Jan 30, 2003 ... This document describes modifications to a 1991 Isuzu MU but could be adapted
to many IFS ... on Isuzu's. ... Twice each way turning 90.
Isuzu Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects James Whyte January 30 th 2002
This document describes modifications to a 1991 Isuzu MU but could be adapted to many IFS particularly that found on Isuzu’s.
Disclaimer: Please do not attempt this modification unless you fully understand the implications of modifying the sway bar setup. That is the effects to vehicle handling, implications to any insurance cover, Warrant of Fitness and your liability in any accident.
Introduction: One of the Isuzu MU's assets is it's excellent handling for a 4WD on road. Unfortunately this equates to not so good off road with the MU's ability to get axled well known. This can be at least partially fixed or altered with a change to the sway bar setup.
Description: Modifying the sway bar on Independent Front Suspension vehicles does not actually alter the articulation of the IFS. Rather it increases the freedom of movement for the IFS. The sway bar normally acts to share the weight on each of the front wheels by a spring steel bar with torsion load between the two wheels. Articulation or load in one wheel will via the torsion bar will at least in part be shared by both wheels. This reduces roll on the road but in 4WD'ing situations practically where one wheel is starting to lift it can reduce traction. With one wheel starting to lift the sway bar will unload this wheel and slipping of the load reduced wheel will occur. Removing the sway bar allows more independent movement but come with the liability of being dangerous on road. A quick sway bar disconnect and reconnect system is suitable to achieve the best of both situations. Extending the sway bar end bolts and fitting pins for easy removal is one way to easily make a transisition.
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Materials: 2 x M10 Bolts 150mm long. 4 x M10 Nylock nuts to match. 1 x M10 Die to match bolts the thread and pitch. 1 x 10.5 mm Drill. 1 x 13 mm or 14 mm dDrill. 2 X 'R' clips.
Assembly: If possible a few days before spray some CRC, WD40 or whatever over the sway bar end bolts to free em up a little after all those years without moving. If it's like my MU you may also want to give it a water blast and get rid of any mud and grass under there because you can be sure later on it will make it into your eyes while you are upside down and looking up. When ready loosen the sway bar end bolts and remove them completely noting the order of all the washers. I removed one completely and compared it with the one still fitted and reassembled it off the vehicle to get the stack of washers etc right. I then removed the second end bolt washers and all. Don't worry about reassembling the second as it is about to be drilled out to larger hole sizes. Drill out the rubber washers to a finish size that easily slides up and down the M10 bolts. If tight it will be hard to refit the locking pins after 4WD'ing. You will need to use a larger drill to get a 10mm hole as the rubber squishes while drilling. A 13 or 14mm drill may be required with each rubber washer drilled four times. Twice each way turning 90 degrees between each time then twice again from the other side. Test the fit and possibly drill again. Drill the steel washers with a 10.5 mm drill. Fit all back onto a bolt using the other to get the order right. Drill the other set. Measure the stack height of all the washers and bushes plus two nuts. This plus a little more is the minimum required thread length. Make both bolts and thread using the M10 die to extend the thread. Use cutting oil while threading. Fit the washers and bushes back onto the vehicle as it was originally but with a nut in the middle where the original sway bar end bolt split up the bushes and washers. Tighten everything up as for final fitting. Push the topmost part of the stack up hard and mark the position to drill for the 'R' clip. Remove from the vehicle and mark the other bolt to suit. Fit both to the vehicle and check. By adjusting the nuts to shift the position of the bolt but keeping the stack tight the position of the 'R' clip can be fine tuned. Put a taper on the point of the 'R' clip with a file to make it easier to fit.
