36. YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT. Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help
you put together your perfect trip. UNDERSTAND. VIETNAM. Vietnam Today.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”
Get the right guides for your trip
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
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2
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Vietnam...... 20 Top Experiences ....... Need to Know ................. What’s New ..................... If You Like... ..................... Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Vietnam Outdoors ......... Regions at a Glance .......
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
2 6 18 20 21 23 26 30 36
Vietnam
Vietnam is a nation going places. Fast. Its people are energetic, direct, sharp in commerce and resilient by nature. This is an outrageously fun country to explore, the locals love a laugh (and a drink) and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. The American War is over, and yet its impact endures – you’ll Ànd reminders of that cataclysmic conÁict everywhere you travel. That said, the country was never broken and emerged with its pride intact. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at Currency Language an astonishing pace. For travellers, there » Dong Vietnameseminor are (d) issues to consider» (including
Need to Know
ice of the Vietnam e peaks e-flat river e-riddled ntral ainforest er with some oductive riceat’s just the hern half ces a much cuisine, of the you head more of a nut trees o plants and y sauce on n provinces and sticky, , aromatic
Hanoi Food 333 History 33 Culture 33
Food Discover – meal by tasty meal – that Hanoi is one of the planet’s great food cities. Dine in restored colonial villas or contemporary cafes, or pull up a stool and chow down on street food classics like pho bo (beef noodle soup) or bun cha (barbecued pork and rice vermicelli).
by Month Major religious festivals in Vietnam have lunar dates; check against any Vietnamese calendar for the Gregorian dates. If you know when Tet kicks oՖ, simply count from there. Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas when the moon is full or a thin sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian food on these days, which according to the Chinese lunar calendar, fall on the 14th and 15th days of the month and from the last day of the month to the Àrst day of the next month.
US$40 #
» Cheap hotel: US$10– 15 a night, dorms less
Hanoi GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov
» Eat in local, not Western-style places »
Danang Fireworks Fest April Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Dea
February North of Danang, chilly ‘Chinese winds’ usually mean grey, overcast conditions. Conversely, sunny hot days are the norm in the southern provinces.
(Tet Nguyen z Tet Dan) The Big One! Falling in late
Midrange
Danang GO Mar-Sep
US$40– 100 » Comfortable double room: US$20–50
Buon Ma z Coffee Fe
CaՖeine cravers sho make for the Centr lands during March High Season Buon Ma Thuot pla (Jul–Aug) to an annual coՖ»ee Prices increase by up to 50% by the Growers, grinders, coast; book hotels and addicts rub sho well in advance. in the city’s main» All p Vietnam, except and local entertain the far north, is hot and humid with the provided.
Get a taste for bia hoi
» Can survive on as little as US$15 a day #
#
» Eat and drink almost anywhere
Ho Chi Minh City GO Nov-Feb
» Indulge in the odd spa treatment
Shoulder (Dec–Mar) During the Tet festival, the whole country is on the move and prices rise.
»
» North of Nha Trang
can get cool weather. Expect cold conditions
Low Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov) Perhaps the best time to tour the whole nation.
»
Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline
»
» Travel by taxi when necessary
SHOESTRING • Big trips, small budgets • Multicountry
Top End over
US$100 » Luxury hotel room: from US$70
» Shop in smart boutiques
Saigon Cy 2 Race
On your marks…get dling. Ho Chi Minh fastest rickshaw dri battle it out in their wheeled chariots to
History Explore the centuries-old commercial labyrinth of the Old Quarter, before moving on to understand the tumultuous events of the 20th century, recounted in fascinating detail at Hanoi’s excellent museums.
UNDERSTAND 425 VIETNAM 426 429 447 457
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see
belief systems
if Vietna 100 peop
(% of population)
have been searching for their own MIAs in
Other Foreign Involvemen
Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the P sent military personnel to South Vietnam a
37.4
31.9
Buddhist
Protestant
20.7
1976
467 477 485 492
Catholic
The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is proclaimed as Saigon is re-named Ho Chi Minh City. Hundreds of housands Áee abroad, including many boat people.
9.4 Cao Dai
0.4 Other
86 would be Kinh (V 3 would be Thai and 2 would be Tay 2 would be Khmer K 1 would be Hoa (ethn 6 would be others
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» Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post oce, H
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vietnam-11-cover.indd 2
PHRASEBOOK
Looking for other travel resources?
Culture There’s a lot more to Hanoi’s l l h b l
PAGE
Vietnam Today................ History ............................. People & Culture ............ Hill Tribes of Vietnam ..... Architecture in Vietnam ........................... Regional Specialities...... Food & Drink ................... Environment ...................
Budget less than
Sapa # GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov
Wandering Souls Day, A
town involved. Increasingly it’s become an international event, with music and fashion shows and a wine festival.
A Cultural Smorgasbord This is a country of myriad inÁuences and reference points. In the south, Indian and Hindu culture had a lasting inÁuence in the Cham temples and spicy regional cuisine, spiked with chilli and tempered with coconut. Head north and Chinese connections are far more apparent. Between these two competing cultures, you’ll Ànd a quintessential Vietnam in the central provinces: the graceful historic old port of Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s
Set Your Budget
Warm to hot summers, mild winters Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons
Hue Festival, June (bien
COUNTRY COUNTRY COUN • The original Comprehensive nsive • Comprehen Adventurous us • Adventurou
scams), but little real danger – on the whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding and incredibly varied country to explore.
The Vietnamese Experience 8
When to Go
ce
Blessed with a ravishing coastline, emerald-green mountains, breathtaking national parks, dynamic cities, outstanding cultural interest and one of the world’s best cuisines, Vietnam has it all.
Welcome to
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3/11/2011 11:04:48 AM
PAGE
40
ON THE ROAD
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
Northwest Vietnam p116
Northeast Vietnam p87 Hanoi p42
North-Central Vietnam p141
Central Vietnam p156 Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor p410
Central Highlands p270 South-Central Coast p214
Mekong Delta p352
Ho Chi Minh City p297
Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor
SURVIVAL 499 GUIDE PAGE
Directory A–Z ................. Transport ........................ Health .............................. Language ........................ Index ................................ Map Legend ....................
500 511 523 528 542 551
p410
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
Transport GETTING THERE & AWAY
Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River.
Entering Vietnam Formalities at Vietnam’s nternational airports are erally smoother than at orders, as the volume s greater. That said, land from Camnow rela-
(%3832 0320); HCMC (%3832 0320) The state-owned Áag carrier has Áights to 28 international destinations, mainly in east Asia, but new routes were announced to the UK and Australia in 2011. The airline has a modern Áeet of Airbuses and Boeings, and has a good recent safety record.
Airports
p fal and
Land Vietnam with Cam Laos and border cr eigners w a big imp ade ago. it is still Vietnam any of t
Bord Exa ar
There are three established international airports in Vietnam. A fourth major international airport, in P Quoc, should becom operational in 2
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevich, Nick Ray
MYANMAR (BURMA)
Tay Trang
Dien Bien Phu
VIENTIANE
Mai Chau
Tuyen
Ba Be National Park Hoang Lien National Park Lang Son
Ba Be Lakes
Haiphong
Pingxiang
Cao Bang
Nanning
C H I N A
Nong Haet
kon g r
Tha Khaek
ve
Ri
Cau Treo
Tam Coc
Cha Lo
Ha Tinh
Vinh
Dansavanh
Khe Sanh
Hue
Dong Ha
Hainan Island (China)
Halong Bay Thousands of amazing limestone islands (p94)
Zhanjiang
18ºN
20ºN
Paracel Islands
Top Experiences ›
Hue Majestic former imperial capital (p163)
Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP Caves, rivers and outstanding mountainous scenery (p151)
Gulf of Tonkin
Dong Hoi
Lao Bao
Thanh Hoa
Ninh Binh
Cat Ba Halong Bay Thai Binh Island
Hai Duong
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
Na Phao
Nam Phao
Na Meo
Nam Can
Nam Xoi
Cuc Phuong National Park
Quang o ua n Yen Bai Thai n g L Tuan Nguyen Mong Cai ta i Dongxing Giao e i n n Viet Tri Bac Ninh Son La s Halong Ba Vi HANOI Bai Tu City National Long Bay Park Hoa Binh
Phonsavan
LAOS
Sapa
Ha Giang
Lao Cai Bac Ha
Fansipan (3143m) H o M
Lai Chau (Tam Duong)
Muong Lay (Lai Chau)
Hanoi Captivating capital steeped in history (p42)
Sapa Atmospheric old French hill station (p125)
› Vietnam
Me
0 0
0
200m
500m
102ºE
Mekong Delta Tradition-rich watery world (p352)
200 km 120 miles
104ºE
Rach Gia
Tinh Bien
Ca Mau
Ha Tien
Phu Quoc Island
Duong Dong
Kampot
Takeo Cao Lanh
Bac Lieu
Soc Trang
My Tho Ben Tre Vung Tau Tra Vinh
Long Hai
Bien Hoa
Con Dao Con Dao National Islands Park 106ºE
Mekong Delta
Vinh Can Tho Long
Long Xuyen
Chau Doc
Cu Chi
HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)
Tay Ninh
108ºE
110ºE
Phan Rang & Thap Cham
Nha Trang
Tuy Hoa
14ºN
10ºN
Mui Ne Cosmopolitan beach and watersport resort (p247)
12ºN
Nha Trang Hedonistic beach party capital (p227)
SOUTH CHINA SEA
Hoi An A delightful ancient port (p190)
Quy Nhon
Quang Ngai
Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam at its liveliest, buzzing best (p297)
Mui Ne
Dalat
Kon Tum
Phan Thiet
Cat Tien National Park
Buon Ma Thuot
Yok Don National Park
Pleiku
Bo Y
ds
1000m
Kaam Samnor Vinh Xuong
PHNOM PENH
Cat Tien National Park Wildlife-spotting, hiking and biking (p283)
Mekong River
1500m
Tonlé Sap
Attapeu
Cham Islands
Hoi An Tam Ky My Son
Danang
H i g h l an
ELEVATION
Battambang
Angkor Wat Siem Reap
CAMBODIA
Pakse
Bach Ma National Park
tral
Gulf of Thailand
BANGKOK
Angkor Wat One of the wonders of the world (p418)
THAILAND
Savannakhet
Cen
26
Itineraries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com /thorntree to chat with other travellers.
CHINA VIETNAM
BURMA
LAOS
_ HANOI #
÷# # •
É
Cuc Phuong National Park
# Ninh Binh •
Tam Coc
É É
Hue # •
# Hoi An •
THAILAND
SOUTH CHINA SEA
É
É
CAMBODIA
• Nha Trang #
É • Mui Ne Beach #
É
• #
Ho Chi Minh City
Two Weeks
The Great Ocean Road Acclimatise in the capital, Hanoi; see the sights, wine and dine, take in a temple or two and experience the Old Quarter’s street life. Then head to nearby Ninh Binh for a couple of days. It’s the gateway to the striking scenery of Tam Coc and the primates and trails of Cuc Phuong National Park. Next it’s a long train or bus journey south to experience Hue, imperial and irresistible capital of old. Then head up and over (or under) the mighty Hai Van Pass before hitting charming Hoi An, the perfect place for some time out – sightseeing, shopping and sunning yourself on the beach. Enter Nha Trang, the biggest and brashest beach resort in Vietnam, and try a hedonistic boat trip to nearby islands. If that’s all too much, carry on south to Mui Ne Beach, a tropical idyll with smart resorts, blissed-out budget options, towering dunes and crazy kitesurfing. Finish up in Ho Chi Minh City, where you can indulge in sophisticated shopping, delectable dining and the liveliest nightlife in the country.
27 Bac Ha • VIETNAM •# Sapa #
CHINA
É
BURMA
É
‚ Halong Bay
• Cat Ba Island # Cuc Phuong # • ÷# Ninh Binh National Park
É É
Phong Nha-Ke Bang ÷ # • Vinh Moc Tunnels National Park # Hue # Khe Sanh Combat Base • # • • Danang # # • • Hoi An My Son # THAILAND • My Khe Beach # É
É
É
É
SOUTH CHINA SEA
Dalat
# •
Tay Ninh
# • • Cu Chi Tunnels #
É
• Can Tho #
É
Doc Let Beach &
‚ Whale Island • # Nha Trang
• Ho Chi Minh #
City (Saigon)
One Month
The Works Run this one in reverse, and start out in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a day trip to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels and then carry on to Tay Ninh, headquarters of the Cao Dai religion, and its fairy-tale temple. Dip into the Mekong Delta for a day or two. Stay at Can Tho, the social and commercial heart of the region, and take to the water to cruise through the floating markets. Head up into the central highlands to the romantic hill station of Dalat to tour its quirky sights. Back down on the coast, the beach resort of Nha Trang has some serious partying, boat trips, scuba diving and snorkelling. Ease you way up the stunning central coastline stopping at beaches like Doc Let or My Khe when you fancy, visiting Whale Island and taking in Cham ruins including My Son. Cultured charmer and culinary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop, before a quick look at booming Danang and on to the old imperial capital of Hue and its citadel, tombs and pagodas. Take a day trip to the former Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) where you’ll find famous sites from the American War, including Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Then head into the hills to the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a World Heritage site where the world’s largest cave has been discovered. From here, follow the stunning Ho Chi Minh Highway to the capital, stopping to see Cuc Phuong National Park and the surreal landscapes around Ninh Binh. To the east lies Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the scenic bay. Stop for a couple of days on rugged Cat Ba Island, an important adventuresports centre, before looping back to the capital. Arrive in time to catch the night train to Sapa, unofficial capital of the northwest hill-tribe region and a beautiful base for hiking and biking. Be sure to take a side trip to Bac Ha to catch its famous markets and tribal villages before the return journey to Vietnam’s intoxicating capital, Hanoi, and its evocative Old Quarter.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
É
LAOS
HANOI
_É #
28 JERRY ALEXANDER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S PETER UNGER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
» (above) Street vendors selling vegetables, Hanoi » (left) Tourist junks glide past a floating village near Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay
29 Tram Ton Lao Cai Pass # • • Sapa # É VIETNAM • Muong Lay # HANOI
_ #
É
• Halong Bay #
É
É
É
Hue
• #
THAILAND
# Danang • • Hoi An #
SOUTH CHINA SEA
É
CAMBODIA É
Northwest Loop by Motorbike Vietnam in a Week
# Ho Chi Minh City •
Seven Days
10 Days
Vietnam in a Week
Northwest Loop by Bike
Vietnam is a large, densely-populated developing country where journeys are slow. To get an overview of the nation in a week you’re going to have to take a couple of internal flights (or overnight train journeys). Begin in Hanoi, basing yourself in the Old Quarter, for a fullon introduction. Hit the ground running, spend a day touring the capital’s sights and a night munching street food and sampling bia hoi. Then take a day-trip to Halong Bay for magnificent scenery and revitalising sea air. Day three takes in a morning flight to Hue and an afternoon exploring the imperial citadel (with a good guide to make the most of your time). On day four bus, train or automobile down to Hoi An, making sure you have dinner at one of the town’s sublime Vietnamese restaurants. The following morning, soak up Hoi An’s unique atmosphere and explore its pagodas and temples on foot. If the sun’s out, hit nearby An Bang Beach for a swim later on. On day six it’s up to Danang airport and a flight to Ho Chi Minh City, for a brief taste of Vietnam’s most dynamic city: its fabled restaurants, nightlife and sights.
Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself, a land of brooding mountains, a mosaic of ethnic minorities, a region of overwhelming beauty. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels with light traffic, breathtaking views and pretty decent paved roads. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to the life of the minorities. Northwest of here, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical stop is Son La. Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history; it was here that the French colonial story ended with defeat. Plan on two nights here. Tour the military sights then revel in the stunning alpine scenery to the north, breaking the journey with a night in Muong Lay. On day seven, climb over the mighty Tram Ton Pass to Sapa. This is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), an amazing array of minority peoples and some of the region’s most colourful markets. On your last day, head down to Lao Cai, then let the train take the strain – load your bike on a goods carriage while you slumber on a sleeper berth back to Hanoi.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Son La • # Mai Chau
É
LAOS
• #
É
• Dien Bien Phu #
É
BURMA
É
c
CHINA
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first
Look out for these icons: author’s top A green or No payment oOur recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired
HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 AROUND HANOI . . . . . . . . . . 83 Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Perfume Pagoda . . . . . . . . . 84 Handicraft Villages . . . . . . . 84 Thay & Tay Phuong Pagodas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Ba Vi National Park . . . . . . .85 Co Loa Citadel . . . . . . . . . . .85 Tam Dao Hill Station . . . . . 86
NORTHEAST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Ba Be National Park . . . . . 89 Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . 91 Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 HALONG BAY . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . .108 MONG CAI & THE CHINESE BORDER . . . . . . 110 Mong Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Lang Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Cao Bang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Hang Pac Bo (Water-Wheel Cave) . . . . . . 114 Ban Gioc Waterfall & Nguom Ngao Cave . . . . . . . 115
NORTHWEST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 116 Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Tuan Giao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Pa Khoang Lake . . . . . . . . . 121 Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Muong Lay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Lai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Ha Giang Province . . . . . . . 137
NORTH-CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 141 Ninh Binh Province . . . . . .143 Vinh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Around Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . .153
CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 156 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Quang Tri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Bach Ma National Park . . . 178 Suoi Voi (Elephant Springs). . . . . . . 179 Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . . 179 Hai Van Pass & Tunnel . . . .180 Ba Na Hill Station. . . . . . . .180 Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 187 Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 207 My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . .213 Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Around Quang Ngai . . . . . . 217 Sa Huynh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 223 Quang Trung Museum . . . 224 Ham Ho Nature Reserve. . 224 Song Cau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 225 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 243 Phan Rang & Thap Cham 244 Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 246 Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Phan Thiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . 256 Binh Chau Hot Springs . . 256 Phan Thiet to Long Hai . . .257 Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 263
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .270 Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . .272 Bao Loc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . 283 Cat Tien National Park . . 283 Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 285 Around Buon Ma Thuot . . 288 Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291 Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 AROUND HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . 342 Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . . 349 Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
MEKONG DELTA . . . .352 My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Around My Tho . . . . . . . . . .357 Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Around Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . 363 Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Around Can Tho . . . . . . . . . 371 Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373 Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374 Around Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . .375 Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376 Around Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . .378 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . .381 Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Around Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . 395 Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Around Chau Doc . . . . . . . 400
Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Around Cao Lanh . . . . . . . 407 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407
SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .410 SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 AROUND SIEM REAP . . . . 417 Cambodia Landmine Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Kompong Pluk . . . . . . . . . . 417 TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . 418 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . .418 Around Angkor Thom . . . 423
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Iain Stewart Coordinating Author, North-Central Vietnam, Central Vietnam Iain Stewart first visited and was captivated by Vietnam as a traveller in 1991 (armed with a trusty Lonely Planet). He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. Iain has written over 30 guidebooks for destinations including Guatemala, Ibiza and Indonesia, for many publishers. This trip was quite a blast – motorbiking the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailing to the Chams, partying in Saigon, exploring the heart of Phong Nha and eating the best food in the world. Read more about Iain at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart
Brett Atkinson Hanoi, Northeast Vietnam, Northwest Vietnam Brett Atkinson first visited Vietnam in late 1993, a few months before the United States lifted their trade embargo. For this trip he dived headfirst into Hanoi’s brilliant street food scene, returned to Halong Bay, and explored northern Vietnam’s emerging destinations for intrepid travellers: Ha Giang province and Bai Tu Long. When he’s not home in Auckland, Brett’s exploring the planet as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for what he’s been eating, and where he’s headed next. Peter Dragicevich Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta Being a self-declared big-city junkie, Peter was thrilled to return to Vietnam to write about Ho Chi Minh City after a four-year hiatus. Things change quickly in Vietnam, but despite a few new skyscrapers and a fresh crop of international bars and restaurants, he was pleased to find Saigon just as crazy, chaotic and thrilling as ever. This is the 21st Lonely Planet guidebook that he’s contributed to, including a previous edition of this book. When he’s not slurping up noodle soup on motorcycle-clogged streets he’s based in his hometown of Auckland, New Zealand. Read more about Peter at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/peterdragicevich
Nick Ray Central Highlands, South-Central Coast, Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. As he lives in Phnom Penh, Vietnam is Nick’s backyard. He has co-authored Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia, as well as the Cambodia book for Lonely Planet. Nick has been to almost every province from Ha Giang in the north to Ca Mau in the south. He was exploring in-between this time around and enjoyed motorbiking the Central Highlands and hanging out on Con Dao.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 11th edition – Feb 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 715 2 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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