surprisingly bike-friendly, with good bike lane coverage and an easy-to-navigate road system. But the bikes are more expensive for day use than their Paris and London equivalents; the locations only cover Lower Manhattan (though there are plans to expand); and the system can be fiddly – on a recent trip, we had some trouble renting bikes because of issues at docking stations. Verdict citibikenyc.com

Bikes

1,800 Stations Launched July 2007 How much? €1.70 (NOK13.5)/day for unlimited 30-minute rides or €29 (NOK230) a year. Good because The largest bike-share scheme outside China is cheap, there are Stations covering loads of bikes and central much of central Paris is stunning to cycle around. The bikes have London (Zones 1 & 2) baskets and no big bank sponsorship. But they tend to have more problems, partly because they’re older. Theft has also been a problem, as has unavailability of docking stations. A lot of this is because the scheme has been wildly popular. Verdict velib.paris.fr

570

480km Bike lanes

440km Bike lanes

Launched July 2010 How much? £2 (NOK18)/ day for unlimited 30-minute rides or £90 (NOK825) a year. Good because “Boris bikes” are good value, the system works better than New York’s and there are lots of docking stations. But you take your life into your hands on London’s roads, where one-way systems are confusing, there are few bike lanes in central areas, and the cars come close. Verdict tfl.gov.uk

3,204km Bike lanes

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Feeling flush

The toilet bar The team behind Cellar Door, a nightclub that describes itself as “’30s Berlin-meets-New York basement dive” claims the space the club now cosily inhabits was once “the most infamous gents in London”. These Theatreland urinals were apparently used by Oscar Wilde, Joe Orton and John Gielgud, though not necessarily at the same time. cellardoor.biz

Why do Londoners drink coffee in a WC? The Attendant breathes new life into old public toilets remember seeing a sign saying ‘To Let’,” says Peter Tomlinson, talking about the first time he considered turning a disused public lavatory into a café. “Although somebody had scrawled a letter ‘I’ in so it read ‘Toilet’.” The Attendant retains period features from its previous incarnation while – and this is important when you’re drinking flat whites – obliterating some of the 19th century’s less sanitary mementos. The office of the toilet attendant, who once collected pennies from gentleman customers, has been turned into a tiny kitchen while a bar stretches across the porcelain urinals. “It opened in 1890 and was primarily used by traders working at the market on Great Titchfield Street,” explains Tomlinson. “We know from a crest on the urinals that they were produced by Doulton in Lambeth and they would have been

“I

carried here by horse and cart. The public toilets were closed in the 1960s and untouched until our landlord purchased them for £5,000 [NOK46,000] in 1989. He wanted to start a design studio, but that never happened and when we opened The Attendant it was the first time this space has been accessible to the public for about 50 years.” A café this unique could survive on novelty value alone, but Tomlinson has sourced topquality food and drink to ensure customers keep coming back – the coffee is from Caravan in King’s Cross, the milk arrives from a small farm in Somerset and the cakes are made by the acclaimed Bittersweet Bakers. It’s only missing something you might expect to find at a central London café – a working toilet. the-attendant. com Norwegian flies to London from 26 destinations. Book flights at norwegian.com

The toilet tour It may be hard to understand why Rachel Erickson swapped the sun and sea of her native California for London’s uniquely damp gloom, but spend three hours in her entertaining, informative company and it all makes sense. These toilets carry history, intrigue – and much more besides. lootours.com

The toilet club Bustling basement comedy club Ginglik is located in a converted Edwardian public toilet originally built for crowds at the 1908 London Olympics. It’s so discreet few locals know it exists – look carefully for the entrance by the edge of Shepherd’s Bush Green. ginglik.co.uk

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Did Norse mermaids swim to Scotland? The unsolved mysteries of the Sea Saami inspire a new novel letter to the editor of The Times newspaper on 9 June 1809 contained a startling revelation. It was from WM Munro, a schoolmaster from Thurso in northern Scotland, who claimed he’d spotted “a figure resembling an unclothed human female” while out walking. The creature had fish-like lower parts, he wrote, and it wasn’t just a product of his fertile imagination – many other locals had seen mermaids too. “Folk stories about sea people are still told in the Scottish Hebrides,” says author Elisabeth Gifford, whose debut novel Secrets of the Sea House features the

A

discovery of the bones of a mermaid child and is based on the tale of Munro’s sighting. “All kids know the stories of the ‘selkies’, the magical seal women who step out of their skins to become human,” she says. The mermaid mystery has never been solved, but research by Scottish historian and folklorist John MacAulay suggests Norwegian involvement. In his book SealFolk and Ocean Paddlers he argues that the fish-like people were most likely Sea Saamis, indigenous people from Norway’s northern fjords. He believes that they reached Scotland in rudimentary kayaks, using parkas made from sealskin to keep warm. Their sealskin leg covers, he

Words⁄Matthew

Lee

Illustration⁄Daniel

concludes, would have looked very similar to mermaid tails. When the Sea Saami were assimilated into the general population of Vesterålen, just north of Lofoten, 200 years ago, the mermaid sightings in Scotland stopped – their explorations had apparently reached an end. Links between the Saami and Scotland remain unproven, but MacAuley’s research suggests some Saami may have skipped the return leg and settled in Scotland. “There might be descendants of mermaids walking among us and living quite happily,” concludes Gifford. Elisabeth Gifford’s Secrets of the Sea House is published by Corvus on 6 August

Haskett

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Is there life beyond Game of Thrones? The death of Amrita Acharia’s character appalled fans of the cult TV series. Now the actress is getting back to her Norwegian roots

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fantasy TV show based on a book series. “I had no idea it would be anything like as massive as it turned out to be… It was hard to take in sometimes.” Acharia – who speaks four languages – can’t be fanboy catnip forever, though, even if she appeared in AskMen.com’s 2013 list of the world’s most desirable women. This month she stars in Jeg er din (I Am Yours), a harrowing Norwegian film about Mina, a Norwegian-Pakistani single mum in Oslo who has been estranged from her family. She falls for Swedish filmmaker Jesper (Skyfall’s Ola Rapace) and moves to his home country with her son. When it becomes clear Jesper is not ready for a family, Mina’s life spirals into self-destruction. “The film explores the consequences of this alienation, but deals with universal challenges I’m sure many people can relate to,” says Acharia. “It peels back a lot of taboos surrounding being a single mother, sexual promiscuity, unstable careers and what we feel is perhaps expected of us from the communities around us.” Acharia’s experience in Norway, though, was very different to Mina’s. “We were brought up liberally with lots of support and integration was a given for us – we knew where we were from, but when we moved we were keen to learn the language and adapt. Jeg er din

Words⁄Pierre

de

is about what can happen when this isn’t the case and when immigrants get split between two worlds.” Were she not so used to moving, Acharia might feel split between many worlds. She still calls Norway home (“It’s one of the only places I can really relax,” she says), but spends most of her time between London and LA, where she’s recently been filming Camouflage, in which she plays a Middle Eastern FBI agent. After Camouflage, she’ll join another US-based Norwegian, director Tommy Wirkola, for zombie comedy Dead Snow 2. It’s a far cry from immigrant single mothers and complex FBI agents, but Acharia admits, “I don’t have a concrete career plan. I’ll ride this wave as long as it will hold me up and hope to do projects that leave a mark.” Whether she gets to have another tagline, only time will tell. Jeg er din is released in Norway on 16 August

CORBIS

hen Norwegian actress Amrita Acharia’s character, Irri, was killed off in the second season of Game of Thrones last year, the show’s famously obsessive fans were not happy. “Amrita made Irri real and that’s why we freaking care,” wrote one on fan site WinterIsComing.net. Another raged, “I actually gasped ‘Nooooo’ when she died. Stupid, just stupid!” Irri’s death scene was cut – in the show she’s found dead on the floor – but when the scene of her getting strangled was uploaded on YouTube, almost two million people watched it. The geeks were doubly dismayed because Irri’s character survives longer in George RR Martin’s books, going on to have a lesbian affair. “I couldn’t believe that so many people cared,” says Acharia. “I still get letters from fans requesting an autograph with [Irri’s famous saying] ‘It is known’. It is kind of cool to have my own tagline.” Acharia’s reputation has come a long way. She spent most of her teens in Tromsø, having grown up in England, Nepal and Ukraine (her father is Nepalese, her mother Ukrainian), before heading off to study acting at London’s Academy of Live and Recorded Arts. She’d had a bit-part in 2011’s The Devil’s Double, about Saddam Hussein’s son Uday, when she got a call about some

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“It is kind of cool to have my own tagline”

Find more online facebook.com/ jegerdinfilmen @AmritaAcharia1 hbo.com/game-ofthrones

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See in store for more great deals. Subject to price changes, errors and sold out products.

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03/07/2013 12:39

nA

Should Sarajevo be your next city break? Definitely, if the travellers we found there are to be believed

1 Clockwise from left⁄An alleyway full of coppersmiths’ stalls in Baščaršija; the sahlep at Čajdžinica Džirlo; Zlatna Ribica (the Goldfish bar); the main square in Baščaršija; Sarajevo’s best burek (a spinach, cheese or meat pie) at Buregdzinica Sac (2 Mali Bravadziluk)

n a teahouse in Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s beautiful old town, fervent Bosniaphiles sip sahlep, a milky cinnamon drink, and exchange tales of how they discovered this underrated gem at the heart of Europe. “It’s my fifth time in Sarajevo,” says a bearded Turkish backpacker. “It’s like a quieter, cheaper, less touristy version of my hometown, Istanbul.” A German couple travelling through eastern Europe declare Sarajevo the undisputed highlight of their trip. Everyone nods in agreement.

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The bohemian owners of Čajdžinica Džirlo (on Kovači), Husein and Diana, gambled heavily opening in the aftermath of the conflict that left their city devastated. It was a teahouse in a coffee town, a foreign concept in a city lacking foreigners. Business was slow at first, but now it’s so popular it’s hard to find a seat. Every year is busier than the previous one, they say, and 2013 is set to be the best yet. For a town that was subjected to the longest siege of a capital city in modern history less than two decades ago, a surge in tourism is a sure sign

Words⁄Matthew

Lee

Photos⁄Tim

of progress. Between 1992 and 1996, Sarajevo’s residents had to survive with limited access to water, electricity and food, and more than 11,500 of them were killed, usually by sniper fire or shelling. In some parts of the city, especially in the commercial district, the walls of buildings are still punctured with bullet holes. A few minutes’ walk from the teahouse is the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, setting off a chain of events that resulted in the First World War. Sarajevo deserves better than to be forever associated with conflict. It’s a »

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Clockwise from top left⁄Strong, sugary Bosnian coffee and Turkish delight at Divan; a hilltop view of one of Sarajevo’s many cemeteries; a shisha café in the old town; traditional metalware on sale in the market; the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated 99 years ago; bullet holes in a graffitied wall in the commercial district

youthful, vibrant town where Muslims, Christians and Jews peacefully lived sideby-side for hundreds of years. An avowedly secular city where Islam is the principal religion, it’s almost always possible to get a beer with your meal. Downtown bar Zlatna Ribica (the Goldfish bar; 5 Kaptol, +387 33 215 369), offers a side order of delicious Find more online eccentricity with sff.ba your beer. It’s sarajevo.ba sarajevo-tourism. com

dripping with retro items – there are black and white TVs everywhere, including one tuned to Fashion TV in the bathroom. Thankfully, Baščaršija was spared the worst of the shelling in the Balkans conflict and 15th-century mosques, hans (roadside inns), hammams (baths) and a bazaar dating back to Ottoman times have survived. At Baščaršija cafés, teenagers smoke shisha and watch pop videos; in venues like Divan (77 Sarači), customers sip strong, thick and sugary coffee, another Ottoman import.

This month the city plays host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, launched during the siege and now regarded as one of the best in Europe. Bono and Angelina Jolie have attended in the past and raved about how much they love Sarajevo. They’re right – it’s beautiful, although that hardly comes as news to the old town’s tea drinkers. Norwegian flies to Sarajevo from Oslo, Copenhagen and Stockholm. Book flights at norwegian.com

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Photo: Getty. We can not be held liable to typos or sold out offers

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03/07/2013 12:42

nA THE BIG IDEA

Are saunas for more than just sitting? Absolutely, says Tiina Vainio, the Finnish woman who invented Sauna Yoga »

Words⁄Astrid

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Photos⁄Johannes

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Tiina Vainio demonstrates Sauna Yoga: 30 minutes of poses practised sitting down

THE BIG IDEA

hat’s the big idea? Yoga in a sauna. Tiina Vainio was working in advertising three years ago, when she visited London and had a eureka moment of sorts in the quiet room of a London gym. “It was this place of solitude and total quiet, and I thought it was just like being in a sauna back in Finland. I started to think of other quiet places, like yoga rooms, and the idea of yoga in a sauna started to form.” That’s a bit of an unlikely leap… Well, Vainio had for 10 years been a

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trainer in BodyBalance – a sort of hybrid of yoga, tai chi and pilates – as well as practising yoga for longer. Not long after her trip to London, she hosted a workshop for her wellness clients on ways to attract foreign tourists to Finland’s hotels, day spas and health clubs. “We brainstormed what was essentially Finnish – saunas kept coming up, as did the idea of silence, which Finns are very comfortable with. We discussed the concept of doing yoga in one – I thought it would all end there, but the idea stayed with me.”

What makes this special? Vainio started coming up with poses that work sitting down in even the smallest of spaces and tweaked the idea so it would have wide appeal. “In Finland, there’s a certain stigma about yoga, particularly with men – a lot of them find it a bit weird or complex.” Essentially, she came up with a “more user-friendly” form of yoga, with a sequence of six main poses over a 30-minute session, with eyes closed for much of the session. “It had to be easier because you’re in a 50oC room, but I also wanted something everyone can do, from sportsmen to 80-year-old men.” Sounds good… Vainio says one of the benefits is that “everyone’s equal. There’s soft lighting, no mirrors and no pressure – and having eyes closed means people can’t judge each other. It’s also a kind of meditation – one woman said it was like a 30-minute holiday for the mind.” But how does it work, business-wise? In December 2010, Vainio approached wellness companies about doing test classes and around 700 people tried it in early 2011 (“Most of them fell in love with it,” she says). She had barely applied for a trademark, come up with a business plan and starting training instructors, when newspapers and TV broadcasters started reporting on this new concept. And it went big? As Vainio says, “That was it – after that I just answered my phone.” Sauna Yoga today operates through 40 companies in Finland, from Helsinki to Rovaniemi in the north, with 150 trained instructors. Vainio is set to launch the concept in Estonia, Spain and Germany, and to expand her core team from three to five or six. It’s a licence-based product, so companies pay a monthly licence fee as well as paying instructors. Vainio, who has also published a book on Sauna Yoga, says: “Now I think it could go worldwide. I feel like Alice In Wonderland, on this unlikely journey.” saunayoga.com

Norwegian flies to Helsinki, Turku and Rovaniemi, which all have Sauna Yoga classes. See norwegian.com

We’ll award a prize to the best Big Idea of the year. If you’ve got one let us know: [email protected]

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Scandinavian Holiday Offer – BOOK NOW Stay 2 nights and get 20% discount. Stay 3 nights and get 30% discount.

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nA

How do you build the perfect paper aeroplane? We’ve tried countless paper aeroplane designs recommended by the experts. For our money, this one’s the best – behold, the n14 Step-by-step instructions ⁄ Build the magnificent n14

Step 1⁄Carefully tear out the page on the right (if there isn’t one, A4 will do too) and fold it straight down the middle vertically.

Step 2⁄Fold from the top right corner along Line 1 (with plain paper, fold the corner to the middle of the left half).

Step 3⁄Fold the paper back on itself along the centre line. The outside should run flush with the edge of the plane.

Step 7⁄From the right, fold the paper so that it runs flush with the centre of the plane.

Step 8⁄Do the same on the left side.

Step 9⁄Take the point at the bottom and fold it up towards the top of the plane.

Step 10⁄Fold the plane away from you from the centre (against the original centre fold) so that you have this shape.

Step 11⁄Fold the wings down. Try to fold from the nose of the plane so that there’s around 3cm at the back.

Step 12⁄If you want to fly straight, check the wings are level at 90o to the body of the plane. You’re ready to fly.

Step 4⁄Fold from the top left corner so that the paper runs flush with the right edge of the plane.

Step 5⁄Fold back, as per Step 3, creating this pretty shape.

Step 6⁄Take the point at the top and fold it down to a point around 2.5cm from the bottom of the paper.

Cleared for take-off⁄If you’re going to throw your plane in the aircraft, please check first with the cabin crew and your fellow passengers, and use respectfully. Or you could wait until you have more space for optimum conditions. Happy flying!

Illustrations⁄Toby

Leigh

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Detaljene skaper helheten, detaljene gjør oss unike. Telemarkhytter AS har som mål å pirre din nysgjerrighet, skape interesse og friste deg med vårt mangfold av unike modeller og detaljer. Vi ønsker å gi deg som kunde en spesiell opplevelse av kvalitet fra første kontakt til hytta står ferdig. Firmaet er leverandør av ekte norsk skreddersøm med fokus på å tegne, konstruere og levere drømmehytta til deg og din familie. Telemarkhytter AS er en bedrift i FH Gruppen, som er en av Norges største hytteleverandører og leverer i år over 300 hytter. Dette er med på å gi deg som kunde en ekstra trygghet gjennom hele prosessen, fra første møte frem til overlevering av ferdig hytte. Besøk gjerne våre nettsider, www.telemarkhytter.no, og se resten av våre delikate hyttemodeller samt priser, plantegninger, materialvalg, samt kontaktinfo og mye mer. Avbildet modell: Listul

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12/07/2013 11:08

How Boeing built the Dreamliner P.44

The people who really love theme parks P.56 The Danish duo behind hit comedy Klovn tell all P.38

Insight Stories that go deeper

Everything you need to know about Tuscany and Liguria P.88

On the road with Sweden’s raggare P.66

An epic bike ride in the French Riviera P.76

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“We just do whatever we find funny” The hit series and film Klovn made Danish duo Frank Hvam and Casper Christensen famous with its awkward, politically incorrect humour. As they help write Sacha Baron Cohen’s next film, will the rest of the world get the joke? Words⁄Matthew Lee Photos⁄Peter Sørensen

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atching the movie Klovn immediately before meeting its creators isn’t advised. By the time you’ve sat through 90 minutes of debased, debauched, downright perverse and uproariously funny jokes – not a single one of which can be recounted in a family publication – it’s all too easy to confuse the unscrupulous on-screen versions of Casper Christensen and Frank Hvam with the men we meet in a central Copenhagen office on a gloriously sunny Friday afternoon. Based on the long-term comedy partners’ TV series of the same name, in 2010 Klovn became one of the biggest films in Danish history, a big hit in Norway and popular on streaming website Netflix in the US, despite – or maybe because of – its bawdy humour. (Warner Bros are working on an English-language remake.) The film caught the attention of Borat star and fellow fan of taboo-busting comedy Sacha Baron Cohen, who has hired the duo to write his next movie. We meet in Christensen’s new office, a large space in a building oozing oldfashioned opulence – our photo-shoot will make props from chandeliers, stained glass windows and taxidermed animals. In his still-bare room, the sun shines through a large balcony onto an electric piano, a vintage Italian fridge and tiny statuettes of Hitler, Mussolini and Stalin. Christensen says they’re precious to him, they remind him of family, and for a brief moment that line between horrible Casper and nice Casper is blurred. Things get more blurred still when Hvam asks Christensen for help on what to wear

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Frank Hvam (left) and Casper Christensen (right) went from stand-up to popular TV hosts

for our photo shoot before settling on an open green shirt and jeans. He confesses that he requires sartorial guidance from his tattooed, tie-wearing colleague – “the fashionable one” – because he’s got no sense of style. In Klovn, socially awkward Frank constantly seeks approval from charismatic, confident Casper, a vulnerability keenly and repeatedly manipulated. Is this based on real life? “Absolutely,” says Hvam. “It’s always been a struggle to find my personal space around him because he’s so strong and dominating, and he’s very clever.” It’s worth pointing out the possibility that not everything said by the duo is entirely sincere. Like all couples in successful long-term relationships, there’s healthy competition, a tendency to wind each other up. Christensen declares that their working relationship is stronger than ever before chiding his friend for never inviting him for dinner in all their years of friendship. “That’s because you don’t want to come to dinner,” retorts Hvam. “You don’t see the point in dinner with friends if you don’t get to invite people to your big house, open up your big doors and say, ‘Welcome to my palace, here is my queen.’” Before becoming Danish comedy’s foremost odd couple, Hvam and Christensen were adversaries. The latter started in stand-up in 1989 – “There was one comedy club in Denmark, open one Tuesday night each month” – and became a household name as the host of Don’t Forget Your Toothbrush and Deal or No Deal. At the time, Frank was working as a vet – “I’ve always loved animals although these days I prefer healthy ones to sick ones” – when he took what was meant to be a short career break to try stand-up comedy. Although Christensen was already a star at the time Hvam was starting out, around 15 years ago, they developed an acute rivalry. “You have to remember that stand-up is a competitive environment and there were only about five of us doing it in Denmark back then,” recalls Christensen. “Besides, Frank was an absolute asshole onstage.” “I wanted to fight the establishment,” replies Hvam. “And you were part of the establishment, Casper.” When Christensen invited this brash contender to work with him on a new show, Hvam was the host of Denmark’s »

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Funniest Home Videos, a job he despised. “I saved him,” Christensen says, and Hvam doesn’t disagree. The duo made over 50 episodes of sitcom Langt fra Las Vegas (Far from Las Vegas), which revelled in finding humour in awkward and unpleasant sexual situations – not the behaviour you’d expect from hosts of family quiz shows. “I used Deal or No Deal to get money, power and fame,” explains Christensen. “And I used that money and power to have the freedom to do what I wanted.” The next thing he wanted was Klovn, something entirely different, both for the pair and for Danish TV. The episodes’ plots are planned in some detail, but the individual scenes are improvised. The duo admits US sitcom Curb Your Enthusiasm and its semi-improvised scenes are a huge influence. Like Larry David in Curb, the comedians play exaggerated versions of themselves, playfully subverting public perceptions (Casper the ladykiller, Frank the nerd) and creating excruciatingly embarrassing comedy in the process. “Klovn is about being male and 40,” says Christensen. “They shouldn’t have any problems in the world. They have money, wives, good lives, but they create problems for themselves.” After six seasons on the small screen, they decided to make a movie. “We left behind the little stories and wrote a big story with an emotional core,” says Hvam, whose on-screen persona invites his girlfriend’s nephew (a brilliant performance by young actor Marcuz Jess Petersen) on a male-bonding road trip

in some places. “In Norse countries whole families watch Klovn together.” “Except for the Swedes,” Christensen adds. “They’re smarter, more beautiful, more ethically correct than anybody else.” While promoting the film in the United States, the first time the duo had worked outside Scandinavia – “It felt like starting over,” Christensen recalls, “we loved not being famous” – they noticed jokes about homosexuality and abortion caused greater offence than in Denmark. Perhaps it’s not so much American conservatism as it is a confrontational streak in Danish comedy. After all, when Lars von Trier, whose Zentropa production company made Klovn, was thrown out of the 2011 Cannes Film Festival for saying he could relate to Adolf Hitler, he said the problem was

“We don’t intentionally try to provoke people” with Casper to prove that he’s responsible enough to be a father. He isn’t, obviously, and Casper’s determination to turn the trip into the “Tour de Pussy” in spite of the girlfriend at home and the child in the back seat, leads to innumerable genital jokes and inevitable, entirely deserved disgrace. “We had kids of 10 and old ladies of 80 asking us for autographs at screenings in Denmark and Norway,” says Hvam, suggesting that setting new lows for grossout depravity isn’t necessarily a turn-off

international journalists not getting his Danish sense of humour. “We never understand the problem with what Lars did because it’s obviously a joke and nobody got hurt,” says Christensen. “Danes are certainly hard people to offend,” adds Hvam. “But we don’t intentionally try to provoke people. We just do whatever we find funny.” Their sense of humour may occasionally get lost in translation, but Klovn has earned a cult following in the US nevertheless – and

a fan in Danny McBride, writer and star of sitcom Eastbound & Down. McBride is now remaking Klovn for US audiences. The pair have had a few meetings with him and they’re confident he’ll do a great job with the film, although it’s out of their hands. McBride isn’t the only big-name comedian to have discovered Klovn. Sacha Baron Cohen loved the film and reportedly flew to Denmark to hire the pair to write the script for his upcoming movie, The Lesbian. “It’s based on the true story of a Chinese businessman who offered US$65m [NOK398m] to any man who could marry his lesbian daughter,” says Christensen. “Which poses a challenge because how do you make that a happy ending? It’s obviously difficult to convert a lesbian and at the same time we want somebody to get the money.” The pair say they won’t change their writing style even though it’s a Paramount movie with a big budget. They had no interest in writing a movie for somebody else but say they couldn’t refuse an offer from Baron Cohen. Other than that, they’re giving little away. The interview ends with beer on the balcony and then more beer in the park. As a game of boules gets underway, Christensen is master of ceremonies, cracking jokes, rolling balls and being the life of the party. There’s sun, beer and good company – it’s the most beautiful day in Copenhagen, and Christensen and Hvam are enjoying themselves. If this were a movie, something dreadful would be about to happen. casperchristensen.com, frankhvam.dk

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Want more funny, funny Scandinavians? This year’s Edinburgh Fringe (edfringe.com) features several Norwegian and Danish comics – find the right one for you Daniel Simonsen After winning the Best Newcomer award at last year’s festival, Simonsen returns to Edinburgh with a new show, Stranger. “There’s only one comedy club in the whole of Norway and the best comedian is really s**t,” he says, before adding, “and that guy is me.” Pleasance Dome, 31 July-26 August twitter.com/daniel_ simonsen

YES S

Are you willing to spend nd money?

Sofie fie Hagen “You guys uys have a phrase here called ‘chubby ” Sofie Hagen told chasers’,” dience, referring a UK audience, to men attracted to larger women. “Thank you, that’s nice, but there’s no need to e. I don’t run.” chase. ing Horse at The Laughing Counting House, 1-7 August sofiehagen.com

Start here Do you want Norwegian comedy or Danish comedy?

NORWEGIAN

DANISH

NO

Do you like intellectual humour?

NO N

YES

Do you count sheep? YES

NO

Norwegians of Comedy Martin Beyer-Olsen and Lars Berrum perform at this free Nordic showcase. They promise British audiences their show will be “much funnier than the last time the Norwegians invaded” – plus “free oil money at the end of every show”. The Dram House Upstairs, 3-10 August twitter.com/larsberrum, twitter.com/martinbeyerols

Valdemar Pustelnik Pusteln

Claus Damgaard

53 Minutes about 52 Shee Sheep is billed as an absurdist absurdist, confessional show abou about mor sheep, growing up, more mo sheep, politics, even more sheep and love. Laughing Horse at The Counting House, 8-24 August valdemarpustelnik.d valdemarpustelnik.dk

Claus Damgaard aard is billed as one of Denmark’s top Søren Kierkegaard interpreters. It’s the kind of job title that itself requires n, but he uses interpretation, d storytelling humour and to make Kierkegaard’s philosophy more accessible. C venues, 1-26 August clausdamgaard.dk

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Where Dream are made Words⁄Toby Skinner Photos⁄Michael Hanson

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(liner)s The 787 Dreamliner is the most advanced passenger plane ever and the first with an interior designed by passengers. As Norwegian gets its first delivery, we head to the Boeing factory near Seattle to see how it’s built

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ileen Dickson has been giving tours of Boeing’s Everett factory for the best part of 27 years and you suspect some of her many jokes might be recycled. “You could fit the Pentagon in the factory,” she says, “though we say Red Square when Russians come.” It’s a gag that has legs, because you can fit just about anything in the factory near Seattle, which is the single biggest building in the world by volume. It’s so vast there was an urban myth a few years ago that it has its own ecosystem and clouds form in the roof of the hangar causing rain. That’s not true, but it is true that more than 30,000 people work in the 13,400,000m3 space every day. The plant has its own adjacent stretch of freeway, a credit union, fire station, DVD rental shop, phone store and water treatment plant. There are six branches of Tully’s coffee shop (Seattle’s poor sister to Starbucks) and 19

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cafeterias churning out 17,000 meals a day. If you look past the rows of off-hours workers playing ping pong, you occasionally see hangar doors the size of American football fields open to let some of the world’s most iconic aeroplanes rumble out into the open. This is where they put together the hulking 747, the world’s first jumbo jet, as well as the mid-size 767 and 777 planes. But the big news at Everett is the 787 Dreamliner, another mid-range plane which is described as a “game-changer” by just about everyone I speak to on a two-day tour of Boeing’s facilities. Boeing has solved the problem with the Dreamliner’s lithium-ion batteries, which grounded planes earlier this year – and the focus is now on what is simply an astonishing feat of engineering. The 1,200 or so mechanics, engineers, electricians and others currently working on the Dreamliner at Everett (see portraits) generally purr with approval at the mention of the name.

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Previous page and below left⁄A 787 Dreamliner nears completion at Boeing’s Everett factory, north of Seattle Right⁄Skin repair specialists Tom Stanton and Don Mittelstaedt, who check the 787’s exterior at Everett Below⁄A Boeing employees credit union ATM Bottom⁄Everett wing mechanic Robert Perry, who works on 787s and the 747 jumbo jet (in the background)

The tour guide

Eileen Dickson has been giving tours of Boeing’s Everett factory for most of 27 years and while she could be a comedian she still hasn’t got used to being photographed. “Every time I have my picture taken, my mother shows up,” she complains, before enquiring if there’s “anything I can do about the double chin”. Nevertheless, she’s a fountain of knowledge about the Dreamliner and the factory. “There’s no heating or aircon in the factory,” she says. “In winter, they blow the hot air down after it rises to the roof.”

It’s not as big as the 747, and it looks like, well, a plane – but it’s what it does that counts. It uses 20 per cent less fuel than previous planes, largely because the traditional aluminium frame has been replaced with a composite of carbon fibre, aluminium and titanium. If this sounds like aero-babble – and you do hear your fair share during a few days with Boeing – for you as a passenger, the point is this: as the 930 Dreamliners on order enter the market (there were 61 flying at the time of writing), long-haul flights will get more plentiful, cheaper and more comfortable. It’s the last bit that will probably impress you the most. I flew on Norwegian’s first Dreamliner flight from Seattle to Oslo and it was a different experience to any flight I’ve taken, notwithstanding the celebratory Champagne and seafood platter. »

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The forward cargo mechanic Above⁄There are 1,300 bikes and tricycles at Everett to get employees around the huge factory more quickly Below⁄To further speed up production, parts are ready where they’re needed

Kameron Batterman leads 15 people who work on the forward cargo of the 787-9 plane, one of the bigger 787s. “We do all the systems work – the tubing, the wiring, all the interior stuff in the cargo hold at the front. My grandad worked for Boeing – he dug trenches for them in Wichita, before moving the family here – and I remember coming as a kid and seeing the tiny people on the factory floor. A lot of people from high school work at Boeing – it’s like a highschool reunion. Working on the Dreamliner feels like a new age – there are a lot of new systems to put in, but it’s such an exciting plane.”

The cabin has futuristic blue mood lighting, which subtly changes colours until there’s a rainbow effect that admittedly recalls a 1970s porn movie. The windows are bigger; there’s more space; the air feels less stifling; and the touchscreen inflight entertainment system is like using an iPad instead of the hellishly fiddly videogame controllers of most long-haul flights. And if you go on the Norwegian Dreamliner, there are natty black-and-white portraits of ice skater-turned-actress Sonja Henie around the place. The reason it’s so good is perhaps because, in effect, you and I designed it. Blake Emery, Boeing’s director of differentiation strategy, led the concept development behind the interior and says the process was led by passengers for the first time ever. “We thought planes were becoming a commodity and wanted to try a more holistic approach. Traditionally, Boeing always asked their direct customers what they wanted from new planes – in other words, the airlines. But airlines often didn’t have the resources to properly poll end users, so we decided to go straight to the passengers and ask what they wanted.” Emery got 50 focus groups together across the world over five years in the mid-noughties, as well as experts such as French psychologist and marketing guru Clotaire Rapaille, author of the catchily titled The Culture Code: An Ingenious Way to Understand Why People Around the World Live and Buy as They Do. “Sometimes, we’d get 15 people in a room and just ask what they’d like from a plane if they could have anything; other times we’d put them in a mock-up of an interior and ask them how they felt; and sometimes we’d ask questions to subjects who had no idea what the interview was about – the aim was to get people to convey the actual emotions they’d like to have when flying.” »

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17/07/2013 17:48

Below left⁄“Anything in the cabin, I’ve fixed,” says Brian Lind, who leads a 10-strong interiors completion team on the Dreamliner Below right⁄Stretching on the Everett factory floor. There are also ping pong tables and a massage therapist who comes to the factory twice a week

The tester

Shane Decker is the 787’s production test manager. His team of 21 tests everything passengers touch – including toilets, window lights and inflight entertainment – and deals with things like water and waste. He says of working at Boeing: “Once you’re in, you stay. For mechanics and engineers, it’s a dream having all these experts right here and the benefits at Boeing are amazing, whether it’s insurance or funds for education. We have a mentor project where you can go to someone more senior and there’s a lot of movement up. I started as a cargo build mechanic three years ago and have worked up to leading a team. Now I’m working on the most advanced plane ever and it amazes me every day.”

CORBIS

He says the results were interesting. “Often people can’t articulate why they like something, or why it’s pleasurable – but the questions were tailored so we got results.” The changes on the Dreamliner are subtle but revolutionary in their way. Because people reported feeling cramped as they walked into a plane, the electronic, tinted windows are 67 per cent bigger than on the earlier Boeing 777, and even in sleep mode you can still see out. Blue lighting when you enter the plane makes it look more spacious, though the light warms up as you get higher (culminating in that rainbow at peak altitude), and subtly changes at meal times so the food looks more appealing. Because of the carbon-fibre fuselage, the cabin’s air pressure can be reduced to a more comfortable 6,000 feet from the usual 8,000 feet, while the humidity can reach up to 15 per cent compared to the usual 4 per cent. As Emery says: “You’ll feel better at the end of a long flight – less dry, less fatigued. You won’t necessarily know why, but you don’t need to.” Early evidence shows I’m not alone in my response to flying on the Dreamliner. A poll of 800 passengers by Japanese airline ANA found that 90 per cent said the experience surpassed their expectations and 92 per cent preferred the cabin interior. Passengers even reported increased satisfaction with things that hadn’t changed, like the service and food. While this was all going on inside the plane, there was also a change in the way they build the Dreamliner. Based on the lean manufacturing model pioneered by Toyota, Boeing had already restructured its factory line to cut the time needed to build planes. As guide Eileen says, some of the solutions were simple: “They thought we spent too much time leaving the plane to get parts. We’ve now got systems so the right parts are by the plane at all times, and we’ve got 1,300 bicycles and tricycles in the factory.” »

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28/06/2013 12:26

Photo: Rune Nilsen

Photo: Bjørn Erik Olsen

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No.96249 Visit Bodo.indd 1

16/07/2013 10:22

“By the end of the year, they’ll be able to finish a Dreamliner in five days”

Top⁄The Dreamliner is unique in that its fuselage comes in pre-built parts, whereas many aeroplanes are built from aluminium sheets. The 787 has fewer than 10,000 holes drilled into it during production (the 747 jumbo jet has more than 1 million) Above⁄Working on the Dreamliner’s wing

For the Dreamliner, Boeing took another idea Toyota had perfected with its cars – outsourcing much of the plane, and having larger chunks come in pre-built. Jeff Klemann, Boeing’s vice president of final assembly, explains: “If you look at other planes, we make a lot more of them in the factory – we assemble the skin sections to make a barrel; we make a lot of the wing. With the Dreamliner, the major parts come in pre-made – we get a service-ready, pressure-tested wing from Mitsubishi in Japan; we get a whole nose section from Spirit Aerosystems in Wichita that’s ‘stuffed’, which means that the wiring, hydraulics and pneumatics are already installed. It makes our job easier – we’re really just attaching pieces.” While a million holes are drilled into a Boeing 747, the Dreamliner requires fewer than 10,000 holes – and the result is less time in the factory. By the end of this year, they’ll be able to finish a Dreamliner in five days at Everett, a remarkable feat given that the next quickest production line – for Boeing’s 737, produced at the Renton factory on the other side of Seattle – is 11 days. The 747 jumbo requires four months at Everett. One day, the 787 will be in and out of the factory in three days. And once it’s ready to fly, it’s packed with more technology than any previous passenger plane. Production test manager Shane Decker, who manages a team of 21 that tests things like the toilets, seats, inflight entertainment, says: “The plane can order its own parts; in the air, if it’s in distress, it can self-correct, or combat turbulence. It’s the smartest plane we’ve ever seen.” This summer, Norwegian’s Dreamliner will be flying routes from Oslo to London, Barcelona, Nice, Malaga and Alicante, switching to long-haul in mid-August . Look for the 787 symbol at norwegian.com

The man with the manual

Steve Jahns is a maintenance engineer at the 787 operations centre, where a small team oversees every Dreamliner on the planet. On a big screen at the front of the room, you can see where every Dreamliner is, while other screens show real-time technical information on the planes. Jahns says: “My main job is the maintenance manuals for the planes, which can be incredibly complicated. As problems happen, airlines call me and I can verify procedures and talk them through what needs to be done. It’s often as simple as finding part numbers for clips round plane windows. When you have thousands of parts, it’s important you get it right.”

Find more online norwegian.com boeing.com newairplane.com

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Dreamliner-ology (Just about) everything you could ever need to know about the Boeing 787

Length: 57m

6

Wing span: 60m

2 11

300

15

MAXIMUM NUMBER OF PASSENGERS

1

4

15 3 5 14

1

12

50% CARBON FIBRE COMPOSITES MAKE UP THE BODY OF THE PLANE

1

15

9

Where the parts are from...

10

16

2 3

13 4

8

5

7

Mach 0.85

ITALY Mid-fuselage sections Horizontal stabilisers

7

SOUTH KOREA Wing tips Tail cone

8 9

CHINA Tail rudder Tail leading edge

10

CANADA Landing-gear doors

6

2 5

30,000

13

USA Nose cone Rear fuselage Vertical fin

14

SWEDEN Cargo doors

11 12

STAFF WORK AT BOEING’S EVERETT FACTORY EVERY DAY

ITS CRUISING SPEED – OR 903KPH

6

15 16

MAXIMUM WEIGHT AT TAKE-OFF BOEING 787-8 DREAMLINER: 227,900KG BOEING 777-300ER: 351,535KG BOEING 747-8I: 439,985KG

JAPAN Wing boxes Fixed trailing edges Mid-fuselage section

FRANCE Passenger doors Landing-gear parts

Boeing 737-700: 6,370km (Oslo to New York) Boeing 747-400ER: 14,297km

HOW FAR DOES IT GO?

Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner: 15,200km (London to Perth)

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IT’S BETTER THAN BOEING’S PREVIOUS MIDSIZED PLANES

20% lower fuel consumption

30% lower maintenance costs

40%

IT’S EASIER TO ASSEMBLE THAN OTHER PLANES

What it’s like on the inside The largest windows on any commercial aircraft, with electronic dimmer switches

More than 1 million holes are drilled into the Boeing 747 during assembly; the 787 has fewer than 10,000 holes...

LED mood lighting, with a range of colours HEPA filters remove airborne particles Humidity is 15% in the cabin, compared to 4% on previous aircraft

...and it eliminates 60 miles of copper wiring

Inflight entertainment system uses iPadlike touchscreens

IT TAKES JUST FIVE DAYS IN THE FACTORY TO BUILD A DREAMLINER

better range LED mood lighting colour chart

60% smaller noise footprint

resting

dining

rainbow

FIVE COOL (GEEKY) THINGS ABOUT THE DREAMLINER 1) It can order its own parts 2) It can automatically adjust to combat turbulence 3) It will self-correct if it’s in distress 4) It’s expected to connect 450 city pairs 5) Cray supercomputers spent 800,000 processing hours on the 787’s design

A Boeing 747 takes 4 months

THE 787-8 DREAMLINER (MID-SIZED) COSTS

DREAMLINER STRATOCLIMBER

$206.8 million OR YOU COULD BUY....

* Results of Boeing’s 2003 competition to name what was then called the 7E7

THE NAMES IT WAS ALMOST CALLED*

A Boeing 777 takes 49 days

eLINER

GLOBAL CRUISER

America’s most expensive home – timber magnate John Rudey’s $190 million pad in Greenwich, Connecticut

25 Maybach Exelero cars, which will set you back $8 million each – rapper Birdman has one, apparently

A Boeing 737 takes 11 days

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17/07/2013 16:50

Park lifers

G E T T Y, A L A M Y, R E X

From Disney World to the 170-year-old Tivoli Gardens, five enthusiasts tell us what they love about amusement parks

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17/07/2013 14:35

The Coney Island history buff Poet and artist Amanda Deutch works for the Coney Island History Project. She tells us about the New York beach’s fascinating past, including its iconic amusement park I grew up in Manhattan, but was surrounded by the myths of Coney Island. My mother and grandmother grew up on Coney Island’s 29th Street, above Tommy’s Radio. Back in the 1940s and ’50s, the shop had the only TV in town and crowds would gather round it. I remember them telling the story of Abe “Kid Twist” Reles, a Jewish gangster who died a mysterious death in 1941 at Coney Island’s Half Moon Hotel, just days before he was due to testify against the Mafia. I only heard parts of the story, but it all sounded so poetic, mysterious and magical. When I got to work for the Coney Island History Project in 2008, it was a dream come true. I work at the free museum, where I give walking tours, show people around the exhibition centre, conduct oral history interviews and direct some of our educational outreach programmes. Every weekend after work, I ride the Wonder Wheel ferris wheel to relax – I call it my Zen therapy. »

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18/07/2013 10:53

“Walt Whitman would shout Homer into the surf”

Previous page⁄The Cyclone, then and now Clockwise from left⁄The iconic Wonder Wheel, built in 1920; the Elephantine Colossus hotel; Nathan’s Famous hot dog stand

The now-deceased amusement parks – Dreamland, Astroland, Steeplechase and the old Luna Park – are central to Coney Island’s history, but you can still sense that magic at today’s parks. There’s an updated Luna Park, where the Cyclone wooden rollercoaster runs on the same site as in 1927, and Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park, which is still family-owned like the old parks. I’m not a ride buff or a sideshow obsessive, though – to me, rides like the Cyclone and the Wonder Wheel are simply exquisite structures. They’re also part of a wider history that’s endlessly fascinating. When there were only a few hotels here in the early to mid 1800s, the poet Walt Whitman would come here for solitude, walking up the dunes and shouting Shakespeare and Homer into the surf. But it gradually developed, and the hotels and amusement parks tried to outdo each other. One example was the Elephantine Colossus hotel, built in 1885, a 46m-tall elephant that was said to be the first man-made structure immigrants saw until it burned down in 1896. The rooms were in the elephant’s thighs and its eyes would light up – it was like something from a child’s imagination.

You can still feel that history today just by walking along the wooden boardwalk, smelling the sea breeze and taking in the sights – the handpainted signs at Paul’s Daughter clam bar, which has been there for 60 years and is classic Coney Island, or listening to musicians along the boardwalk playing everything from salsa to jazz and blues. You can see a traditional freak show or win prizes at skeeball, a bowling-meets-amusement park game that rose to popularity in Coney Island. Another must is Nathan’s Famous, the legendary hot dog stand which opened in 1916, especially since the hot dog was invented in Coney Island. Around 1870, German immigrant Charles Feltman ran the splendid Feltman’s, which was then the largest restaurant in the world. He didn’t want to buy napkins, so wrapped his sausages in bread – and the rest is history. Feltman’s is gone, like the bathhouses where Houdini practised his escape acts, but the sense of things happening is still here. It has always been somewhere where all walks of life can come – black, white, rich, poor – and just enjoy taking it all in. coneyislandhistory.org

Luna Park, Coney Island New York,USA

Opened 1903-46; reopened 29 May 2010 Size 1.28 hectares Scariest ride Boardwalk Flight propels you 60m over the Atlantic Ocean at 97kph to recreate the sensation of skydiving. One for kids Happy Swing is a good chance to swing around. Landmark attraction Wooden roller coaster Coney Island Cyclone opened in June 1927 and has been declared a New York City landmark; it’s 810m long and reaches 97kph. lunaparknyc.com Norwegian flies to New York from Oslo and Stockholm

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10/07/2013 11:24

“The key thing is that sense of creating another world”

This picture⁄The Demon (background) reaches 28m at its highest point Below⁄Tom Knudsen

The Tivoli gardener

Tivoli Copenhagen, Denmark

Tom Knudsen is the head gardener at Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, which celebrates its 170th anniversary this month. He says Tivoli’s magic goes beyond the rides I’ve been working here since 2004 and it’s amazing to be part of something that’s such a big part of Copenhagen life. And it’s not just Copenhagen – Tivoli Gardens are a national symbol of Denmark and known throughout the world. I think lots of Danes feel that in some sense they own part of it. The Gardens take up 82,000m2 in the centre of Copenhagen and we have 14 gardeners and between us we plant a lot of bulbs, around 100,000 tulips every autumn, which bloom from the end of the April to the end of May. We close for two and a half weeks on the third Saturday of September to prepare for Halloween, which involves around 20,000 pumpkins. Tivoli’s founder, Georg Carstensen, said Tivoli will never be finished and that inspires us. Even after 170 years, Tivoli is always developing, expanding and growing in different ways. From a horticultural point of view, we can have far greater variety throughout the year than in the past because nurseries have developed new ways of growing plants. The Tivoli Flower Show [which takes place on 25 August this year] is a highlight of the summer. We get 30 to 35 of the best floral decorators in Scandinavia to compete for the prize – they start at

060\

8am, three hours before the park opens, and every year they’re set a different challenge. I can’t give much away but this year’s competition will involve models, and lots of movement and colour. The key thing about Tivoli is that sense of creating another world, one right in the heart of the city. Of course some people come here for the rides, but many others buy season passes and just come here to relax in a beautiful environment. It’s our job to keep it that way.

Opened 15 August 1843 Size 8 hectares Scariest ride Aquila is a new ride for 2013 that promises 4G centrifugal forces and the chance to experience the world upside down at 11m in a giant eagle. One for kids The classic Little Pilot ride has been redesigned so kids can control the height of their plane. Landmark attraction At 99, Tivoli’s 625m roller coaster is one of the world’s oldest wooden roller coasters still in operation. tivoli.dk Norwegian flies to Copenhagen from more than 60 destinations

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17/07/2013 14:35

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17/07/2013 09:23

Right⁄The classic Flying Elephant ride has been updated to include two rotating squadrons of flying pachyderms Below⁄Ted Tamburo (left) and Shane Lindsay during the WDW47 challenge

“I’ve been to Disney World 800 to 900 times” Walt Disney World Florida, USA

The Disney World record-holders Shane Lindsay and Ted Tamburo, authors of the Parkeology blog, created and completed the WDW47 challenge – a daredevil attempt to ride all 47 rides at Orlando’s Walt Disney World in one day

Opened 1 October 1971 Size 12,174 hectares Scariest ride The Tower of Terror ride opened in 1994 and reaches a top speed of 50kph – with a view of the park from 52m. One for kids Children can control how high they fly on the Magic Carpets of Aladdin ride. Landmark attraction The Pirates of the Caribbean ride includes pirate ships, pillaged towns and sea shanties, and was the inspiration for the four films starring Johnny Depp. disneyworld.disney. go.com Norwegian flies to Fort Lauderdale from Oslo and Stockholm this autumn

Shane Lindsay

Ted Tamburo

I went to Walt Disney World in Florida every year as a child and became obsessed. I now live close to the parks and I’d be lying if I said Walt Disney World wasn’t a major reason for moving. Now I go to the parks around 100 times a year; I’d say I’ve been 800 to 900 times in total. I had this idea of going on every Disney ride in a single day for a long time. As a child, our family wouldn’t have much time at the parks and I’d obsess for ages over how to maximise my time there. WDW47 required a lot of planning, perhaps three months in total. I don’t need a map, of course, but I needed to research operating times, predict crowd sizes, and think carefully about distances and park transportation. I’d never met Ted, but we had a long friendship from theme park forums online – it’s surprising it took us this long to meet in person. We were confident we could do it, but we knew it would hinge on luck. Bad weather or big crowds could easily derail us. Unfortunately a late-night torrential downpour resulted in two rides being closed. We managed 45 rides and did three extra before closing time to prove we would have done it.

I love doing silly stuff so when Shane told me about WDW47 I thought it was so insanely stupid, in the best possible way, of course. Going with Shane was the first time I’d been with an equal, a nutcase like myself who knows everything there is to know about Walt Disney World. There were lots of in-jokes. I know this sounds silly, but it was physically – and quite possibly mentally – the hardest thing I’ve done in my life. There were long stretches of sprinting, it was very hot and I fractured my toe about midway through. At one critical moment – when we had to get from the Finding Nemo ride to Test Track in seven minutes – I was severely dehydrated, my foot was killing me and I felt totally defeated, like I would have to go home and tell my wife and daughter I’d failed. But I was somehow able to push on through. Now I’ve got my energy back I want to go bigger. We’re talking about doing all the Disney rides in the US in one day. But I’m also looking at the possibility of going to all the Disney parks in the world – Japan, China, Hong Kong, France and two in the US – in one calendar day. It might just work with the time changes. parkeology.com

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18/07/2013 09:59

“The Smiler was designed to induce total confusion”

The Smiler is Alton Towers’ newest attraction – but you have to be at least 1.4m tall to ride the world’s first 14-looping roller coaster

Alton Towers Alton, near Manchester, UK

The rollercoaster designer Opened 4 April 1980 Size 324 hectares Scariest ride The Smiler has entered the Guinness Book of Records for the ride with the most loops – 14 – and it reaches speeds of up to 84kph. One for kids Water ride Battle Galleons allows kids to squirt each other and those on land with water cannons. Landmark attraction You can visit the historic gardens – including Chinese pagoda fountain and conservatories – begun in the early 19th century and the Towers that give the theme park its name in this former home to the Earl of Shrewsbury. altontowers.com Norwegian flies to Manchester from Oslo, Stavangar and Stockholm

Andreas Simonis is a designer at Gerstlauer, a German company that has designed and manufactured more than 50 rollercoasters in the past 15 years. He tells us about his design for The Smiler at Alton Towers, near Manchester, which has 14 inversions, the most in the world It was my dream from childhood to design roller coasters. When I was young, I was too scared to go on roller coasters, but I was fascinated by these massive pieces of steel that were so intimidating. I’ve been at Gerstlauer for three years, but have been lucky to work on a few record-breaking coasters. I designed the world’s steepest roller coaster – Takabisha at the Fuji-Q Highland park in Japan – which has a drop of 121o, a negative angle, and Veil of Dark at Tokyo’s Joypolis, the world’s only spinning coaster with an inversion. We started on The Smiler in 2011, when Merlin [owners of Alton Towers] came to us for a roller coaster with the most loops in the world. It’s definitely special. The idea was that people can’t figure it out – you look at the track and there’s no way of telling where it goes. Even I had trouble when I rode it – it’s total confusion. There’s a lot of planning behind that feeling. We work with computerised 3D models and it’s always about being as creative as you can within certain restrictions. At Alton Towers, for example, you have to keep below the treeline and they also have old

trees you can’t cut down. And you have to think about the person riding – is there enough clearance between the tracks? Will the G-force be too much? The maximum G-force allowed in European law is 6Gs, and even then it’s only allowed for a fraction of a second. The Smiler hits 4.8Gs. When it comes to testing something like The Smiler, we use crash test dummies filled with water. They weigh the same as humans, but we can empty the water and transport them easily. You test the ride empty and overloaded – a packed train runs faster than an empty one – and eliminate all safety concerns. Most of the harnesses and bars have two locking devices, in case one fails. I rode The Smiler before the public – it was a thrill, but it was less “I designed this!” and more just enjoying the ride like a child. Hopefully that’s a good sign. gerstlauer-rides.de Norwegian flies to New York City, Fort Lauderdale, Copenhagen and Manchester. Book flights, a hotel and a rental car at norwegian.com

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Go, J

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Johnny, Go Words⁄Hans

Seeberg

Photos⁄Per

Kårehed

Sweden’s raggare are still riding around in ’50s convertibles, listening to rockabilly and meeting in diners – it’s just that they’ve swapped fighting for family get-togethers here’s something slightly surreal about being lectured on the merits of Chuck Berry’s back catalogue by a 17-year-old Swedish girl. “Remember, you have to go for his late ’50s period like Johnny B Goode – that’s the best stuff,” says Denise Bogren from Falköping, sitting with her friends in the back of the gold 1963 Cadillac DeVille her dad’s just bought her (even though you can’t learn to drive in Sweden until you’re 18). Dressed in a white vest top, plimsolls and one of those knee-length skirts that twirl up when you dance, Denise looks like she’s auditioning for a remake of Grease. The same goes for her friends. They’re four teenage girls out on a Saturday night, dressed like the ’50s never ended, raving to music that was recorded roughly 40 years before they were born. “Don’t you all prefer Rihanna and Lady Gaga?” I ask. »

T

Clockwise from left⁄Teenage raggars Louisa Johansson, Denise Bogren, Pauline Dahl and Johanna Hellström get in the ’50s party spirit; even the petrol pumps are from a leftover age; classic American cars in Sweden are in such good condition that Americans are trying to buy them back


17/07/2013 14:36

Clockwise from above⁄The Nasco Yankees’ club house in Falköping; no part of a car is safe from 1950s American styling; original 1970s raggar Peder Jonsson, 62, in his 1959 Oldsmobile 98

“We listen to things like that sometimes,” shrugs 18-year-old Johanna Hellström, her flame-red hair curled back into a wave. “But it’s not as good as the old stuff.” The girls are part of the new generation of raggare, followers of a Swedish subculture that celebrates the cars, music and fashion of Rock Around the Clockera America. The place they’re from, Falköping, is a small town roughly halfway between Gothenburg and Stockholm, and it’s home to local raggare club the Nasco Yankees, formed in 1976. A few hours before encountering Denise and friends, I spend the afternoon at a Nasco Yankees “meet” in a central Falköping park with Fredrik Svensson, an affable Swede with a leather waistcoat and sideburns so extensive that they take up most of his face. “Most Swedish people used to hate raggare culture because there was a lot of drinking and fighting,” says the 39-year-old. “That’s true!” laughs 62-year-old Peder Jonsson, who I meet later, and who’s been on the scene for half a century. “We would go to other nearby towns like Skara and Mariestad to fight. It was pretty violent. We don’t do

“When I die I’m going to be buried in this car”

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Clockwise from top left⁄Raggar Johanna Hellström, 18; Tone Nielsen, owner of 1950s shop and milkshake bar Nostalgeek in Lidköping; the 1959 Chevrolet Impala, like this pristine yellow one, is one of the most popular cars in raggare culture; more classic ephemera

that anymore – we’re too old! I bumped into a guy the other week who I used to fight back in the day and we had a laugh about it. It was like, ‘Sorry for trying to knock you out!’ It’s all so much friendlier now.” So it seems. Among 100 or so vintage cars gathered this afternoon, clusters of old people chill out on deck chairs; couples are pushing buggies that bulge with sleeping babies; a group of children are playing hide and seek around a 1969 Chevrolet Impala that Fredrik tells me is worth at least €60,000 (NOK475,000). It looks like a very polite Hell’s Angels gathering. I find myself chatting to Nasco Yankee Jennie Säll, who’s here with her husband Stefan, their two kids and their highly unusual automobile. I have to ask, “What do people think about you and your children driving around in an old hearse?” Jennie laughs. “Some people think it’s cool, others think it’s horrible – but the kids »

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love it,” she says, beaming with pride at a car that formerly transported dead bodies to funerals. Stefan, she explains, bought the 1968 Plymouth Satellite 10 years ago to celebrate the birth of their daughter. Since then he has lovingly added a purple roof and matching curtains to compliment the black exterior. Peering through the windscreen I can see on the dashboard what looks like a blood-filled syringe. “Don’t worry!” chuckles Stefan. “It’s just a ball-point pen that looks like a syringe.” At Falköping I learn of a place called Nostalgeek in Lidköping, 50km away, that has a retro American milkshake bar and is a popular hang-out for raggars. Forty-five minutes later, I’m walking into the store and stepping six decades back in time. It’s a pastel-hued fantasy with a black-and-white

Clcokwise from top⁄Wandering through Falköping; Nasco Yankee Klas Hermansson, 28, and son Erik, 4: “Erik loves the scene – he’s really into the cars. He’ll be a raggar of the future”; Nostalgeek milkshake bar; mind the car ornaments

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“Some people think the hearse is cool, others think it’s horrible” checkered floor, Naugahyde booths and a proper old jukebox belting out crackly Buddy Holly hits. Pulling up a chromerimmed high-top stool, I feel like I’m gueststarring in an episode of Happy Days. The question I have to ask myself is why? Why is a Scandinavian country with a population of around nine million so obsessed with the half-a-century-old culture of a country 7,000km away? How is it that Sweden has the largest number of American classic cars in the world – even more than there are in the United States itself? Nostalgeek owner Tone Nielsen, who is a well-known figure on the scene, offers some answers: “I think it was all due to life after the Second World War. People in Sweden had the money to ship cars over from the States, that’s how it started.” “I think it goes back to Elvis,” chips in Niclas Carlsson, a Nostalgeek regular, with an immaculate quiff and the biggest turnups I’ve ever witnessed on a pair of jeans. “I think there are just some people who don’t live in the current era,” adds Tone. “There’s so much trouble in the world today, so we live in the ’50s and ’60s. Maybe we think the world was better back then.” Back in Falköping, it’s 10.30pm and the families and children have long gone; the


Clockwise from top left⁄Staff at Nostalgeek get with the scene; the Säll family: Denise, Jennie, Stefan and Daniel (left to right); Niclas Carlsson, a 42-year-old consultant from Skara: “My mum and dad were into rockabilly and the cars – they just passed it down to us”

party has moved to a venue half an hour out of town. A rockabilly band is playing and while a lot of alcohol is being consumed, the atmosphere remains convivial. It’s no different to what goes on in a thousand other places across Scandinavia every Saturday night, but with a lot more quiffs.

A few days later I drive 350km north east, bypassing Stockholm, to meet with members of the Uppsala Rebels Car Club, who have invited me to a low-key Tuesday night meet. It’s an already-familiar scene of parked classic cars, a spectrum of age ranges and a ’50s-tribute band supplying »

17/07/2013 14:38

Where we stayed Skara Stadshotell, Skara Great hotel in historic Skara with ultra friendly staff and classic Swedish food. rosers.se Krusenberg Herrgård, Uppsala Immaculate waterside getaway with amazing spa and a seriously good restaurant – and only 20 minutes drive from Stockholm Airport. krusenbergherrgard.se

What we drove

Find more online nasco.se nostalgeek.se honkytonk.org vastsverige.com/en/ Falkoping

CHRISTOPHER HUN T

Volvo XC70 Un-raggar-like it may be, but the XC70 is comfortable and has a host of cool features (it even tells you to take a coffee break if you’ve been driving too long). A 1,700km trip around Sweden meeting the raggare cost about €180 (NOK1,400) in diesel.

CHRISTOPHER HUN T

“I had this scene passed down to me when I was little”

From left⁄Ruben Köppä, 18 months, whose mum Tina grew up in the scene; Fredrik Svensson, 39, with his 1971 Chevy Impala Below⁄Mikael Johansson, 53, has been a member of Uppsala raggare club Honky Tonk since it formed in 1976

the music. As I chat to 53-year-old Mikael Johansson, a proper old-school raggar sporting well-worn denim, a leather waistcoat and shaggy hair that doesn’t look too familiar with shampoo, a toddler waddles by on unsteady legs dressed in a T-shirt that reads “Raggare for ever”. He’s 18 months old and his name is Ruben Köppä, says his mum, Tina: “I had this scene passed down to me when I was little and I’m doing the same to Ruben.” “My teenage daughters are into raggare culture too,” says Mikael. “But then it’s all they’ve ever known. I took my eldest to a meet when she was one day old.” If that all sounds a little evangelical, then this does seem to be a culture that inspires life-long dedication. “I’ll be a raggar for the rest of my life,” Peder Jonsson told me that Saturday afternoon in Lidköping. “When I die I’m going to be buried in my 1959 Oldsmobile 98.” “I know of something better,” I told him. “I met someone who drives a vintage hearse. Maybe you can borrow that.” “A hearse?” he laughed. “That’s cool.” Norwegian flies to Gothenburg and Stockholm from over 70 destinations. Book a hotel and a rental car at norwegian.com

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Tour d’Azur Steep climbs, hilltop villages, hearty meals and epic scenery – three Swedish cyclists take on the French Riviera Photos⁄Martin

Stenmark

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Why the French Riviera? Erik Leonsson, 33, Patrik Berggren, 36, and Claes Huber, 47, are keen amateur cyclists from Stockholm who love hitting the roads around the French Riviera. Leonsson, a freelance art

director, gives us the lowdown on their most recent, 10-day trip, in spring this year. We’re rather ambitious recreational cyclists who compete in a couple of

races in Sweden. We’ve been down to the south of France for a few cycling trips simply because it’s a beautiful place to gain strength before the season begins. The roads are perfect, the scenery’s

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“There’s a lot of respect for cycling – it’s pretty much a national sport”

Previous page⁄The Verdon Gorge is about 25km long and up to 700m deep – offering great views to visitors This page⁄The group can reach up to 70kph going downhill in the mountains

breathtaking and there’s a lot of respect for cyclists in a country where cycling’s pretty much the national sport – a lot of professionals live around here, and the Tour de France passed through in July.

We usually set ourselves a target of riding 1,000km in 10 days, with about 10,000m of elevation, but you definitely don’t need to do that much. There are a lot of great roads for beginners, like the

flat seaside stretch from Cannes to SaintTropez, and you can just build cycling into any kind of holiday in the area. But if you do want to do a serious trip, you’ll have to prepare... »

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The preparation Preparation is key if you don’t want to hurt yourself. We took our latest trip in the spring this year and had to do our training for it in the Swedish winter, which isn’t ideal – we put in about 500km on winter roads and spent a lot of time in the gym. I’m not just saying this, but we always fly Norwegian when we go on a bike trip because it’s really convenient and cheap with a bike bag. We all have the same bag, an insulated soft shell Evoc bike bag – you basically take off the wheels, handlebars and the saddle, and pack it carefully. It’s really portable, with wheels, and we’ve never had any accidents or anything broken. We put a lot of money and time into our bikes. We ride carbon fibre bikes that weigh around 6.5kg, with a gear cassette that allows for lighter gearing in the steep mountains. We always use clincher wheels (with an inner tyre tube) down here, since a flat tyre can be quite a hassle in the mountains with a tubular wheel. Then it’s about figuring out where you want to stay based on the kind of trip you want...

This page, clockwise from above⁄ Lightweight clincher wheels avoid problems with flat tyres in the mountains; on the way to Saint Vallier de Thiey; the Evoc travel bag the group uses; Patrick, Claes and Erik take a short walk to the house

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“You can stay anywhere on the Riviera and it’s a perfect base for cycling”

This page, clockwise from left⁄The hilltop town of Grasse; the bike; one of the unusual road signs on the route; walking through the village of Bajardo

The base camp We stayed in a beautiful house near Grasse, 35km from Nice, and it was just a coincidence that we found this paradise for cyclists. It’s a beautiful place anyway, with a gorgeous old town and its famous perfume heritage, but for cycling it’s quite special – you’re already 300m above sea level, and there

are so many classic routes and good climbs around. We cycled up to 150km on a single day on our trip, but if you want something easier you can head downhill to the coast. Really, you can stay just about anywhere on the French Riviera and it’ll be a good base for a cycling trip – the area seems designed for it. »

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“From St-Tropez to Cannes the sea views are gorgeous”

Bajardo

The hard route

Ceriana Dolceacqua Camporosso

Italy France

Sanremo Ventimiglia Menton

Cannes

The easy route

Théoule-sur-Mer

Saint-Raphaël

Sainte-Maxime Saint-Tropez

The rides Many of our days were spent heading off into the mountains around Grasse, but for two of the most memorable routes we drove to other places. One great day we started in Menton, near the Italian border, and cycled to the Italian village of Bajardo in Liguria, which is known as the gateway to the Alps. It’s an epic climb along these narrow roads,

through some of the most beautiful villages we’ve ever seen – and you can see snowy mountains in the distance along certain stretches. On the way back it goes really fast and you can see the Mediterranean glittering in the distance long before you get to it. We passed San Remo, a picturesque town on the Ligurian coast, around sunset, and got back to the car along stunning coastal roads.

Another beautiful ride was along the coast road from Mandelieu, near Cannes, to Sainte-Maxime near Saint-Tropez. It’s pretty much flat, which is a bit hard to find on the French Riviera. You’re by the sea almost the whole way, and the sea views and little villages along the way are gorgeous. Our route was 70 miles, but you can do less and take it at a much more leisurely pace. »

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Opposite⁄Admiring le Loup river on the Route des Gorges This page, clockwise from above⁄Bajardo; about to set off from Menton; the coast road to Bajardo, in the Italian region of Liguria

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The Riviera this summer The Matisse Museum

The Summer of Matisse To mark 50 years of the Matisse Museum, until 23 September Nice hosts eight exhibitions – plus talks and concerts – themed around the colourful artist, who lived in the city for the last 37 years of his life. matisse2013.nice.fr

This page, clockwise from above⁄Mussels at L’Escapade Brasserie, Sainte-Maxime; pausing as a bigger group of cyclists goes by; admiring the view in Cabris; the mountain village of Gourdon

Les Lives du Théâtre de Verdure 2013 This open-air theatre in Nice was built in 1945 and has hosted artists from Serge Gainsbourg to The Cure. This summer’s programme includes chansons from Sylvie Vartan (4 Aug), as well as comedy in Les Plages du Rire (3-10 Aug). And Ibiza comes to the venue 30-31 Aug. tdv-nice.org

Nice Rafting For something a little bit different, Nice Rafting offers hydrospeed – rushing down the river on a float – or canoerafting in the Gorge de la Roya near Nice. nicerafting.com

Find more online aubergeduvieuxchateau. com creperiedumoment.com grasse.fr comunebajardo.it

The pit-stops We usually bring energy bars and gels, and aren’t really headed for any particular restaurants – it’s more about re-fuelling. But the food’s almost always good. Any upscale restaurant would have issues allowing sweaty, salty cyclists in lycra tights to the table, so don’t go with fine dining ideas. You can get a great relaxed meal at the Auberge du Vieux Château restaurant in Cabris, near

Grasse, and mountaintop village Gourdon is also worth a stop for the view. If you pass Carros, north of Nice, you should definitely stop at the Crêperie du Moment – they serve amazing crêpes. Norwegian flies to Nice from Oslo, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, London Gatwick, Sandefjord-Torp, Bergen, Stavanger and Trondheim. Book flights at norwegian.com

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“We want a system that’s so simple and low-cost that our clients can spend all their time on their own customers”

THE PRICE IS RIGHT A dedication to low prices and no surprise charges have made Dipper the mobile phone company of choice for small and medium-sized businesses “We offer extremely reasonable data and overseas roaming charges, even compared to many lock-in contracts,” says Cecilie Vanem, the effervescent managing director of Norway’s newest mobile phone company. Dipper, the first mobile operator without contract periods in the Norwegian business market, caters to around 1.1 million customers, mainly in businesses of fewer than 100 employees. Its aim is simple: getting the best prices for its customers, without any hidden costs. “We don’t bind customers into lock-ins [long-term fixed contracts],” explains Vanem, “yet our prices are as low as the lock-ins. And what you see is what you get – there are no hidden costs, and no surprises on your bills. If you’re not satisfied, you’re free to go – though we’re confident people will choose to stay.” Dipper – named after the small Norwegian national bird that dives into ice-cold water in search of food – is owned by Telenor, but its small team of 20 work in separate offices in downtown Oslo, with a healthy spirit of challenging accepted norms. The company offers only three easy-to-understand subscriptions, and all prices are quoted upfront. “In some ways, we’re the equivalent of Norwegian in the mobile industry,” says Vanem, who has been working in the IT industry since 1995, and recently won the Oda award as Norway’s IT Woman of the Year. “We’re doing things differently, and trying to make things simpler and cleaner.” The final goal, she says, “is a system that’s so simple and low cost that our clients can spend all

their time on their own customers instead of worrying about high data costs and other annoying mobile issues”. With the increase in small and mediumsized enterprises doing increased business in European markets, there is a growing awareness of the need to get the lowest possible prices on mobile usage abroad, and Dipper has been quick to respond. From the beginning of July, the company has been offering extremely low prices within EU countries, starting at only 1.99NOK per megabyte of data and 0.49NOK per SMS, meaning that its customers can finally take control of their costs in both the short and long term. The aim, ultimately, is to get people to stay with Dipper not because they’re locked into a contract, but because they’re getting great value and great service. “Dipper’s aim is to have satisfied customers who always choose to land with us even if they are free as a bird,” concludes Vanem.

Dipper.no

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18/07/2013 13:44

Tuscany & Liguria /By Norwegian The region that reinvented literature, art and science continues to enchant and enlighten – and the beaches aren’t too shabby either. We take a tour

At a glance Tuscany and Liguria are two of Italy’s 20 administrative regions. Their respective capital cities, Florence and Genoa, are home to regional parliaments.

The combined population of these two provinces is just over five million.

Italy gets more than 45 million tourists a year, placing it fifth after France, the USA, China and Spain. Rome is the most visited city; Florence leads in Tuscany and Liguria.

Tuscany is the birthplace of the Renaissance, a cultural and scientific movement that started in Florence in the 14th century and then spread throughout Europe.

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The map

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Florence While Tuscany’s capital is renowned for its peerless cultural treasures, it has one foot in the future, too. A spate of new nightclub and bar openings has made it the region’s most vibrant city.

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Lucca’s Renaissanceera defensive walls are seriously sturdy and they have to be to contain a town centre so packed full of history and culture. Hire a bike and soak up its leisurely charm on two wheels.

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Pisa Never has a town gained so much from shoddy engineering as Pisa. But there’s plenty to discover away from the tower – charming restaurants, magnificent churches and a raucous student nightlife scene.

Portofino

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The travel brochure shot Before Hollywood discovered Portofino in the 1950s – you can blame Humphrey Bogart and Grace Kelly – it was a quaint, unspoiled Ligurian fishing village. Now it’s widely known as a playground for celebrities, but head a couple of miles along the coast and it’s as low-key, beautiful and charming as ever.

Portofino may be the last word in see-andbe-seen Italian resorts, but non-billionaires are also welcome in this colourful fishing village, with mid-range hotels and low-key eateries easy to find.

Siena This picturesque, compact Tuscan town is known for its gothic architecture, especially the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral, and its oldfashioned sweets such as ricciarelli (orange and almond cookies).

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We all love Tuscany!

Visit Tuscany in spring, summer or autumn! In-Italia offers private villas with pools in historical surroundings or holiday apartments in country houses with warm local hospitality. We even offer residences on the Tuscan coast for families. That is because WE ALL love Tuscany! Book your holiday accommodation now at www.in-italia.dk - www.in-italia.se - www.in-italia.com

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05 How to do Portofino if you’re…

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Get active

Cycling in rural Tuscany is a treat. The landscape is stunning, the roads are generally excellent and local drivers are surprisingly well behaved. The Chain Gang runs tours that take in medieval villages, hilltop towns, world-class wineries and some of the province’s best rural restaurants. While there are a couple of steep climbs, it’s a trip suited to all abilities. There are seven-night tours commencing on September 7 and 21. Tuscany isn’t known for its islands, but UK sailing holiday company Bareboat is hoping to lure holidaymakers to the Seven Sisters – seven islands situated between the Tuscan coast and Corsica. They charter a range of yachts starting at NOK8,500 per week in the 10m Sun Odyssey (two people) to NOK22,100 for a 15m boat (eight people). thechaingang.co.uk, bareboatsailingholidays.com

C ORBI S, O U T L INE , RE X

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Wayne Rooney Marry your childhood sweetheart in a 17thcentury palace; get a police escort to a medieval monastery; pick up £2.5m (NOK22.4m) from OK! for exclusive photos.

Rihanna

Where to sleep...

Eat gelato alla stracciatella; sink white wine; still look fantastic in a bikini.

For Tuscan royalty

For comfort on a budget

For traditional luxury

For glamour and glitz

St Regis, Florence

Plus Hostel, Florence

Book a royal suite at the recently refurbished St Regis to experience the good life, Medici-style. Expect fine-art prints, bed-sized chandeliers, coffered ceilings, intricate frescoes and indecent quantities of gold, silk and velvet. stregisflorence.com

Plus bills itself as a “luxury hostel”, which sounds contradictory until you see its two pools, sauna and Turkish bath. The dorms are spacious, there’s free WiFi and a cheap breakfast, and women can get a hairdryer and fluffy towel upon arrival. plushostels.com

Toscana Resort Castelfalti

Hotel Splendido, Portofino

In 2007, tour operator TUI bought the entire Tuscan village of Castelfalfi. The last five villagers took the money, and it’s since been sensitively restored with boutique hotels, golf courses and an apartment complex, The Borgo. castelfalfi.co.uk

If it’s good enough for Winston Churchill and Humphrey Bogart, it’s good enough for you. Formerly a Benedictine monastery, it’s steeped in local mythology – and the harbour views from the lavish rooms are magical. hotelsplendido.com

Richard Burton Check into the Hotel Splendido; propose to Cleopatra costar Elizabeth Taylor; leave Portofino to get married, divorced, remarried and redivorced.

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The world’s #1 olive oil

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17/07/2013 09:27

06 Famous Florences

Florence Nightingale Named after the city of her birth, Nightingale was a hero of the Crimean War, a talented statistician, a prolific writer and, above all, a social reformer widely credited with pioneering modern nursing.

Florence Griffith Joyner It’s been 25 years since Flo-Jo smashed the women’s 100m and 200m world records at the Seoul Olympic Games and nobody has come even close. The US sprinter died in 1998, aged 38.

Eggs florentine

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La Chiusa, in remote Montefollonico

Cibreo Teatro del Sale It’s worth jumping through hoops to eat at this inimitable Florence restaurant. It’s both a theatre and a showcase for Tuscan cooking where each dish leaves the kitchen to a dramatic announcement from the chef before being passed round. You need to buy €7 membership (NOK56) and fill out a bunch of forms, but it’s worth the hassle. edizioniteatrodelsalecibreofirenze.it

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Solo Ciccia Butcher to the stars Dario Cecchini counts Elton John, the UK’s Prince Charles and Jack Nicholson among his clientele. Cecchini is a boundlessly creative carnivore who uses his Panzano restaurant to serve produce from his butcher’s shop – he serves meat and meat alone, and his huge personality matches the vast portions of food. solociccia.it

La Chiusa An ancient oil mill in the remote village of Montefollonico seems an unlikely place to find the future of Tuscan cooking. But La Chiusa breathes new life into the old classics. The handmade pasta here is celebrated (don’t miss the tagliatelle with truffles), while the baccalà is a must-try – a regional version of salt cod in tomato sauce. ristorantelachiusa.it

If you have kids

The equestrian centre at Castellare di Tonda (castellareditonda.com) is a great place for kids to connect with nature. The agri-tourism resort at the heart of Tuscany offers kids riding lessons at their well-equipped stables. Summer here gets hot so a cool sea breeze will appeal. Hop on a catamaran at Viareggio Harbour (pre-book at cetus@supereva. it) to meet tuneful bottleneck dolphins, who use high-frequency clicks, squeaks and whistles to

communicate with each other. Nobody will award Pinocchio Park (pinocchio.it) any prizes for hi-tech innovation, but it has few rivals when it comes to old-school charm. Pinocchio, of course, is Florentine, and the original The Adventures of Pinocchio is set in Tuscany. This park, seemingly untouched since opening in 1956, divides opinion – some warm to the puppet-making workshops and butterfly house, others will crave a swift return to modernity.

In the know A great way to discover Tuscany is on a walking tour. Art Viva (italy.artviva.com) has tailored tours of Florence depending how long you have: you can see work by Leonardo da Vinci at the Uffizi, visit Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia Gallery or take a night-time tour of the city’s bloody past. Local Constanza Riccardi (sienawalkingtours. com) also offers a range of Siena city and Tuscan countryside tours, including a taste of Montepulciano.

REX

A veggie version of the American brunch classic, eggs benedict, but with spinach instead of ham. Not to be confused with Florentines, the chocolate-coated fruitand-nut treat.

Where to book tables

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Lost coastlines

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Viareggio: expect high fashion on the beachfront promenade

The Italian Riviera offers the full range of seaside experiences from faded glamour to posh resorts, tiny fishing villages and unspoiled gems. Here are three uncrowded yet beautiful stretches of coastline

Bonassola Tourists have yet to discover this quiet Ligurian fishing town just outside the Cinque Terre. It ticks all the boxes: beautiful old houses, a long sandy beach and many walking trails in the nearby hills. Here you must adjust to the rural Italian pace of life – as slow as possible.

It’s not all history in Florence. La Cité Libreria Café (lacitelibreria.info) is one of several venues offering cutting-edge theatre, art, music and dance, CCC Strozzina (strozzina.org) does a great job of promoting young Italian artists, while the Viper Theatre (viperclub.eu) is the place to catch touring indie bands.

Find more online discovertuscany. com turismoinliguria.it Book your tickets norwegian.com

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Viareggio Viareggio is as Italian as it gets, the kind of town where it seems the entire population puts on their best clothes to walk along the Belle Époque promenade each evening. It’s best known for its carnival, although you’ll have to wait until February F ebrua y for or th the e next one.

Back of the net

The new football season starts in Italy on 24 4A August and d there’s h ’ a good d spread of Serie A clubs throughout the region. Fiorentina were last season’s surprise package, only just missing out on the Champions League, while Livorno will be more than happy to avoid relegation

Fiorentina

Genoa

Livorno

Sampdoria

Hometown: Florence Stadium: Artemio Franchi Last season: 4th (Serie A) Man to watch: Montenegran striker Stevan Jovetic is the star attraction, but Fiorentina may struggle to hold onto the brilliant 23 year old.

Hometown: Genoa Stadium: Luigi Ferraris Last season: 17th (Serie A) Man to watch: Slovak midfielder Juraj Kucka’s combative performances helped Genoa narrowly escape relegation for the second year running.

Hometown: Livorno Stadium: Armando Picchi Last season: 3rd (Serie B) Man to watch: Brazilian striker Paulinho is craved by several English Premiership teams after playing a large role in Livorno’s recent promotion to Serie A.

Hometown: Genoa, Stadium: Luigi Ferraris Last season: 15th (Serie A) Man to watch: Serbian Nenad Krstičić, who’s back in the team four years after being diagnosed with cancer and being told he had 48 hours to live.

A L A M Y, G E T T Y

In the know

Camogli With its pastelcoloured tall houses, rickety fishing boats floating in the harbour, and delightful momand-pop restaurants, Camogli is an underexplored gem on the Ligurian coast. Hotel Cenobio (cenobio.it) is highly rated and centrally located.

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animal ls grazin ng at least 1,850 met t er e s abov v e sea le levell animals grazing meters above

cleanest air in northern greece

two generations of inherited expertise

a fine acidity provided by the centaurea vlachorum

mineral-rich soil

boutsko sheep breed (ovis ammon)

the secret behind our taste enhancers

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16/07/2013 16:30

n ⁄ BEST OF SCANDINAVIA DIRECTORY

LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE Tired of the urban lifestyle? The city of Tromsø, nominated by CNN Travel as one of the must-do experiences of 2013, sits a mere one-hour drive from pure Arctic wilderness at Lyngsfjord Adventure and Camp Tamok. As such, visitors to the area can enjoy the comfort of the hotels and restaurants in Northern Norway’s capital, as well as the thrill of the wild outdoors. In this remote area, free from the noise and light pollution of the city, Lyngsfjord Adventure offers an exhilarating package of snowmobiling, dog and reindeer sledding, and exotic

accommodation in a Sami tent. And, far from your typical adventure tourism, these expeditions also pose a personal challenge, as you drive the sledge and snowmobiles yourself, in small, intimate groups. The spectacular, mountainous scenery through which you ride is only bettered by what can be seen in the sky, as these adventures also provide an excellent chance to experience the stunning Northern Lights in an authentic and relaxing atmosphere.

PETIT HOTELS

WELCOME HOME

Just what makes a stay at a Petit Hotel so wonderful? It might be the delicious food or wines, the beautiful rooms with comfortable beds, fishing in the early morning, a stroll in the woods or the great beer in the pub. It could be a warm outdoor swimming pool under glowing northern lights or a fine cognac in front of a crackling winter fire. Or it may be the hospitality, service, care and consideration that everyone shows you, leaving you with a lasting memory of the “small hotels with the big hearts”. Petit Hotels can be found in Sweden and Finland.

Travelling to a destination where you can visit Sjømannskirken? The Norwegian Church Abroad is your home away from home whether you’re getting married, want to meet other Scandinavians or just want to taste its famous waffles. And if you need any help, it’ll be right there for you. Share a photo of you with this ad, including the hashtag #sjomannskirken, on Instagram and you’ll get a surprise! Alternatively, bring the ad to one of its churches and receive a free waffle!

petithotel.se

sjomannskirken.no

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+47 7771 5588 lyngsfjord.com, [email protected]

18/07/2013 09:39

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE heart of Copenhagen, on the magnificent Kongens Nytorv, the hotel is surrounded by the best shopping, design, dining and cultural experiences that the city can provide. It offers the ultimate in luxury and features 90 rooms, including 60 suites. In addition, the Michelinrecognised head chef Ronny Emborg upholds the site’s culinary traditions in Marchal restaurant and bar, while guests can unwind at the Balthazar Champagne Bar and the Amazing Space d’Angleterre spa.

+45 3312 0095 dangleterre.com

Photo: mattiasfredriksson.com

If the walls could speak, they would tell fairy tales of passionate love, lavish banquets and unparalleled grandeur. Hotel d’Angleterre was founded on a love affair. When the young Frenchman Jean Marchal came to Copenhagen in the middle of the 1700s, he met the royal chef’s daughter Maria Coppy and the two fell in love. She was a fantastic cook, while he knew everything there was to know about service. This perfect match marked the beginning of the d’Angleterre history, with the opening of their restaurant in 1755. In May 2013, after an extensive two-year renovation, the over-250year-old deluxe Hotel d’Angleterre reopened. Located right in the

POINTS NORTH CHARTERS

SVALBARD – A MEMORY FOR LIFE

Experience the breathtaking rush as you enjoy some of the most unique and spectacular fjord ski-touring on the planet. This can be yours with a ski charter on board the Gåssten, sailing out of Ålesund. One of the last wooden warships ever built, and crafted to an exceptional standard, the Gåssten provides 10 guests with unrivalled access to the unspoiled Norwegian mountains direct from the water. To book your trip, visit the website or email Points North Charters directly.

These exciting excursions provide the freedom to explore the wilderness of Svalbard on a polar dog-driven sled, go on an exhilarating skiing expedition or venture far further afield on a snowmobile safari. With day trips available, you will get the chance to see remarkable arctic wildlife, including reindeer, seals and, if you are lucky, even polar bears, This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that is not to be missed.

pointsnorthcharters.com [email protected]

+47 7902 2222 wildlife.no, [email protected]


18/07/2013 09:39

n ⁄ DIRECTORY

LILLE HERBERN

SUSHI BAR

Set on a small island in the Oslo Fjord, close to the city centre, this unique seafood restaurant has been turning guests into regulars since 1929. It is easily reached with a ferry from Rådhuskajen – step off at Bygdøynes and take a short stroll to Herbernveien, from where the M/S Lille Herbern will take you over to the island. Oslo’s best-kept secret, the restaurant is open between 3pm and 11.30pm on weekdays, and noon and 11.30pm on weekends, from 1 May to 30 September.

Established in 1998, Trondheim’s first sushi restaurant has become renowned for using the highest quality seafood to make peerless examples of the Japanese classic. Now, its popularity has led to the opening of a second restaurant close to the bustling Solsiden shopping centre, to go along with the original site near the city’s fish market in Ravnkloa. In 2013, Sushi Bar received the Certificate of Excellence from Tripadvisor in recognition of its positive customer feedback.

+47 2244 9700 lilleherbern.no, [email protected]

+47 7352 1020 sushibar.no

TAKET BERGEN

COPENHAGEN FOOD TOURS

Situated at the top of the famous Zachariasbryggen, this rooftop terrace is the most ideally placed beer garden in Bergen. From here, you can enjoy wonderful views over the town, the fjord or the famous fish market, and enjoy a meal from one of the building’s many excellent restaurants. On a sunny afternoon, there’s no better place to sit and watch the world go by, although the heated lounge and glass ceiling ensures that this is a spot that can be enjoyed all year around.

Taste some of Copenhagen’s best food and culinary specialities, as experienced guides take you on a unique journey through Danish cuisine. In addition to the delicious samples, you will hear about the city’s history, and how its food culture has developed from traditional fare to New Nordic Cuisine. Tours are conducted daily. If you’re travelling through Scandinavia, check out the exciting new tours in Oslo and Stockholm, starting in July 2013.

+47 4501 5800 taket-bergen.no

+45 5012 3645, copenhagen.foodtours.eu [email protected]


18/07/2013 09:40

CITYBOX

TJUVHOLMEN EXECUTIVE SUITES

The city is full of bars. So why do you need another one in your room? Citybox is a modern low-budget hotel, ideal for those looking for an affordable, no-frills hotel experience. Last month, the company opened its brand new hotel in the centre of Oslo, just 500m from Oslo S train station – great news for all moneyconscious visitors to the city. Book online, directly via the Citybox website. Prices start at just NOK500.

Your home away from home, this apartment hotel caters for short- and long-term stays in Oslo’s Tjuvholmen fjord and art district, near to Aker Brygge and public transport links, and is just five minutes’ walk from the city centre. The modern and luxurious apartments, available with one or two bedrooms, and with or without balconies, come fully furnished, while the hotel also offers a lounge with concierge services, a lobby with coffee and tea, a fitness centre and meeting rooms for rental.

citybox.no; Oslo: [email protected], +47 2142 0480 Bergen: [email protected], +47 5531 2500

+47 4748 1910 tjuvholmensuites.no, [email protected]

AUSSIEBAR

RISTORANTE ALLEGRO

Aussiebar is home to the best parties, the best exclusive Aussie and Kiwi beers, the best drinks, the best customers and the best music playing all night long – and you haven’t truly tasted a mojito until you’ve tried one here! Plus, as Aussies, they’re naturally sportsmad, so whenever there’s a game on, they’re certain to be showing it. Locations include Helsinki, Turku and Jyväskylä, and private events are available in each bar. Just remember: this is not a yacht club! For franchising opportunities in Scandinavia, visit the website.

One step inside Ristorante Allegro is all it takes to bring to mind the Billy Joel hit Scenes from an Italian Restaurant. Checkered tablecloths, whitewashed walls, candles and great wine create an authentic Italian atmosphere in the heart of Stavanger, while the classic dishes boast that pure taste you’d generally have to travel to the Boot to find. Flavour is foremost here, with rural Italian cooking the inspiration for its philosophy of keeping things clean and simple.

aussiebar.net


37 Skagen, Stavanger, Norway +47 5155 0266, [email protected]

18/07/2013 09:40

n ⁄ DIRECTORY

DON’T SLEEP YOUR MONEY AWAY!

TAILORING WITH A TWIST

Basic Hotels are centrally located hotels that have what you need for a good night’s sleep. They’ve made it as easy as possible, so you should have a good option when you want a smart and reasonable place to stay, and are not dependent on a full range of services. There are three Basic Hotels located in the centre of Bergen. Despite their low prices, they offer good-quality hotel rooms, which are exquisitely, comfortably furnished, and guarantee a great stay. Rooms start from NOK447 per person.

Suits by Lord’s of Scandinavia are timeless, stylish and formal but with endless opportunities for personalisation and eccentricity. A vast choice of fabrics is available from the world’s finest weavers, including Scabal, Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana and many more. For example, you can get two suits, exclusively tailored in top-quality fabrics, with two Versace silk ties, for DKK 9,990. Right now, ready-to-wear exclusive men’s garments and accessories are on sale. Free parking.

basichotels.no, [email protected] [email protected], [email protected]

Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel, 70 Amager Boulevard, 2300 Copenhagen S, Denmark, +45 3396 5986, lordsc.dk

SOUNDSCOPE PRO-TECT iHUNT

THE NIELSEN WAY

Don’t take chances with your hearing – after all, it’s the only one you’ll ever have. The Soundscope Pro-tect iHunt is designed specifically for shooting, and provides individual protection for your ears when out in the wild. Its optimal fit and amplification of soft sounds makes it possible to easily distinguish where different noises come from, while its design, custom-built just for you, makes it comfortable to wear all day, meaning that it’s always ready to protect you when you need it.

Do you always forget where you put your credit card, mobile phone or keys? Or are you worried about pickpockets? The Norwegian real-estate developer Terje Wiggo Nielsen has found the solution to these problems with the Nielsen, which he designed and has continually improved over the past 40 years. This comfortable leather accessory replaces your wallet, bag and pockets by bringing together all their contents in a single piece. “Take all your important items with you and enjoy the feeling of independence,” says one enthusiast and user for 19 years.

soundscope.se, soundscope.no

thenielsenway.no


18/07/2013 09:40

JUHLS’ SILVERGALLERY

GALLERI CASTENS

Established in 1959, Finnmark’s first silver workshop offers traditional and exclusive jewellery made on the premises, with Regine Juhls’ Tundra collection recognised as a modern classic of Scandinavian jewellery design. Some 50 years on, the eternal wasteland of the Arctic continues to inspire these unique and timeless pieces, while Juhls’ Silvergallery represents a cultural oasis in the heart of Norway’s Lapland, reinforcing the experience of the landscape through art and design. An architectural gem, it promises to both surprise and delight.

Imagine: the elven girl dances through the forest. Quietly, you follow her and observe how the plants – touched by her slender body and sound of her laughter – have turned into silver, holding on to the dew drops which have turned into precious stones. You marvel, gently break off the vines and shape them into jewellery, which now wait to be worn by future light-footed woodland creatures. Such is the inspiration for Karin Castens’ handcrafted jewellery, perfect for everyday princesses and other shameless romantics.

+47 7848 4330 (Kautokeino), +47 5532 4740 (Bryggen, Bergen), juhls.no

gallericastens.dk

MESTERMØTE FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN MALLORCA

THE IBSEN MUSEUM

With its modern infrastructure, fantastic climate and cosmopolitan atmosphere, blended with its unique culture and character, Mallorca is an irresistible destination for second-home buyers. Mallorcafastigheter is the leading Scandinavian real estate agency with 10 years of experience, and is renowned for its excellent selection of properties and personal service. Whether you dream of a charming rural estate, an elegant villa or a luxury apartment, Mallorcafastigheter is certain to find it for you.

Dramas such as A Doll’s House, Ghosts and Peer Gynt cemented playwright Henrik Ibsen’s legacy as one of the greatest artists Norway has ever produced, and his influence is still keenly felt around the world. Now restored to its original splendour, his home is the main attraction of the Ibsen Museum, while the visitor centre also features a fascinating exhibition on his life and work. During 2013, the museum celebrates Munch 150 with the Meeting of Masters: Ibsen – Munch exhibit.

+34 971 220 868 mallorcafastigheter.com, [email protected]

Henrik Ibsens gate 26, Oslo, Norway ibsenmuseet.no


18/07/2013 09:40

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TAILORED LOGISTICS – MADE TO MEASURE YOUR BUSINESS With Damco your company will get a global partner with logistics professionals who understand your business. We tailor solutions to match your needs from single shipments to integrated supply chain management. We are established locally and know languages and cultures all over the world. 7KLVSURYLGHV\RXZLWKVHFXULW\IRUDIDVWDQGÁH[LEOHSURFHVV²ÀWWHGWR\RXU industry and your products.

We want your air cargo to help you to reduce it! Damco is one of the world’s leading providers of freight forwarding, shipping and supply chain management services. For more than 100 years, we have been providing our customers with transportation and logistics solutions that support WKHZD\WKH\ZDQWWRGREXVLQHVVZKHUHYHUWKH\DUHLQWKHZRUOG2XUQHZ(FRHIÀFLHQF\VWUDWHJ\HQDEOHVXVWRPHHWRXU ambitious environmental goals and help both our customers and service providers reduce their environmental impact. :HDUHSDUWRI$30¡OOHU0DHUVNJURXSZLWKPRUHWKDQRIÀFHVDOORYHUWKHZRUOGZLWKRYHUH[SHULHQFHGDQG SURIHVVLRQDOHPSOR\HHVWKDWDQQXDOO\KDQGOHPRUHWKDQPLOOLRQV7(8DQGWRQVRIDLUIUHLJKWJRRGV

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No.96641 Damco Denmark.indd 1

www.damco.com Part of the A.P. Moller - Maersk Group

17/07/2013 16:43

Dreamliner After Norwegian takes delivery of its first 787 Dreamliner, we ask what it means for passengers “People will now be able to fly long-haul at a lower cost to themselves and the environment”

here’s been a fair bit of fanfare around Norwegian’s first delivery of a 787 Dreamliner in June. That’s not just because the plane really is very cool (see main feature p44), and marks a symbolic moment for Norwegian – it’s also because it will make long-haul flying faster, cheaper and easier for you. As Norwegian CEO Bjørn Kjos explained before the Dreamliner’s first flight: “Because of the Dreamliner’s efficiency, people will now be able to fly long-haul at a lower cost to themselves and the environment. It’s the first plane that can be in the air 18 hours a day, because of its

T

lower maintenance, and it’s faster, cutting 40 minutes off the current flying time from Stockholm to Bangkok.” With a further seven Dreamliners on order, Kjos suggested the plane will lead to more Norwegian long-haul destinations beyond the current crop of New York, Bangkok and Fort Lauderdale. “The future is a global competition rather than a regional one and we know Scandinavia is a small market globally. We expect most of the travel to originate in the Far East in the future – we want to be in a position to cater to those travellers. You will see us flying all over the world.”

Top⁄The crew on the Dreamliner’s inaugural flight, led by Torstein Hoås (right) Above⁄Norwegian CEO Bjørn Kjos (right) cuts the ribbon

norwegian.com

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Plane facts Aircraft fleet

Timeline 2002 2000 1993

Boeing 787 Dreamliners The new Boeing 787 Dreamliner served selected European routes from July 2013 before going long-haul. See main feature

Boeing 737-800s The Boeing 737-800 serves all routes in Norwegian’s network. Number of aircraft: 66 Seats: 186/189 Crew: Two pilots and four cabin crew Engines: CFM 56-7B26 Max start weight: 78,999kg Length: 39.5m Height: 12.5m Wingspan: 35.8m Engine thrust: 26,400lbs per engine Cruise speed: 858kph

Norwegian Air Shuttle ASA is incorporated. Operates as a regional airline on behalf of Braathens SAFE with six Fokker F-50 aircraft.

2006 A new system for ticket sales and distribution is launched, radically reducing the airline’s distribution costs.

The Boeing 737300 serves most of Norwegian’s network with the exception of flights to North Africa, the Canary Islands and Dubai. Number of aircraft: 10 Seats: 148 Crew: Two pilots and three cabin crew Engines: CFM 56-3 Max start weight: 61,915kg – 63,276kg Length: 33.4m Height: 11.1m Wingspan: 28.9m Engine thrust: 22,000lbs per engine Cruise speed: 797kph

2005 The low-cost jet operation reports a profit for the first time.

2007 Norwegian places the year’s largest aircraft order in Europe. The Stockholm base is established. The full-scale internet bank Bank Norwegian is launched.

2012 2008

Boeing 737-300s

Norwegian starts operating helicopters and ambulance aircraft through its subsidiary Lufttransport AS, which was spun off in 2002.

Delivery of the first Boeing 737-800. The Copenhagen base is established. The telephone company Call Norwegian is launched.

SAS notifies Norwegian that all contracts with the SAS-acquired Braathens are terminated. Left with no choice, Norwegian starts direct competition against SAS using jet aircraft on domestic routes in Norway.

Norwegian celebrates 10 years in the air. Norwegian purchases 222 new aircraft. This is the largest-ever aircraft acquisition in Europe.

2011

2009

Launch of high-speed inflight internet broadband. Helsinki base is established.

After another successful year, Norwegian is named Market Leader of the Year at the ATW Airline Industry Achievement Awards.

Launch customer of the new Boeing SKY aircraft interiors.

2010

2003 Listed on the Oslo Stock Exchange. Becomes the first provider of ticketless and point-to-point travel in Scandinavia.

2013 Voted Europe’s best low-cost carrier by SkyTrax World Airline Awards. Norwegian opens new hub at London Gatwick. Long-haul flights launch to Bangkok and New York from Oslo and Stockholm, and to Fort LauderdaleFlorida – from Copenhagen, Oslo and Stockholm. Norwegian expands in Germany and launches flights from Cologne/ Bonn, Hamburg and Munich to several Spanish destinations.

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Promotion

“Your hair loss stops and at the same time you see new hair. Your hair becomes much heavier and thicker”

SAY GOODBYE TO HAIR LOSS How a new pill can restore your hair and self-confidence Hair loss can be a nightmare for both men and women. It can make you look less attractive, and also lead to disadvantages within your career and limit you in your partner choice. It can lead to depression, loss of self-confidence and even identity change. Scientists at Oxford promise to make this a thing of the past. Their pill, TRX2, has only been on the market since 2011, but is on the verge of becoming Europe’s best-selling hair loss treatment. TRX2 is based on organic compounds, works far better than existing treatments and has no side-effects whatsoever. “Your hair loss stops and at the same time you see new hair. Your hair will look much bigger; it becomes heavier and thicker,” says Oxford Biolabs CEO Dr Thomas Whitfield. Hair loss treatments often promise a lot without delivering, but TRX2 is backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. According to a study, TRX2 works for 87% of men and women. The results can be impressive – the average hair count increases 35.1%

Norwegian_oxford_August.indd 2

after nine months and 49.2% after 18. Start TRX2 as early as possible in order to increase the chances of fully regaining your hair. TRX2 is suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle, which is sufficient for one month of treatment and costs approximately €49. The manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee if ordered via TRX2’s official website, and ships worldwide.

www.trx2.com [email protected] Oxford Biolabs Ltd, The Oxford Science Park, Oxford, UK

EXCLUSIVE PASSENGER DEAL Order via www.trx2.com and use the coupon code ‘Norwegian’ to receive an exclusive 5 per cent discount. Offer valid until 6th September 2013

18/07/2013 17:00

Fly greener Why the Boeing 787 Dreamliner is the world’s greenest plane 20% better fuel efficiency compared to similar-sized planes

Norwegian has a goal of reducing emissions per flown passenger by 30% between 2008 and 2015.

60% smaller noise footprint More direct routes mean less emissions Carbon fibre composite materials mean less waste and increased opportunities to recycle materials

30%

Civil aviation accounts for 2.1% of Norway’s greenhouse gas emissions. * Statistic taken from Avinor Report 2, Aviation in Norway – Sustainability and Social Benefit, 2011.

Norwegian focuses on keeping emissions low – the way to do that is to invest in new and more environmentally friendly aircraft. Norwegian has one of Europe’s youngest fleets – and also one of its most environmentally friendly.

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Unicef A teacher without a school UNICEF Norway marks the new school year by paying tribute to teachers everywhere – B – C – D…” Issack Billow Kusow is guiding his students through the first crucial steps of learning how to read and write. The classroom is a clearing at the centre of a thicket in a nomadic settlement near Bura, a village in the north of Kenya. He is the lone teacher in a mobile school, which serves 85 students. Study sheets hang from surrounding tree branches. ”A teacher without a school is far more valuable than a school without a teacher,” says UNICEF’s executive director, Anthony Lake. “There is no use building wonderfullooking schools if you don’t have teachers who are able to inspire, transmit knowledge and see the individual needs of each student.” This applies to Norway, Kenya or any other country. Which is why UNICEF Norway has decided to start the new school year by paying tribute to teachers, on behalf of the rising generation. The message is: “Thank you for being our teacher – with big eyes to see everyone, good ears to listen to everyone, long arms to embrace everyone, lots of knowledge to share with everyone, quick feet to be in

WORDS NINA BUL L JØRGENSEN PHOTO CHRIST INE NESBI T T

‘‘A

Issack Billow Kusow teaches at a classroom with a difference in Kenya

many places at the same time, warm hands to hold and a heart of gold with extra love for the ones who need it most…” Research shows that a good atmosphere is crucial for children to benefit from classes and learn – and the teacher is the most important element in creating such an atmosphere. The Millennium Development Goals and other development goals have for many years focused on building schools and enrolling as many children as possible in the schools. There have been great results: in the last 10 years the number of children out of school has almost been cut in half; 55 million more children now go to primary school. But there are still reasons to worry. Even having attended school, more than 250 million students in the fourth grade are not able to read and write.

“The time has come to focus not only on the quantity, but also on the quality of the education and the importance of good teachers,” says Bernt G Apeland, the secretary general of UNICEF Norway. “Perfect school buildings, solid books and high-tech teaching material – none of these can replace a good teacher.” The teachers of Norway have had a well-deserved summer holiday ahead of a new school year. In the meantime, Issack Kusow will pack up his mobile school to move on with the nomadic community, which migrates seasonally. The new classroom will be whatever he finds outdoors. His students don’t have chairs, desks, computers or any other modern equipment. But they have a teacher who cares about the future of each and every one of them. unicef.no/skole

Norwegian and UNICEF have been working together for children since 2007. As a Signature Partner to UNICEF, Norwegian supports the organisation’s work giving children the best possible start in life, and a safe and happy childhood.

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17/07/2013 14:41

Menu Norway domestic flights Only available on

Sweden and Finland domestic flights

Express

Fresh food NOK Breakfast box & hot drink* 70 Sandwich 55

Fresh food SEK EUR Breakfast box & hot drink* 80 9.50

Fresh food NOK DKK SEK EUR Breakfast box & hot drink* 70 70 80 9.50

Snacks Muffin Chip and dip Snack box Sørlandschips Nuts Kids box Milk chocolate

25 45 55 25 25 55 20


30 50 65 30 30 65 25

3.50 6 7.50 3.50 3.50 7.50 2.50


25 45 55 25 25 55 20

25 45 55 25 25 55 20

30 50 65 30 30 65 25

Hot beverages Coffee Tea

25 25


30 30

3.50 3.50


25 25

25 25

30 3.50 30 3.50

Soft drinks Water Pepsi Pepsi Max Royal Club Orange 7UP Orange juice

25 25 25 25 25 20


30 30 30 30 30 25

3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 2.50


25 25 25 25 25 20

25 25 25 25 25 20

30 30 30 30 30 25

3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 2.50

Alcoholic beverages Red wine White wine Beer Champagne

50 50 40 90


55 55 45 105

6.50 6.50 5.50 12


50 50 40 90

50 50 40 90

55 55 45 105

6.50 6.50 5.50 12

45 45 70

Combo deals Hot beverage & muffin Hot beverage & water Wine & water

55 55 80

6.50 6.50 9.50

Combo deals Hot beverage & muffin Hot beverage & water Wine & water

45 45 70

45 45 70

55 6.50 55 6.50 80 9.50

International flights under 1 hour 20 minutes

flights over 1 hour

Combo deals Hot beverage & muffin Hot beverage & water Wine & water Sandwich, Sørlandschips & soft drink

3.50 6 7.50 3.50 3.50 7.50 2.50

95

International menus are distributed on board

We prefer

* Breakfast boxes available on flights before 10am On domestic flights within Norway, Sweden and Finland, we prefer payment by credit card. On Express flights we only accept payment by credit card. Acting in the name and for the account of Gate Retail Onboard GmbH

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Breakfast

Soft drinks

Crisps & snacks

Crackers & nuts n/

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Entertainment NEW! Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner ⁄ Android Inflight Entertainment System Navigate by touching and swiping the screen like any Android tablet

Choose from hundreds of hours of free entertainment, right at your fingertips thanks to the world’s first Android Inflight Entertainment System on the Boeing Dreamliner 787-8

Be inspired by the coolest interactive 3D map out there.

On the Dreamliner use the seatback monitor to call the flight attendant or turn on your reading light.

Use the digital snack bar to order snacks. This is only available on long-haul flights and on selected short flights.

Choose the best new movies or albums, play games or even plug in your iPhone and edit photos.

Boeing 737-800 ⁄On the monitors/music Outbound shows

Inbound shows

All-Nordic boarding music (also on 787)

Flights from Denmark, Finland,

Flights to Denmark, Finland, Norway, Spain,

This Old Routine (First Aid Kit), Disharmony (Cody), Look At

Norway, Spain, Sweden and the UK

Sweden and the UK

The Night (Sin Fang), Leyndarmal (Asgeir Trausti), Antaudun

Octopus – Seasaw

Bendito Machine IV

(Anna Puu), Line Of Fire (Junip), House by the Sea (Moddi),

Just Kidding

Oggy and the Cockroaches – The Airship House

Seasick (With A Light Heart), Far Away (Mhoo), Only You

Daffy Duck – Duck Amuck

Uncle Max – Uncle Max Builds a Shed

(Lisa Ekdahl), Heime nå (Maria Arredondo), I’m Waiting

Pixels

Ziggy and Sharko – The Coach

Here (David Lynch & Lykke Li), Hærra (Ásgeir Trausti), Try

LOL

Cheeky Cam

(Bugge Wesseltoft, Sidsel Endresen), Sanctuary (Flunk),

Shaun the Sheep – Draw the Line

Copia A

Little Baby Monkey (Girls In Airports), Closer (Beady Belle)

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Boeing 737-800 ⁄ Video on demand The payment won’t go through. What should I do? Try again or please use another card. Sometimes we fly over areas where we can’t get ground authorisation; this should not occur often and we are working on a solution. What happens if there is an error with the playback of my rental? It should rarely happen if you have validated your device. If it happens, please write to our customer service at post@ norwegian.no and we will come back to you as soon as possible.

You can now use your smartphone, tablet or laptop to rent and watch movies and TV shows. We answer the key questions What is video on demand? Video on demand (VOD) allows you to select, watch and rent movies and TV shows on your own device. How does the technology work? VOD allows you to watch movies directly from your smartphone, laptop or tablet. The content is streamed directly to your device from a server on board. Content is not streamed from the inflight WiFi, so internet browsing capacity is not affected. What operating systems does it work with? VOD works on most operating systems (such as Android, iOS, Windows etc), but you must perform a device test before being allowed to rent video content.

What does it cost? The service costs €7 per movie rental or €7 for the complete TV package. How long is rental valid for? You have access to the movie or TV package for 24 hours on Norwegian’s aircraft. So if you fly out in the morning and back in the evening, for example, you can still watch your rental on your second – or third, fourth or fifth – flight during a 24-hour period. That’s great! Does the rental only work on the aircraft? Yes. You can only watch your rentals on board Norwegian’s aircraft. How does the payment system work? You pay by entering your credit card and payment details on the portal. The system processes your payment through a bank authorisation. We accept any major credit cards and are fully PCI security standards compliant.

You offer this cool R-rated movie and I would really like to watch it, but there is a child sitting next to me so I’m not sure if it’s a good idea. Should I watch it? Please be considerate if you are sitting near children or others who may find some of a movie’s content offensive. In such cases, please choose another movie. Is the service available on the 787 Dreamliner aircraft? No. The service is not available on the 787 yet. Passengers have access to free video on demand through their personal seatback monitors on the 787 (see left). I watched a cool action movie with a violent dinosaur. Does Norwegian support violent dinosaurs since they offer this type of entertainment? Of course not. Norwegian does not support violent dinosaurs or any other type of violent behaviour. Norwegian cannot take responsibility for the content of TV shows, movies and other programmes shown – nor the type of entertainment our customers choose. norwegian.com/vod

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Route network ROUTES FROM NORWAY

From Bergen Alicante Antalya Barcelona Berlin/Schönefeld Crete/Chania Copenhagen Corfu Dubrovnik Edinburgh Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Krakow London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma Murcia Nice Paris/Orly Rome/Fiumicino Salzburg Split Stockholm Warsaw From Bodø Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas From Harstad/Narvik Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas From Haugesund Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas From Molde Alicante From Oslo/ Gardermoen Aalborg Algarve/Faro Alicante Amsterdam Antalya Athens

Bangkok Barcelona Belgrade Berlin/Schönefeld Bilbao Billund Bordeaux Bratislava Budapest Burgas Cologne/Bonn Corfu Corsica/Ajaccio Copenhagen Crete/Chania Crete/Heraklion Cyprus/Larnaca Dalaman Dubai Dublin Dubrovnik Edinburgh Ft LauderdaleFlorida Fuerteventura Gdańsk Geneva Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Grenoble Hamburg Helsinki Ibiza Istanbul/Sabiha Kefalonia Kiev Kos Krakow Lanzarote Lefkada Lisbon London/Gatwick Madeira Malaga Mallorca/Palma Malta Manchester Marrakech Milan/Malpensa

Menorca Munich Murcia New York/JFK Nice Palanga/ Klaipeda Paris/Orly Pisa/Tuscany Prague Pristina Pula Reykjavik Rhodes Riga Rijeka Rome/Fiumicino St Petersburg Salzburg Santorini Sarajevo Sardinia/Olbia Sicily/Catania Split Stockholm Szczecin Tallinn Tenerife Varna Venice Vienna Vilnius Visby Warsaw From Oslo/Rygge Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Malaga From Sandefjord/Torp Alicante Antalya Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma

Nice Tenerife From Stavanger Alicante Berlin/Schönefeld Dubrovnik Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Krakow London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma Manchester Murcia Nice Salzburg Split Warsaw From Tromsø Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas London/Gatwick

From Trondheim Alicante Antalya Berlin/Schönefeld Copenhagen Corfu Dubrovnik Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Krakow London/Gatwick Malaga Murcia Nice Riga Split From Ålesund Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas London/Gatwick

NEW ROUTE

FT LAUDERDALE Fly Oslo-Ft Lauderdale from 30 November. Book tickets now. norwegian.com

NEW YORK USA

FT LAUDERDALE

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TROMSØ HARSTAD/NARVIK

ICELAND

BODØ

REYKJAVIK

TRONDHEIM MOLDE FINLAND

ÅLESUND

NORWAY SWEDEN OSLO/ GARDERMOEN BERGEN HAUGESUND

OSLO/ RYGGE

STAVANGER

SANDEFJORD/ TORP

HELSINKI ST PETERSBURG

STOCKHOLM TALLINN ESTONIA

RUSSIA VISBY

AALBORG

LATVIA

RIGA

THAILAND BANGKOK

EDINBURGH BILLUND

COPENHAGEN

LITHUANIA PALANGA/KLAIPEDA VILNIUS GDANSK

IRELAND

MANCHESTER

HAMBURG

DUBLIN

BERLIN/ SCHÖNEFELD

AMSTERDAM UNITED KINGDOM

BELARUS

SZCZECIN POLAND

WARSAW

NETHERLANDS GERMANY

LONDON/GATWICK

KIEV

BELGIUM

COLOGNE/BONN

PRAGUE

KRAKOW

CZECH REPUBLIC

LUX.

UKRAINE

MUNICH

SLOVAKIA

PARIS/ORLY VIENNA SALZBURG AUSTRIA

GENEVA

BRATISLAVA

SWITZ.

FRANCE

MOLDOVA

BUDAPEST HUNGARY

SLOVENIA GRENOBLE MILAN/MALPENSA VENICE ITALY

BORDEAUX

PISA/ TUSCANY

BILBAO NICE

CORSICA/ AJACCIO BARCELONA

PORTUGAL SPAIN

SARDINIA/ OLBIA

ROME/ FIUMICINO

ROMANIA

CROATIA PULA RIJEKA

SERBIA BELGRADE

BOSNIA & HERZ. SARAJEVO SPLIT PRISTINA DUBROVNIK MONTE NEGRO KOSOVO

MACEDONIA ISTANBUL/SABIHA

MENORCA MALLORCA/PALMA

GREECE

ALICANTE MALAGA

BURGAS

ALBANIA

IBIZA

LISBON

VARNA BULGARIA

SICILY/ CATANIA

MURCIA

CORFU LEFKADA KEFALONIA

TURKEY ATHENS KOS

ALGARVE/FARO SANTORINI

MALTA

DALAMAN ANTALYA RHODES CYPRUS/LARNACA

CRETE/CHANIA

SYRIA

CRETE/HERAKLION LEBANON MARRAKECH WESTERN SAHARA

TUNISIA

MOROCCO ISRAEL JORDAN EGYPT

MADEIRA ALGERIA LANZAROTE

LIBYA

FUERTEVENTURA

TENERIFE

DUBAI

GRAN CANARIA/ LAS PALMAS

UAE

Direct flights – more combinations can be made on norwegian.com

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SVALBARD

LONGYEARBYEN

ROUTES WITHIN NORWAY

From Alta Oslo/Gardermoen Tromsø

From Stavanger Bergen Oslo/Gardermoen

From Bergen Harstad/Narvik (Evenes) Kristiansand Oslo/Gardermoen Sandefjord/Torp Stavanger Trondheim Ålesund

From Tromsø Alta Kirkenes Oslo/Gardermoen Trondheim

From Harstad/Narvik (Evenes) Bergen Sandefjord/Torp Oslo/Gardermoen Trondheim From Kirkenes Oslo/Gardermoen Tromsø From Kristiansand Bergen Oslo/Gardermoen

ALTA

LAKSELV

KIRKENES

TROMSØ ANDENES BARDUFOSS

From Trondheim Bergen Harstad/Narvik (Evenes) Oslo/Gardermoen Sandefjord/Torp Tromsø

HARSTAD/ NARVIK

BODØ

From Ålesund Bergen Oslo/Gardermoen

NORWEGIAN SEA

TRONDHEIM

From Oslo/Gardermoen Alta MOLDE Andenes ÅLESUND Bardufoss NORWAY Bergen Bodø Harstad/Narvik (Evenes) BERGEN Haugesund Kirkenes OSLO/ GARDERMOEN Kristiansand Lakselv HAUGESUND SANDEFJORD/ TORP Longyearbyen Molde STAVANGER Stavanger SKAGERRAK Tromsø KRISTIANSAND Trondheim Ålesund From Sandefjord/Torp NORTH SEA Bergen Harstad/Narvik (Evenes) Trondheim

FINLAND GULF OF BOTHNIA

SWEDEN

GULF OF FINLAND

DENMARK BALTIC SEA


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Join Norwegian’s loyalty program for free!

What’s the value of 1 CashPoint?

The answer might surprise you.

Find out here:

norwegian.com/reward

No.00000 HOUSE AD Reward.indd 1

08/07/2013 17:01

LEGAL ASSISTANCE NORWAY–ITALY

Langseth Advokatfirma DA co-operates with lawyers in Italy including Norwegian-speaking attorney-atlaw Lorenzo Spallina from Studio Spallina in Rome, Italy. We offer assistance related to various Norwegian/ Italian issues which includes:

Langseth Advokatfirma DA cooperates

- Purchase and Sale of Real Estate - Establishment of Companies - Agency Contracts - Inheritance Law/Law of Succession etc. - Family Law - Tort Law

For more information, please contact attorney-at-law Nina Reiersen, [email protected] and visit our website at www.langsethadvokat.no Langseth Advokatfirma is a midsized law firm that offers legal assistance in all central areas of law at competitive rates. We cooperate extensively with corresponding law firms in other countries.

116.indd 1

LANGSETH Advokatfirma DA Haakon VIIs gt. 2, PB 1371 Vika, N-0114 OSLO, Tel. +47 22 42 42 42 [email protected] www.langsethadvokat.no

17/07/2013 09:28

ROUTES FROM DENMARK

From Aalborg Alicante Copenhagen Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma Oslo/Gardermoen

Athens Barcelona Belgrade Bergen Berlin/Schönefeld Bratislava Budapest Burgas Corfu Crete/Chania Crete/Heraklion Cyprus/Larnaca Dubai Dublin Dubrovnik Edinburgh Ft LauderdaleFlorida

From Billund Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Oslo/Gardermoen From Copenhagen Aalborg Agadir Algarve/Faro Alicante Amsterdam

Geneva Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Grenoble Helsinki Ibiza Karup Kos Krakow Lisbon Liverpool

London/Gatwick Madeira Madrid Malaga Mallorca/Palma Malta Marrakech Marseille Milan/Malpensa SWEDEN

TRONDHEIM

FINLAND

NORWAY HELSINKI

BERGEN OSLO/ GARDERMOEN

STOCKHOLM ESTONIA

AALBORG

EDINBURGH DENMARK KARUP

RIGA

LATVIA

LITHUANIA

COPENHAGEN

BELARUS

BILLUND IRELAND

LIVERPOOL

DUBLIN

NEW ROUTE

UNITED KINGDOM

NETHERLANDS AMSTERDAM

LONDON/GATWICK

FT LAUDERDALE

BELGIUM LUX.

Fly CopenhagenFt Lauderdale from 29 November. Flights are on sale now. norwegian.com

Montpellier Nice Oslo/Gardermoen Paris/Orly Pisa/Tuscany Prague Rhodes Riga Rome Salzburg Santorini Sarajevo Sardinia/Olbia Sicily/Catania Split Stockholm Tenerife Trondheim Venice Zagreb

BERLIN/ SCHÖNEFELD POLAND

GERMANY PRAGUE

KRAKOW

UKRAINE

CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA

PARIS/ORLY

AUSTRIA MOLDOVA BRATISLAVA SALZBURG BUDAPEST HUNGARY SWITZ. GENEVA SLOVENIA VENICE ROMANIA CROATIA GRENOBLE MILAN/MALPENSA BELGRADE ZAGREB BOSNIA MONTPELLIER & HERZ. SERBIA ITALY NICE SARAJEVO BULGARIA PISA/ SPLIT MONTE MARSEILLE BURGAS KOSOVO TUSCANY NEGRO DUBROVNIK ROME MACEDONIA SARDINIA/ PORTUGAL MADRID BARCELONA OLBIA ALBANIA MALLORCA/PALMA LISBON GREECE SPAIN TURKEY ALICANTE IBIZA CORFU SICILY/CATANIA KOS MALAGA ATHENS ALGARVE/FARO SANTORINI RHODES MALTA SYRIA CYPRUS/LARNACA CRETE/CHANIA CRETE/HERAKLION LEBANON TUNISIA FRANCE

USA FT LAUDERDALE

MADEIRA

MOROCCO MARRAKECH

ISRAEL JORDAN

AGADIR TENERIFE GRAN CANARIA/ LAS PALMAS

ALGERIA

LIBYA

WESTERN SAHARA

EGYPT

DUBAI UAE

MAURITANIA


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ROUTES FROM SWEDEN

From Gothenburg Alicante Barcelona Crete/Chania Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma Nice Pristina Rome/Fiumicino Salzburg Stockholm Tenerife

From Stockholm Agadir Algarve/Faro Alicante Amsterdam Athens Bangkok Barcelona Belgrade Bergen Berlin/Schönefeld Bordeaux Budapest Burgas Copenhagen Corfu Corsica/Ajaccio Crete/Chania Cyprus/Larnaca BERGEN Dubai

From Karlstad Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas From Malmö Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Stockholm

Dubrovnik Edinburgh Ft LauderdaleFlorida Geneva Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Grenoble Gothenburg Helsinki Kiruna Kos Krakow London/Gatwick

Paris/Orly Pisa/Tuscany Prague Pula Rhodes Riga Rome/Fiumicino Salzburg Santorini Sarajevo Sardinia/Olbia Sicily/Palermo Split Tel Aviv Tenerife Umeå Vaasa Venice Visby

Luleå Malaga Mallorca/Palma Malmö Manchester Marrakech Munich New York/JFK Nice Oslo/Gardermoen

KIRUNA

LULEÅ

UMEÅ

SWEDEN VAASA

NORWAY

FINLAND

HELSINKI STOCKHOLM KARLSTAD

OSLO/ GARDERMOEN

ESTONIA

GOTHENBURG

VISBY

RIGA

From Umeå Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas

LATVIA

EDINBURGH DENMARK

MALMÖ

LITHUANIA

COPENHAGEN

MANCHESTER

IRELAND

NEW ROUTE

UNITED KINGDOM

BELARUS

BERLIN/ SCHÖNEFELD

AMSTERDAM NETHERLANDS

POLAND

FT LAUDERDALE Fly StockholmFt Lauderdale from 1 December. Flights are on sale now. norwegian.com

LONDON/GATWICK

BELGIUM

GERMANY UKRAINE

PARIS/ORLY SLOVAKIA

MUNICH AUSTRIA

SALZBURG FRANCE GENEVA

SWITZ. VENICE

PORTUGAL SPAIN

FT LAUDERDALE ALGARVE/FARO

THAILAND BANGKOK ROMANIA

BELGRADE BOSNIA & HERZ. SERBIA SARAJEVO PISA/ SPLIT PRISTINA TUSCANY MONTE BULGARIA BURGAS CORSICA/ DUBROVNIK NEGRO KOSOVO AJACCIO ROME/FIUMICINO MACEDONIA BARCELONA SARDINIA/ ALBANIA OLBIA MALLORCA/PALMA GREECE CORFU ALICANTE SICILY/PALERMO ATHENS KOS NICE

NEW YORK

MOLDOVA

BUDAPEST HUNGARY

SLOVENIA CROATIA

GRENOBLE

BORDEAUX

USA

KRAKOW

PRAGUE CZECH REPUBLIC

LUX.

ITALY

PULA

SANTORINI

MALAGA

TURKEY

RHODES SYRIA

CYPRUS/LARNACA CRETE/CHANIA LEBANON MOROCCO

TUNISIA TEL AVIV

MARRAKECH

ISRAEL JORDAN

AGADIR EGYPT ALGERIA

TENERIFE GRAN CANARIA/ LAS PALMAS

WESTERN SAHARA


LIBYA DUBAI UAE

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Our mission is to make it possible for everyone to travel more often. Instead of making you pay for an ”all inclusive” ticket, instead of charging you for luggage you might not need, a newspaper you’ve already read or the cup of coffee you didn’t want, we simply give you the art of sensible travel – a ticket, no nonsense included, on almost four hundred direct routes – so you can travel more often and choose to:

Spend your money on whatever you like. Wellies £125

Leather gloves £35

Silk tie £50

From 26 destinations direct to

Hand made leather shoes £390

London

£

from / one way

Fish and chips £5

25

50 incl. taxes

No nonsense included

London bus souvenir £5

Top Price Theatre Tickets £62,50

Football £3

Leather pumps £500

Pint £3,65

Tailor made shirt £110

*Example based on one way ticket fare from Malaga to London. Product prices are approximate retail prices, based on a random selection of items easily purchased in London. Tickets to The Lion King and other London shows can be purchased from the theatrepeople.com shops at Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus Underground Stations.

No.00000 HOUSE AD London Inflight 1pp.indd 1

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120.indd 1

Ƭ ǤǤ $TXDPDULQD%DUUDQFRGHOD9HUJD3DWDODYDFD 7HOQH[WWR$QIL

18/07/2013 14:56

ROUTES FROM FINLAND

From Helsinki Alicante Athens Barcelona Budapest Burgas Copenhagen Corfu Crete/Chania Dublin Dubrovnik Gran Canaria/Las Palmas Ivalo Kittilä London/Gatwick Malaga Mallorca/Palma Nice Oslo/Gardermoen Oulu Paris/Orly Prague Rhodes Rome/Fiumicino Rovaniemi Salzburg Split Stockholm Tenerife Venice

From Oulu Alicante Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Helsinki Tenerife

IVALO

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From Vaasa Stockholm

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PARIS/ORLY

SLOVAKIA SALZBURG AUSTRIA

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SLOVENIA

FRANCE

MOLDOVA

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CROATIA

ITALY

BOSNIA & HERZ.

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SERBIA

SPLIT

MONTE DUBROVNIK NEGRO KOSOVO ROME/FIUMICINO

PORTUGAL

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ALBANIA SPAIN MALLORCA/PALMA

CORFU

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ATHENS RHODES CRETE/CHANIA TUNISIA

MOROCCO

ALGERIA TENERIFE EGYPT GRAN CANARIA/ WESTERN LAS PALMAS SAHARA MAURITANIA

LIBYA


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ROUTES FROM THE UK AND GERMANY

From the UK

From Germany

From Edinburgh Bergen Copenhagen Oslo/Gardermoen Stockholm

From Berlin/Schönefeld Copenhagen Oslo/Gardermoen Stockholm

NEW ROUTES

Malaga (1 Nov) Oslo/Gardermoen Tenerife (27 Oct)

Fly from Cologne/Bonn, Hamburg and Munich to several Spanish destinations this autumn. Flights are on sale now. norwegian.com

TROMSØ

From Munich Alicante (31 Oct) Malaga (1 Nov) Oslo/Gardermoen Stockholm Tenerife (29 Oct)

From Cologne/Bonn Alicante (from 1 Nov) Gran Canaria/Las Palmas (28 Oct) Malaga (31 Oct) Oslo/Gardermoen Tenerife (28 Oct)

From London/Gatwick Aalborg Algarve/Faro Alicante Barcelona Bergen Copenhagen Dubrovnik Fuerteventura Gothenburg Gran Canaria/ Las Palmas Helsinki Ibiza Lanzarote Malaga Mallorca/Palma Nice Oslo/Gardermoen Rome/Fiumicino Sandefjord/Torp Split Stavanger Stockholm Tenerife Tromsø Trondheim Ålesund

GERMANY - SPAIN

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TRONDHEIM

FINLAND ÅLESUND

From Hamburg Alicante (1 Nov) Gran Canaria/Las Palmas (27 Oct)

NORWAY OSLO/ GARDERMOEN

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HELSINKI STOCKHOLM

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122\n

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No.93808 Kreativ Dental.indd 1

10/06/2013 11:36

The journey From browsing our Lowfare calendar to using Flex tickets and surfing the web with our onboard WiFi, see how Norwegian makes your trip easier How to get in touch with us www.norwegian.com From Norway: 815 21 815 From Denmark: +45 7080 7880 From Sweden: +46 (0)770 457 700 From Finland: +358 (0)9 2310 1600 From Spain: +34 902 848 080 From the United Kingdom: +44 (0)843 3780 888 From other countries: +47 2149 0015

If you’re travelling with just hand luggage and your travel documents, you can pass straight through security without checking in on many of our flights.

Use your mobile phone as your travel document and get information about changes to your flight via SMS, all for free.

It’s easy to travel light, with up to 10kg of hand luggage. Or you can choose to put a bag in the hold.

If you want cancellation protection, you can take it out directly at norwegian.com

Start

Before buying

Check our easy-to-use Lowfare calendar at norwegian.com

Use our mobile phone app to check fares and flight information.

Check where the airport is. We only fly to centrally located airports.

Choose from one of several departures a day to your destination.

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In the air Apart Apar p t from from readi rreading eading ng this thiss magazine, maga agazine zine,, you you can can rent rent movies mo es and movi and TV T V shows show ws orr surf surff the web.

2014, 014, we will 014 w hav ve 70 7 Byy 2014, have ne clea cle ner airc ne a raft af . new cleaner aircraft. We We’r e e on track tra ra ack for for a 30 We’re e cent ce e reduction reduct red uct on ucti n in in per CO2 emi emissions em m ssio ssions ns betwe b between etween etw etwe en CO 2008-2015. 2008-201 2008 -20115. 5

You You can ca surf r the rf he web eb e while ying, w whil ile flying ing,, completely comple l tely ely ly free. free fre ee.. We’re W ’re We ’re Europe’s Eur p Euro pe’ss rstt airlin airline offer firs first firs ai rlin rl i e to to off o of f er WiFi. onbo onboard onb board ar WiF WiFi Fii.

Choose you want to Choo hoo oose se e iiff yo range tryy the he rang ran n of food and nd drink drin dri rink available onboard onbo ar on flights ard an hour. over er a

All electronic devices must, for safety reasons, be turned off during take-off and landing. If you want to use an electronic device on board, it must be set to “Flight mode” before being turned off so that only WiFi is activated when you start it, not the GSM transmitter. You can use your device as soon as the “Fasten seatbelt” sign has been turned off.

Choose if you want to pay extra to reserve a seat.

At yo your dest destination Enrol in our frequent flyer programme and save money on your next flight.

There are more than 550 car rental companies available at norwegian.com/ car-rental

n choose c ch You can to stay at one of 250,000 hotels around the world at norwegian.com/ hotels

Before flying You can change your ticket up to 30 minutes before departure – Flex tickets may be changed free of charge.

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&UIOJLJT"OUJTUBTTFPT4U $IBMBOESJ "UIFOT (SFFDF .PCJMF IUUQXXXJWGFNCSZPHSFO

No.96374 Embio.indd 1

18/07/2013 16:26

Hero in focus To celebrate the 150th anniversary of Norwegian Edvard Munch’s birth, here are seven things you need to know about The Scream artist

3

An early move to Paris, where he was influenced by the work of Gauguin and van Gogh, ended when Munch’s father died in November 1889. It triggered perhaps the first of the artist’s breakdowns; over the years he was admitted to sanatoriums in Kornhaug and Copenhagen.

Edvard Munch 12 December 1863 23 January 1944

4

Munch had to endure criticism throughout his career: The Sick Child (1886), based on his favourite sister’s death, caused a scandal as it was judged to be “slapdash and unfinished”; an 1892 solo show in Berlin was described as an “insult to art” and closed after a week.

5

In 1898 he met Tulla Larsen, and a year later they travelled to the south of France and Italy, but broke up spectacularly in September 1902 when Munch shot himself in the left hand. Larsen was the inspiration for such paintings as The Death of Marat I and Still Life (The Murderess).

6

Munch’s cycle The Frieze of Life – A Poem of Life, Love and Death was first shown in Berlin in 1902. He revisited themes in works including Madonna, Vampire and The Scream, one version of which – from 1895 – became the most expensive painting sold at auction when it went for nearly US$120 million (NOK705m) last year.

7

GE T T Y

1

Edvard Munch was born in Løten, Norway, in 1863; his father was an army doctor who moved the family to Kristiania (now Oslo) to supplement his income. Edvard’s mother died of tuberculosis in 1868 and his aunt took over the five children’s upbringing.

2

In 1879 the sickly Munch enrolled at the Kristiania Technical College, in line with his father’s wishes, but switched to the Royal College of Art and Sculpture in 1881, when he produced the first of his famous self-portraits and fell in with bohemians like nihilist Hans Jæger.

The Nazis confiscated 82 of his “degenerate” artworks in Germany in 1937 and Munch avoided all contact with them when Germany invaded Norway in 1940. In 1944 he died at Ekely, where he had lived for 28 years, and bequeathed his entire estate of nearly 24,000 works of art to the city of Oslo. Anniversary celebrations in Norway continue until the end of 2013, including major show Munch 150 (ends 13 October) munch150.no Norwegian flies to Oslo from nearly 100 destinations. Book flights at norwegian.com

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Tail fin heroes Meet Norwegian’s tail fin heroes – 63 legends from Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland

Niels Henrik Abel Norwegian mathematician

HC Andersen Danish writer

Kristian Birkeland Norwegian natural scientist

Peter Christen Asbjørnsen Norwegian folklorist

Jens Glad Balchen Norwegian professor

John Bauer Swedish artist

Elsa Beskow Swedish author

André Bjerke Norwegian writer

Villhelm Bjerknes Norwegian meteorologist

Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson Norwegian writer

Karen Blixen Danish author

Tycho Brahe Danish astronomer

Georg Brandes Danish literary critic

Ole Bull Norwegian violinist

Erik Bye Norwegian artist

Minna Canth Finnish writer and activist

Ivo Caprino Norwegian film director

Anders Celsius Swedish astronomer

Camilla Collett Norwegian writer

Aril Edvardsen Norwegian evangelist

Thorbjørn Egner Norwegian writer

Sam Eyde Norwegian entrepreneur

Johan Falkberget Norwegian author

Kirsten Flagstad Norwegian opera singer

Wenche Foss Norwegian actress

Greta Garbo Swedish actress

Edvard Grieg Norwegian romantic composer

Helmer Hanssen Norwegian polar explorer

Piet Hein Danish philosopher

Sonja Henie Norwegian figure skater

Ludvig Holberg Danish-Norwegian writer

Henrik Ibsen Norwegian playwright

Gidsken Jakobsen Norwegian aviation pioneer

Ludvig Walentin Karlsen Norwegian preacher

Søren Kierkegaard Danish philosopher

Helge Ingstad Norwegian explorer

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Christian Krohg Norwegian painter

Oda Krohg Norwegian painter

Selma Lagerlöf Swedish author

Carl Larsson Swedish artist

Jenny Lind Swedish opera singer

Carl von Linné Swedish natural scientist

Max Manus Norwegian resistance hero

Jørgen Moe Norwegian folklorist

Edvard Munch Norwegian artist

Fridtjof Nansen Norwegian explorer

Asta Nielsen Danish actress

Christina Nilsson Swedish soprano

Aasmund Olavsson Vinje Norwegian writer

Fredrikke Marie Qvam Norwegian campaigner for women’s rights

Povel Ramel Swedish entertainer

Knud Rasmussen Danish arctic explorer

Johan Ludvig Runeberg Finland’s national poet

Aksel Sandemose Norwegian author

Amalie Skram Norwegian author

Otto Sverdrup Norwegian polar explorer

Evert Taube Swedish poet

Geirr Tveitt Norwegian composer

Jørn Utzon Danish architect

Gustav Vigeland Norwegian sculptor

Norwegian and our tail fin heroes Henrik Wergeland Norwegian poet

HC Ørsted Danish physicist

Anders Zorn Swedish artist

When Norwegian entered Norway’s domestic market in 2002, we challenged a wellestablished and long-lasting airline monopoly. So it felt natural for us to adorn the tails of our aircraft with Norwegian legends who have pushed the boundaries, challenged the established order of things and inspired others in a positive way. And after establishing ourselves in Sweden, Denmark and Finland, we have become a Nordic company – something reflected in our heroes, from Swedish actress Greta Garbo to Finland’s national poet, Johan Ludvig Runeberg. Our tail fin heroes are an interesting lot – Henrik Ibsen (1828-1906) was described as the best dramatist since Shakespeare; Søren Kierkegaard (1813-1855) was the original existentialist philosopher; and Denmark’s Knud Rasmussen (1879-1933) has been called the “father of Eskimology”. Read more about our heroes at norwegian.com

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Your destination London You, the reader, pick your favourite spots in the British capital

inakv ordered a full English breakfast. Soho’s Star Café (thestarcafe. co.uk) has been serving them for 80 years

In Little Venice, north of Paddington, you can take a boat trip, hang out or, like mimmi0, hire a bike and cycle along the canal path

london_student recommends the streets and alleyways around Hampstead for “restaurants, cafés, exciting stores and classy vintage shops”

This month’s winner!

Now at the Queen’s Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, Les Misérables (lesmis.com/uk) opened in London in 1985. alexandrasae caught this work in progress

A colourful shot by mackeykatrina of the crowds at Piccadilly Circus, home to Albert Gilbert’s Eros statue “Can you believe this fountain-filled plaza used to be a humble parking lot?” asks jimikaos of Somerset House (somersethouse. org.uk), which hosts exhibitions and openair film screenings this summer

“The best concert ever!” says stinemberg, who caught British-Basque band Crystal Fighters at music venue Koko (koko.uk.com), near Camden

Create our Tallinn guide and win trips! Every month, we create a city guide based on recommendations by you, the reader. For our October issue, we’re looking for tips and Instagram pictures of Tallinn. They can be restaurants, bars, things to do or anything you can think of – the more interesting the better. Upload a picture and a tip to our Instagram using the hashtag #storbytur and #Tallinn by 31 August 2013, and you’ll be in with the chance to not only appear on the pages of this magazine, but to win a trip for two with direct short-haul flights from your city of departure. There’s a maximum of three tips per reader. Prizes are for return flights only (no connections), winners must be over 18 and flights must be used within six months of being issued. statigr.am/tag/storbytur

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No.93450 Eika.indd 1

27/06/2013 16:17

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No.95080 U rmakemester Tideman.indd 1

16/07/2013 16:18