International Joint Conference on Environmental and

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Nov 19, 2010 - Ágnes LAKATOS. Black Magic; The ... Zoltán KOCZOR, Katalin NÉMETH ERDODI, Vera GÖNDÖR, ... Katalin Németh Erdődi, Tibor Gregász.
International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies November 18-19, 2010



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Impressum A publication of Rejtõ S�ndor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering, �buda University.

ISBN 978-615-5018-08-4 The conference is organized as a part of Hungarian Scientific Season.

Venue �buda University Doberd� �t 6, H-1034 Budapest, Hungary Contact Ildik� P�sztor E-mail Welcome from the General Chair It is my great pleasure to welcome all of you to the Conference of Rejtõ S�ndor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering. This conference is a joint conference, because it

represents the specializations of our faculty. This conference consists of the following events:



• •

ICDEEE ("International Conference for the Development of Environmental Engineering Education" organized by the International Council of Environmental Engineering Education) GCTW (Graphic Communications Technology Workshop organized by the Institute of Media Technology and Light Industry Engineering) ISITD (International Symposium on Innovative Technologies and Design organized by the Institute of Product Design and the Quality Control Group)

The objective of this conference is to introduce the scientific works of our colleagues and participants. I hope it will be successful and useful. I would like to thank the work of the organizers. I wish everybody a fruitful work and a pleasant time during the conference. Prof. Dr. habil Istv�n Patk� Dean Committees PATRON: Prof. Dr. Imre Rudas, Rector, �buda University GENERAL CHAIR: Dr. Istv�n Patk�, Dean, RKK SECRETARY: Dr. Hosam Bayoumi Hamuda ORGANIZING COMMITTEE: Dr. �kos Borb�ly, Dr. Csaba Horv�th, Dr. M�rta Kisfaludy, Dr. Zolt�n Koczor COORDINATOR: Ildik� P�sztor Website http://rkk.uni-obuda.hu/ijcelit_2010

© RKK �buda University 2010

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies November 18-19, 2010



Home



Plenary Session



ICDEE Session



GCTW Session



ISITD Session

Impressum A publication of Rejtõ Sándor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering, Óbuda University.

ISBN 978-615-5018-08-4 The conference is organized as a part of Hungarian Scientific Season.

Venue Óbuda University Doberdó út 6, H-1034 Budapest, Hungary Contact Ildikó Pásztor E-mail ISITD Session THE eLiTA PROJECT: WEB-BASED EDUCATION PLATFORM FOR TEXTILE STUDIES Zoran STJEPANOVIC, Simon HARLOCK, Mirela BLAGA, Simona JEVŠNIK, Andreja RUDOLF

COMPARISON OF BODY MEASUREMENTS BETWEEN CROATIAN AND HUNGARIAN GIRLS Darko UJEVIC, Lajos SZIROVICZA, Žaklina DOMJANIC, Renata HRŽENJAK, Ksenija DOLEŽAL, Marianna HALÁSZ MODULARITY AND TRANSFORMABLE OBJECTS Géza Csire IMPLEMENTATION OF THE SUSTAINABLE APPROACH IN FASHION DESIGN Lívia KOKAS PALICSKA SPECIAL APPLICATION OF 3D HUMAN MODELING BASED CAD/CAM SYSTEMS FOR CLOTHING INDUSTRY János SOMLÓ, Marianna HALASZ, Péter TAMÁS ANALISYS OF SHEAR BEHAVIOURS OF WOVEN FABRICS WITH IMAGE PROCESSING Bidour AL-GAADI, Marianna HALASZ ANALYSIS OF FABRICS AND SEAMS IN AIRBAGS Darko UJEVIC, Stana KOVACEVIC, Slavenka PETRAK, Lajos SZIROVICZA, Marianna HALÁSZ, Žaklina DOMJANIC THE CONNECTION OF ECO-DESIGN AND THE CARBON SEQUESTRATION OF WOOD-BASED PRODUCTS Ágnes LAKATOS Black Magic; The Present and the Future Application of Oxidized and Carbon Fibers Zsigmond Balázs, Szabó Rudolf TECHNOLOGY PLATFORM FOR THE RENEWING OF HUNGARIAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY (TEXPLAT) Katalin Mathe A NEW FIBRE: POLYLACTIC ACID (PLA) Judit BORSA CORSET AND CLOTHING PHISIOLOGY Orsolya Nagy Szabó ORGANIC PACKAGING DESIGN Anita Magdolna Szabó DEVELOPMENT OF A NEW EXAMINATION METHOD OF THE COEFFICIENT OF FRICTION OF TEXTILES Gabriella OROSZLÁNY GAME4MANAGER – E-LEARNING GAME Andrea Németh

ENHANCEMENT OF THE MACHINING OF SOLID WOOD PARTS FOR UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE Tibor PAPP, Zsolt KOVÁCS SAP QUALITY MODUL AT COATS GLOBAL Gergely ZSIGRI DEFINITION OF STANDARDIZED LIFETIME AND USAGE IN PRACTICE Tibor GREGÁSZ, Márta PATAKI SUPPORTING THE EFFICIENCY AND EFFECTIVENESS OF HIGHER EDUCATION MARKETING WITH QUALITY MANAGEMENT TOOLS Zoltán KOCZOR, Vera GÖNDÖR KNITTED FABRICS IN TECHNICAL AND MEDICAL TEXTILES Károly LÁZÁR QUALITY MANAGEMENT METHODS IN ERGONOMIC DESIGN Péter György HORVÁTH, Zsolt KOVÁCS THE MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF THE FABRICS TREATED BY ß-CYCLODEXTRIN Silva KREŠEVIC VRAZ, Jelka GERŠAK, Bojana VONCINA DEVELOPMENT OF A COMPETITIVE 3D SKI-JUMPER SUIT PROTOTYPE Andreja RUDOLF, Simona JEVŠNIK, Andrej CUPAR, Vojko POGACAR, Zoran STJEPANOVIC TEACHING TEXTILE PRODUCTS 3D PROTOTYPING IN MODERN TEXTILE EDUCATION Andreja RUDOLF, Zoran STJEPANOVIC, Simona JEVŠNIK EXPERMENTAL MODULES IN DESIGN Márta Kisfaludy DESIGN OF UNUSUAL COLLARS Zlatina KAZLACHEVA, Magdalena PAVLOVA TAILORING TODAY AND IN THE PAST HOTTÓ ÉVA PATTERNS FOR CORSET WEARING CHILDREN Orsolya Nagy Szabó, András Koleszár IMPROVEMENTS USING THE RESULTS OF GRADUATE CAREER TRACK SYSTEM Vera GÖNDÖR, Zoltán KERTÉSZ, Zoltán KOCZOR

TOOL FOR PRODUCT DESIGN: NEW METHOD OF DATA DISSEMINATION BETWEEN MATERIAL RESEARCHERS AND PRODUCT DESIGNERS Zoltán KOCZOR, Katalin NÉMETH ERDODI, Vera GÖNDÖR, Zoltán KERTÉSZ SHIELDING PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES AGAINST ELECTROMAGNETIC RADIATION Katalin Németh Erdõdi, Tibor Gregász TRANSPORTATION DESIGN FOR ALL Zita Farkas INTEGRATING INTERNET APPLICATION IN TO THE WORKFLOW FOR COSTUMISATION OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS Dragoljub NOVAKOVIC, Nemanja KAŠIKOVIC, Gojko VLADIC

© RKK Óbuda University 2010

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

DESIGN OF UNUSUAL COLLARS Zlatina KAZLACHEVA1, Magdalena PAVLOVA2 1

Trakia University, Technical College of Yambol, Bulgaria Technical University of Sofia, College of Sliven, Bulgaria

2

Abstract: An investigation of the design of unusual collars, which are formed around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines in lady’s clothing, is presented in the paper. The study aim is creating of a new mode for correct and facilitating design of these kinds of collars. Similar investigations were made for collars with lapels, shawl or other design, formed around traditional V necklines, shaped with straight or curved lines. The approach for previous investigations is used in the present investigation. It includes a new depending, deduced with the use of multiple regressions and new geometrical drawing. The results of the presented study and the new geometrical mode give possibilities for facilitating and correct design constructing collars with aesthetic form and shape position toward bodice, and creation of models variety around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines. The new design constructional mode is suitable for both traditional manual and drawing with CAD systems. Keywords: Design, clothing constructing, collars, different types of necklines. 1 INTRODUCTION The collars often are the center of the compositon in the garments and designers often create new models only by changes of the collar forms. The lapel, shawl collars, or other shape of collars usually are designed around V necklines. Sometimes in lady's clothing these kinds of collars are formed around oval (like first model in figure 1), square, trapezium (like second model in figure 1), or pentagon necklines. The paper presents an investigation of design constructing of collars around these necklines, designed overall unusual collar form. The study aim is creating of a new geometrical mode for correct and facilitating design of these kinds of collars. 2 EXPERIMENTAL METHODOLOGY The constructional mode by the system M. Müller + Sohn, which is used for design of collars around V necklines [1], can be used for design constructing collar around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines. The construction is presented in figure 2. The neckline can be extra sunk. The segments 1÷2 = 2÷3 = 1,5-2,0 cm define the collar stand height by the shoulders. They are parallel to the back middle line. The segments 4÷5 = 5÷6 = 1÷2 + 1,0 define the collar stand height by the back middle. Points 2 and 5 are connected with a curved line. Points 3 and 6 are connected with a curved line, too. The segment 7÷8 defines the tangent line to the neckline in the point of intersection between the neckline and shoulder. Point 7 is situated on a horizontal line which is located 8-10 cm over the bust dart point. 8 is the point of interception of the front neckline and shoulder. For design of collars around oval, trapezium, or pentagon neckline point 7 have to be located to the left than point 8. The segment 7÷8 is in vertical position if the neckline is designed in square form. The front neckline is formed with a curved line, formed oval form, like the model on figure 2, or combination from curved or straight lines, created square, trapezium or pentagon form. An arc is drawn with centre point 7 and radius 7÷8. On the arc: 8÷9 = 9÷10 = 1÷2 = 2÷3. 8÷9 and 9÷10 defines the collar stand height by the shoulders, too. The distance 8÷11 defines the collar width by the shoulders. 425

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

Figure 1: Collars around oval and trapezium necklines 426

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

The back is held position over the front as the distance between points 3 and 10 is 0,75 cm, and the front and back shoulders are crossed each other in the point 11. The distance 5÷12 defines the collar width in the back middle. The point 13 defines the collar beginning on the the neckline. The curve 10÷14 is the same the curve 8÷13, as the segment 7÷10 is the tangent line to 10÷13 in the point 10. The line of collar connection is curve 14÷10÷3÷6. The collar edge is drawn with a curved line between points 12 and 14 through point 11.

Figure 2: Collar design constructing by the use of the system M. Müller + Sohn It is seen in the construction in figure 2 that the location on the back over the front defines the collar slope, and if the other way for determinarion of the slope of the collar will be found, the design constructional mode will be facilitated. In investigations, presented in [2], like in traditional costructional mode for lapel and shawl collar with straight rollline, an arc replace the position on the back over the front in the determination of the collar slope. The same approach is used for facilitation 427

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

of the construction in figure 2. In figure 3 points 7 and 9 are connected with a straight line, and the line is extended over point 9. An arc is drawn with center point 10 and radius 10÷6 between point 6 and extended line 7÷9. On the arc: 6÷a = 5÷6. Distance 6÷a defines the collar stand height in the collar middle. The arc reaches extended line 7÷9 in point b. If the distance a÷b is determinated with a formila, which is accurate for different measures of design and constructional elements, the construction will become facilitating. The distance a÷b is defined by the central angle β of the arc a÷b depending on collar width by the shoulders – distance 8÷11 and the angle between line 7÷9 and a vertical lin drawn througt point 7 – angle α. The dependence for determination of angle β is found by the use of the method of multiple linear regression.

Figure 3: Determination of the collar slope with an arc. Regression model. Dependent and independent variables

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International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

For the investigation two constructional bases of lady's jacket are drawn by two different methodologies [1, 3] for two different size. With the use of the constructional bases the constructions from the type, presented in figure 3, are designed for different combination of values: α = 4,76-23,65° (The value of angle α depends of the location of point 7 on the horisontal line, which is drawn on 9 cm over the bust dart point.); the extra neckline depth is 0-2,0 cm; the collar stand height by the back middle is 2,5-3,0 cm; the collar width by the shoulders is W = 4,0-10,0 cm. In this investigation traditonal linear regression formula (1) aquires mode (2).

Y = b0 + b1 ⋅ X 1 + b2 ⋅ X 2

(1)

Y is dependent variable, X1 and X2 – independent variables, b0 – constant, b1 and b2 – slopes.

β = b0 + b1 ⋅ W + b2 ⋅ α

(2)

β, ° is the central angle of the collar slope arc (arc a÷b in figure 3) , W, cm – the collar width by the shoulders, α, ° – the roll line angle (the angle between segment 7÷9 and vertical line). 3 RESULTS The statistical analysis is made with the use of the software STATISTICA 7 [4]. The linear regression results are b0 = 14,45538, b1 = 1,19105, b3 = -0,65842. The accuracy of the regression model is provided by the values of p < 0,0000, R-square = 0,82119082, Std. Error of estimate = 2,4755. On the base of the statistical analysis formula (2) assumes form (3).

β = 14,5 + 1,2 ⋅ W − 0,65 ⋅ α

(3)

The linear interaction between dependent and independent variables is presented in figure 4.

° , β ° , α W, cm

26 22 18 14 10 6 2

Figure 4: Linear interaction between dependent and independent variables

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International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

4 DESING CONSTRUCTING MODE After defining the collar slope with the use of formula (3), the new geometrical mode of design constructing collars around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines is developed. The new mode construction is presented in figure 5.

Figure 5: New design constructional mode In figure 5 point 1 is situated on the horizontal line which is located on 8-10 cm over the bust dart point. 2 is the point of interception of the front neckline and shoulder after the neckline sinking if it is necessary for the model. For design of collars around oval, trapezium, or pentagon neckline point 1 is located to the left than point 2. The segment 1÷2 is in vertical position if the neckline is designed in square form. Segment 1÷2 defines the tangent line to the neckline in the point of intersection between the neckline and shoulder. The front neckline is formed with a curved line, formed oval form, or combination from curved or straight lines, created square, trapezium (like the model in figure 5), or pentagon form. An arc is drawn with centre point 1 and radius 1÷2. On the arc: 2÷3 = 3÷4 = 1,5-2,0 cm. Distances 2÷3 and 3÷4 define the collar stand height by shoulders. Points 1 and 3 are connected with a straight line, which is extended over point 3. An arc is drawn to the right of line 1÷3 with centre point 4 and radius, equal to the back neckline length after the neckline sinking if the neckline is sunk. On the arc: Distance 5÷6 is defined by its centre angle by formula (3). Distance 6÷7 = 2÷3 + 1,0 determines the collar stand height by the back middle. Points 4 and 7 are connected with a curved line and curve 4÷7 defines the collar connected line to the back neckline. A line, which is perpendicular to 4÷7 is drawn. On the new line: 7÷8 = 6÷7. Distance 7÷8 defines the collar stand height by the back middle. Distance 8÷9 determines the collar width by the back middle. On the front shoulder distance 2÷10 define the collar width by the shoulders. The collar edge is drawn with a curved line between 430

International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies 18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

points 1 and 9 through point 10. The collar edge line shape depends from the model and fashion trends. Points 1 and 4 are connected with a curved (like the line in the construction in figure 5) or straight line, which is the same as the line of the neckline – 1÷2. The line 1÷4 defines the collar connecting line to the front neckline. 5 CONCLUSIONS The results of the presented study and the new geometrical mode give possibilities for facilitating and correct design constructing collars with aesthetic form and shape position toward bodice, and creation of models variety around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines. The new design constructional mode is suitable for both traditional manual and drawing with CAD systems.

References [1] System M. Müller + Sohn: SCHNITTECHNICK, RUNDSHAU FÜR INTERNATIONALE DAMENMODE UND SCHNITT-TECHNIK, (1990-2007) , ISSN 0948-7980 [2] Kazlacheva, Zl.: FACILITATING METHODOLOGIES FOR DESIGN OF COLLARS WITH LAPELS AND SHAWL COLLARS WITH DIMENSIONS, EQUAL OR LARGER SHOULDERS, TEXTIL I OBLEKLO, (2008) NO. 5, PP. 2-6, ISSN 1310-912X [3] Kazlacheva, Zl.: DESIGN CONSTRUCTING AND MODELING LADIES’JACKETS, TRAKIA UNIVERSITY, TECHNICAL COLLEGE OF YAMBOL, ISBN 954-90573-3-X, YAMBOL, BULGARIA, (1998) [4] Hill, T. & Lewicki, P.: ELECTRONIC STATISTICS TEXTBOOK, AVAILABLE FROM HTTP://STATSOFT.COM/TEXTBOOK/STATHOME.HTML ACCESSED: 2007

Corresponding author: Zlatina KAZLACHEVA Technical College of Yambol, Trakia University Graf Ignatiev 38 8600, Yambol, Bulgaria phone: +359 89 898284462 fax: +359 46 669183 e-mail: [email protected]

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