Scraps of fabric for the petals on the flower and stem. • 2 x 2 ½''x WOF (width ...
Print Template onto A3 or Letter size paper and resize to 140%. This pillow has 2
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Projects & Tutorials PROJECTS: Appliqué Flower Pillow Cathedral Windows Cushion Embroidered Wedding Dress Italian Tile Table Runner Ohio Star Duffel Bag Split the Difference Pillows
Memory Craft 15000
INSPIRATION: Bridesmaid dress Embroidered Tunic with Duffel Bag & Sun Hat Flower Girl Dress
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Appliqué Flower Pillow
Appliqué Flower Pillow Requirements: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
6 ½’’x 42’’ strip of fabric for the pleated section 1 15’’x 20’’ Background for appliqué section 2 10’’x 10’’ square for main part of appliqué flower Scraps of fabric for the petals on the flower and stem. 2 x 2 ½’’x WOF (width of fabric) for the flange of the cushion. 2 x 24’’x 16’’ fabric for the back of the cushion. Sewing thread to match section 1 Embroidery thread for the appliqué flower Heavy decorative threads for reverse bobbin work around the main flower and stem Variegated embroidery or quilting thread to stitch on the circles of the petals 6 buttons to embellish the petals of the flower 3 buttons for the back of the cushion Twin needle Empty bobbins Flower head Pins Vliesofix Fabric Marker Ruler 20’’x 20’’ square of Tear away ¼’’ Foot (O) Open Toe Clear foot (F2) Free Motion Foot (QC) Free Motion Foot (PD-H) Button Sewing on Foot (T) Walking Foot (AD) Buttonhole foot (R) Print Template onto A3 or Letter size paper and resize to 140%.
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This pillow has 2 sections. Section 1: Pleated panel on the left of the cushion: 1. Start with a 6’’ x WOF strip of fabric. | Fig. A 2. Mark the fabric at 1’’ increments down the length (42” side) of the fabric. (Alternatively you could use a fabric that has markings at approx. 1’’ increments such as a check or stripe as in the sample). 3. Attach the ¼’’ seam foot (O) to the machine. | Fig. B 4. Select sewing applications tab - patchwork tab - the ¼’’ seam will then be selected. 5. Match up the first two 1” markings so that right sides of the fabric is out. Sew
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Appliqué Flower Pillow, Cont. across the 6” piece with a ¼” seam allowance. Continue with this process until all seams have been sewn and the piece is now approximately 16 ½’’.
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6. Press the pleated fabric so that all the pleats are running in the same direction. | Fig. C 7. Mark the fabric down the length in 1” increments. 8. Select a decorative stitch on the sewing machine. Thread the machine with an embroidery thread on the top and bobbinfil in the bobbin. 9. Attach the Open Toe Clear foot (F2) to the machine. Align the first marking with the center of the F2 foot and sew the decorative stitch down the length of the fabric ensuing that all the pleats are going in the same direction. | Fig. D 10. Skip the next line and sew the same decorative stitch on the third line.
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11. Repeat this process across the fabric skipping a line of stitching each time. 12. Once every second line has been stitched in the same direction turn the fabric around so that you are now stitching from the other end of the fabric. | Fig. E 13. Sew the remaining lines of stitching in the opposite direction. The pleats are to be caught in the opposite direction in order to give the look of fractured pleats. 14. Continue stitching until all lines of decorative sewing have been completed. 15. Set this panel aside until section 2 has been completed.
Section 2: Appliqué flower with reverse bobbin work and thread painting
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16. Trace out all components of the flower onto vliesofix and adhere to the wrong side of the fabrics you have selected for the flower and cut out. | Fig. F 17. Fuse the pieces onto the background piece. 18. Onto the piece of tearaway trace the outline of the flower and stem. This is required as the outline of the flower cannot be seen from the reverse side of the fabric thus we cannot see where to do the reverse bobbin work stitching. This can be done by using a light box ensuring that the appliqué piece is face down so that we are tracing the mirror image of the shape.
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19. Pin the tearaway onto the back of the main appliqué piece so that the outside of the traced outline is matching up with the edge of the flower on the correct side of the fabric. (This will be the guide when reverse appliquéing the flower). | Fig. G 20. Wind a bobbin with the heavy decorative thread. Place it into the bobbin area of the machine but bypass the tension on the bobbin holder. 21. Thread the top of the machine with a matching color embroidery or sewing thread. 22. Select Triple Straight Stitch. Stitch – Utility (U) (1/2) Stitch #5, 1/37 23. Attach the clear open toe foot (F2). 24. Place appliquéd block right side down on bed of machine so that the appliquéd side is on the bed of the machine and the tearaway is facing up. 25. Leaving a tail of thread start sewing around the outer edge of the flower, if the appliqué line is not as heavy as you would like repeat the process to either the left or right of the original line. (The sample has three rows of stitching beside each other.) | Fig. H 26. Thread the machine with the variegated embroidery or
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sewing thread to stitch the circles on the petals.
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27. Attach free motion foot (QC) to the machine. 28. Select sewing applications icon – quilting tab – free quilting – Straight stitch 2. 29. Sew around the circles with free motion stitching. (The sample has been free motion stitched more heavily on the outer edge of the circle then coming into finer stitching in the centre of the circle.) | Fig. I 30. Continue this process on all 5 circles. 31. Attach the twin needle and the free motion quilting foot (PD-H). 32. Thread the machine with two colors of embroidery or quilting thread on the top of the machine and bobbinfil in the bobbin area.
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33. Select Stitch – Utility (U) (1/2) Stitch #1 (1/37) – Lower feed dogs. | Fig. J 34. Using a fabric marker draw the shape of the 5 petals to be thread painted with the twin needle. 35. Starting near the centre of the flower free motion out to the length that suits and continue this process until the desired look has been achieved. 36. Continue this process until all 5 petals have been created. 37. Attach Clear Open Toe Foot (F2). 38. Wind bobbin with heavy decorative thread to sew the stem with. | Fig. K
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39. Place bobbin in the bobbin area but don’t put the thread into the tension of the bobbin holder. 40. Select a stitch to sew around the edge of the green area for the stem, leaves and middle of the flower. 41. Stitch – Utility (U) (1/2) Stitch #6 Page 1/37. 42. At the start be sure to leave long tails of thread so that they can be pulled through to the back and tied off. | Fig. L 43. Place the buttons onto the petals that don’t have an appliquéd circle on them. 44. Attach the Button sewing on foot (T). Select the stitch by going into the sewing applications menu (T-shirt) and select button icon then select regular icon.
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45. Attach all 6 buttons onto cushion.
Putting It All Together: Cushion Construction 46. Square the background piece to 14’’x 16’’. 47. Cut the pleated piece to 6’’x 16’’. 48. Select sewing applications icon - patchwork tab - the ¼’’ seam will then be selected. 49. Attach the ¼’’ foot (O) to the machine. 50. Sew section 1 onto the left of section 2 with a ¼” seam. 51. Cut 2 strips 2 ½’’ x WOF. (This will be the flange of the cushion.) 52. Attach the two sides of the flange to the cushion with a ¼” seam. 53. Cut off the remainder of the strip. 54. Attach the top and bottom of the strip to the cushion. 55. Cut off remaining strip so that the cushion is now square.
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Appliqué Flower Pillow, Cont. 56. Take the two backing pieces 24’’x 16’’. Fold the 24’’ side down 1’’. Then fold again so that the raw edge is inside the fold. Press. 57. Topstitch this edge on both pieces. 58. On one of the pieces mark out the buttonholes for stitching in the 1’’ topstitched area. 59. On the other piece mark out the positions for the buttons to be stitched in the topstitched area. 60. Attach the buttonhole foot (R) and place one of the buttons in the back of the foot. 61. Sew the three buttonholes. 62. Attach the button sewing foot (T). 63. Sew the buttons onto the opposite piece of fabric to the buttonholes. 64. Lay the front of the cushion on a flat surface facing up. 65. Take the backing piece that was just created and do the buttons up into the buttonholes. 66. Lay the backing piece right side down on top of the front of the cushion. 67. Sew around the edge with a ½’’ seam. 68. Turn the cushion right side out and press all seams. 69. Attach the walking foot and sew in the ditch where the flange meets the centre of the cushion panel. 70. Your cushion is now ready for the cushion insert to be added.
Appliqué Flower Pillow
Cathedral Windows Cushion
Cathedral Windows Cushion Requirements • • • • • • • • • • • • •
6 x 15’’x 15’’square for cathedral windows 10’’ x WOF for the background of the windows 8 buttons to match or contrast the cathedral windows (front of cushion) Embroidery thread to contrast the background fabric Sewing thread to match the cathedral windows to topstitch. Thread to sew buttons on (Sample has used the same colour as the window backgrounds) 3 buttons for back of cushion 2 x 13’’x 14’’ cushion backing 12’’x 40’’ Tearaway to stitch behind the window centres ¼’’ sewing foot (O) Clear open toes foot (F2) Button Sewing on foot (T) Buttonhole foot (R)
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Cushion Construction 1. Lay the first 15’’ square wrong side up on a flat surface. 2. Mark ¾’’ from each outer edge. (This line will be used to press the side seams in later). | Fig. A 3. Fold the corner in first, and then fold the sides in so that the fold is on the ¾’’ marking. | Fig. B 4. Fold the square in half from top to bottom, then from side to side and press to find the centre of the square, making sure that the ¾’’ seam is still turned under. | Fig. C
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5. Fold each corner into the centre and press. Make sure that in pressing the square the corner is kept as neat as possible. | Fig. D 6. Take each new corner and fold to the centre again. | Fig. E 7. Your finished block will measure approx. 6 ½’’ x 6 ½’’. 8. Make 6 of these blocks. 9. Lay the squares out on a flat surface so that you have 2 rows with 3 square in each row. 10. Take two squares that are side by side from the row of three and lift the adjacent folded triangles and sew from top to bottom making sure that they are pinned and line up evenly. 11. Sew on the pressed line through both triangles. | Fig. F 12. Continue the steps above to attach all 6 squares together to create a 2 x 3 layout. 13. Take the window piece of fabric and the tearaway. 14. This piece of fabric can be embellished with stitches however you like. | Fig. G 15. Starting and working from side to side across the 10’’ strip, sew a selection of stitched to fill in the fabric to the desired effect.
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Cathedral Windows Cushion, Cont. 16. You may choose to move the fabric as you sew so that some of the stitches have flowing lines rather than all straight.
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17. Some stitched may also be sewn as one repeat only. 18. Suggested stitches include: | Fig. H • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Decorative tab – Satin tab – Stitch #4 Decorative tab – Satin tab – Stitch #19 Decorative tab – Satin tab – Stitch #8 Decorative tab – Heirloom tab – Stitch #21 Decorative tab – Heirloom tab – Stitch #4 Decorative tab – Heirloom tab – Stitch #34 Decorative tab – Heirloom tab – Stitch #38 Decorative tab – Heirloom tab – Stitch #16 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #15 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #45 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #24 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #41 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #51
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Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #29 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #18 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #20 Decorative tab – Quilt tab – Stitch #60 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #11 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #71 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #74 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #109 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #97 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #94 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #80 Decorative tab – Decorative tab – Stitch #101 Decorative tab – Buttonhole tab – Stitch #24
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19. Once the piece is embellished, mark out twelve 4’’x 4’’ squares and cut them out. 20. Take 5 of the squares and cut them in half on the diagonal to have ten triangles and seven squares. 21. Place a square into each of the centre windows and the triangle pieces onto each outside window. 22. The squares and triangles won’t fill the entire area as the window arch will fold over.
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23. Fold the window arch on each window over so that the arch covers the edge of the window background and pin in place. | Fig. I 24. Attach the clear open toe sewing foot (F2). 25. Select straight stitch – Utility (U) (1/2) Stitch #1, 1/37. | Fig. J 26. Sew around all four sides with matching thread to the cathedral window fabric. 27. Continue the above step until all cathedral windows have been created. 28. Attach the button sewing on foot (T). 29. Select Sewing applications button (T-shirt) – Select the button tab – Select the regular button. 30. Place a button where each of the arched windows intersects. 31. Sew the buttons into position. 32. Trim the outer edge of the cushion so that the background triangles are not over hanging the cathedral window, being careful not to cut the folded fabric on the edge. 33. Take the two backing pieces 13’’x 14’’. Fold the 14’’ side down 1’’. Then fold again so that the raw edge is inside the fold. Press.
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34. Topstitch this edge on both pieces.
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35. On one of the pieces mark out the buttonholes for stitching in the 1’’ topstitched area. 36. On the other piece mark out the positions for the buttons to be stitched in the topstitched area. 37. Attach the buttonhole foot (R) and place one of the buttons in the back of the foot. 38. Sew the three buttonholes. 39. Attach the button sewing foot (T). 40. Sew the buttons onto the opposite piece of fabric to the buttonholes. 41. Lay the front of the cushion on a flat surface facing up.
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42. Take the backing piece that was just created and do the buttons up into the buttonholes. 43. Lay the backing piece right side down on top of the front of the cushion. 44. Attach ¼’’ seam foot (O). 45. Select sewing applications, then the patchwork tab; the ¼’’ seam will then be selected. 46. Sew around the edge with a ¼’’ seam. 47. Turn the cushion right side out and press all seams. 48. Your cushion is now ready for the cushion insert to be added.
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Embroidered Wedding Dress
Embroidered Wedding Dress CREATED BY MICHELE MISHLER
Janome Supplies: • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Horizon MC15000 Digitizer MBX V4.5 A foot (9mm) P foot AccuFlex VD foot Z foot Janome Embroidery Thread Janome Metallic Embroidery Thread, silver Janome pre-wound bobbins Janome Blue Tip needle SQ23 Hoop GR Hoop Janome serger such as 1110DX
Fabric and Notions: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Vogue pattern, V2842 Heavy weight bridal satin, 54", 6 yds Satin taffeta for lining, 54", 5 yds 1 yd crisp woven interfacing for underlining 1 yd boning 10 yds 3/4" horsehair 20" invisible zipper 1 package seam tape All purpose thread to match fabric 4 cones serger thread Sticky stabilizer (such as Jenny Haskins Hoop Magic) Removable marking pen Metalfil needle Jump drive
The ultimate sewing project requires the ultimate embroidery machine--the new Janome Horizon MC15000! Designed for quality professional-styled embroidery with large hoops and precision quality, this is the perfect machine for creating a once in a lifetime dress. The pattern chosen for the embroidered wedding dress is Vogue V2842, View B. This is a classic strapless dress in an A line style. The inset godet in the skirt is the perfect pallet for extravagant white and silver embroidery. For the bodice, a panel of embroidered fabric was created using smaller elements of the embroidery design used for the skirt.
Embroidered Wedding Dress, Cont. Embroidery Preparation:
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1. Set up the Horizon MC 15000 for professional-styled embroidery. Select Home, and from the screen, select Edit. The Edit screen will appear on the screen. Change the hoop size to the GR Hoop. Select Home, and from the screen, select Built-in Designs. Change the hoop selection to the GR Hoop. Select Design #2. The design will appear on the Edit screen. 2. Insert a jump drive into the Horizon MC15000. Save File to the USB device, renaming it 'Wedding'. Remove the jump drive from the machine and take it to your computer. 3. Open the Digitizer program. Open file, and change the Files of Type to All Files. Locate the file "Wedding" that we saved to the jump drive. 4. Adjust the colors of the design so that rose centers are silver, the buds are silver and the line of blanket stitch at the base of the design is silver. All remaining elements of the design are changed to white. The colors are not re-sequenced as the layers are stitched in a certain order to maintain the design integrity. Save the design using Write to Card. | Fig. A
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5. Create a smaller motif by isolating the oval motif in the center of the design. | Figs. B, C 6. Edit/Copy. Open New. Edit/Paste. Move the design to center and Write to Card. Name the file Wedding2. | Fig. D 7. Isolate the rose motif in the center of the oval. | Fig. E 8. Edit/Copy. Open New. Edit/Paste. Move the design to center and Write to Card. Name the file Wedding3. Print a template of each of the embroidery designs.
Creating the Embroidered Fabric: 9. Trim the pattern pieces for View B in the desired size. Locate the bodice pieces and the pattern for the godet, and set them aside. Cut out the lining as directed by the pattern, using the satin taffeta. Cut the bodice underlining from the woven interfacing. Cut out the dress front and dress back from the heavy satin. 10. From the remaining satin fabric, cut a 1/2 yd length. Set aside. Pin the godet pattern to the remaining satin, and cut around the pattern piece with an extra 1" margin. Use a removable marking pen to trace an outline of the pattern. 11. Use the template for the original motif, 'Wedding', to space the design along the hem of the godet pattern, 1" from the lower edge. The number of motifs will vary according to the size. Mark the placement crosshairs with the removable marking pen. 12. Hoop sticky stabilizer and place the hoop on the Horizon MC15000. Place the godet over the hoop, centering the middle set of crosshairs. Pat the fabric into place, making sure the crosshairs are align to the vertical and horizontal axis of the hoop. Baste. Embroider the motif. Continue by embroidering the first marked crosshair, then the last marked crosshair, and finally, the marked crosshairs for the remaining designs to complete the lower border of the godet. 13. Use the template for the oval motif, 'Wedding2' to mark more rows of embroidery, centering the oval between the upper points of the original motif. Embroider these designs. As the godet narrows toward the point, fill in additional rows using the rose motif, 'Wedding3". When the embroidery is complete, remove excess stabilizer and press from the
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wrong side. Place the godet pattern over the embroidered fabric, following the marked outline as closely as possible. Pin and cut the godet.
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14. Embroider the 1/2 yd piece of fabric with the oval motif, 'Wedding2', spacing each design 1/2" to 1" apart. Each row of embroidery designs is offset from the previous row, creating an overall embroidered fabric. When the fabric is complete, remove excess stabilizer and press from the wrong side. Cut the bodice patterns from the embroidered fabric, centering and matching motifs as desired.
Constructing the Dress: 15. The dress was assembled following the instructions for the pattern with the following exceptions: 16. All cut pieces were finished with the serger using a 4 thread wide overlock stitch before sewing, excepting the bodice and bodice lining. 17. The bodice is underlined with sew in interfacing. The seams are clipped and pressed open, and then catch stitched to the underlining. The bodice lining is boned using seam tape for the casing, which is sewn directly to the lining and centered on the seams. 18. An invisible zipper was substituted for the placket and button detail. 19. The lining was hemmed with 3/4" horsehair, and machine stitched in place. 20. The dress was hemmed with 3/4" horsehair used as a facing and hand tacked in place at each seam. 21. French tacks are used between the layers of skirt, godet and lining. 22. As with all custom fit garments, it is a good idea to check the fit frequently as you are sewing. Press seams open using a sleeve roll to minimize the chance of leaving impressions of the seam allowances in the final pressing. The finishing touch is a beautiful veil such as Vogue V8569. The edges were finished with a fine silver cord and an embroidered motif was used on the headpiece.
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Italian Tile Table Runner
Italian Tile Table Runner CREATED BY MICHELE MISHLER
Janome Supplies: • • • • • • •
Horizon MC15000 A foot (9mm) P foot Janome Embroidery Thread Janome pre-wound bobbins Janome Blue Tip needle SQ23 Hoop
Fabric and Notions: • • • • • • •
1/2 yd outdoor canvas, turquoise (60" width) 1/2 yd outdoor canvas, white (60" width) 1/2 yd outdoor decorator fabric, zigzag print (54") Low loft batting or craft fleece, 12" x 70" All purpose thread to match fabric Sticky stabilizer (such as Jenny Haskins Hoop Magic) Removable marking pen
The new Horizon MC15000 has such a beautiful collection of built-in designs and many of the designs are coordinates designed to work together, creating infinite and beautiful custom designs. For the outdoor table runner, we created two designs reminiscent of Italian tile and embroidered them on a plain background, bordered with a coordinating print. Such a great way to showcase the fantastic embroidery of the Horizon MC 15000!
Creating the Embroidery Arrangement: 1. Set up the Horizon MC15000 for professional-style embroidery. Select Home and from the screen, select Edit. Change the hoop size to SQ23 if necessary. 2. Select Home and from the screen, select Built-in Designs. Change the hoop choice to SQ14, and select Design #51. The design will appear on the Edit screen. 3. Scroll down until you find color Selection. A new screen appears, allowing you to select each color and change the color scheme of the design. Use the up and down arrows to chose the third color of the design. Select White, and move the slide bar to the right until the third color of the designs turns white. Press OK. | Figs. A, B 4. The third color change of the corner design will not be stitched in the final arrangement, and by changing the color to white, it becomes less visible on the Edit screen, making it easier to complete our arrangement. | Fig. C
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Italian Tile Table Runner, Cont. 5. The design will reappear on the Edit screen with the change of color. Use the Copy button to create four designs. Move and rotate the designs so that there is one in each corner. | Fig. D
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6. Use the Scroll buttons to help you select the designs one at a time so you can move them. When you have the designs arranged, select Home and from the screen, select Built-in Designs. Change the hoop selection to SQ23 and select Design #15. Press the Resize button. | Fig. E 7. Adjust the size to 90%. Press OK. Notice that the design now fits between the petal shaped corners, overlapping the design element that we changed to white in the previous step. 8. The last step in completing our design is to select color Sort. A new window will appear, showing the groups of designs suitable for color sorting. In this case, the four corner designs can be consolidated so that the design elements stitch out in three color changes instead of twelve color changes. | Figs. F, G, H
Embroidery: 9. At the ironing board, fold the white canvas in half lengthwise. Press lightly to create a crease line. Place the fabric on a flat surface and locate the center point of the fabric along the crease and make a mark. Measure 10" from the center and make a second mark. Make a third mark 20" from the center. Measure 10" from center in the opposite direction and make a mark. Measure 20" from center and make a fifth mark. These are the placement marks for our five embroideries.
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10. Outdoor canvas is a heavy weight fabric that is not easy to hoop using the traditional hooping method. Instead, hoop sticky stabilizer, paper side up. Score the paper with a pin and remove the paper within the hoop. Secure the hoop to the machine. Place the marked fabric over the hoop with the center mark directly under the needle, and the fabric running front to back. Press the fabric onto the sticky stabilizer. Press Baste and press the second button to baste the fabric to the stabilizer in the hoop. Close the window by clicking on the X. 11. Embroider colors 1 and 2. Advance the color to color 4, skipping color 3 (White). Continue with the embroidery until the design is completed. When the embroidery is complete, remove the hoop from the machine and remove the fabric from the hoop. Gently pull away the fabric from the stabilizer. 12. Hoop for the next design, and position the fabric at the marking at one end. Follow the previous steps until the embroidery is complete. Repeat for the marking at the opposite end of the fabric strip. 13. Return the design to the Edit screen: Select Home, and select Edit. The design will now appear on the Edit screen. Select the center motif. Delete the center motif by pressing the trash can. Select Home, and Built-in Designs. The hoop selection should be SQ23. Select Design #16. It will now appear in the center of the arrangement. Adjust the size to 90%. Press OK. color sort, and press OK. Our second design is now ready to sew. 14. Hoop the fabric using sticky stabilizer, and embroider the second design at the two remaining marks. Remember to skip color 3, the same as we did for the first embroidery design. When all embroidery is complete, remove any excess stabilizer and press the panel from the wrong side. 15. Cut the embroidered panel to a width of 11". Trim each end of the fabric 1" from the embroidery.
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Sewing:
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16. Change the Horizon MC15000 to ordinary sewing and all purpose thread. Measure the length of the embroidered panel. 17. Cut the remaining fabric to the following dimensions: 18. Turquoise canvas: Cut a strip 11" x the length of the embroidered panel. 19. Zigzag print: Cut four end panels 11" wide x 10". The yardage should be enough to 'fussy cut' the ends so that the pattern is the same for each panel. 20. Sew an end panel to each end of the embroidered panel with a 1/2" seam allowance. Sew an end panel to each end of the turquoise panel with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seams open. 21. Place the low loft batting on a flat work surface. Center the embroidered panel right side up over the batting, with the fabric centered. 22. Place the turquoise strip over the embroidered strip with right sides together. Match the seams and edges, and pin in place. Sew around the panel with a 1/2" seam, leaving a 6" opening on one side for turning the panel. Trim the excess batting close to the stitching, matching the line of stitching at the opening. Trim the corners and turn right sides out. Press, folding the opening to match. Top stitch along the edge of the runner, closing the opening as you stitch.
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23. The tile designs used for this runner can be adapted for many sizes of tables. Adjust the number of designs to make a longer or shorter runner, or increase the number of rows to create a wider runner.
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Ohio Star Duffel Bag
Ohio Star Duffel Bag You will need: • • • • • • • • •
a selection of cotton fabrics: ½ m focus fabric (e.g. small motif) – includes amount for backing ½ m complementary fabric (e.g. denim blue.) Small pieces of 3 complimentary coloured fabrics (e.g. cream, beige, navy blue) – approx 20" x 10" (or a fat eighth) ½ m quilters wadding 1.5mtrs of cord for drawstring soft pencil (or other suitable marker) and ruler neutral sewing thread a selection of decorative threads (optional) e.g. Janome Embroidery thread
Preparation Note: a ¼ seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise stated. Cut the following sized pieces from both wadding and backing fabric: • 32" x 17" rectangle • Additionally Measure the length of the panel to determine the size of circle for the base. Use the circle attachment set at approx 10½” to create a perfect circle. Cut out the circle from denim blue fabric (for base) Cut the following sized pieces from fabric only: • 1 x strip approx 2” x 32” wide to fit around the top of the bag • 1 x 5”x2” to create a slider
Making the Duffel Bag 1. Make a patchwork panel (alternatively use a piece of patterned fabric). 2. Make a quilt sandwich with your patchwork panel on the top. Allow a generous 4" of wadding (and backing) to show at the top. | Fig. 1 3. Quilt in the ditch along the major seam lines to stabilise the sandwich (or quilt your patterned fabric rectangle). Optionally add more decorative embroidery or quilting at this stage. Work a few additional lines of triple stitch to give the piece additional textural interest.
1: Quilt Sandwich
Ohio Star Duffel Bag, Cont. 4. Make a quilt sandwich from the large square of denim blue, wadding and backing - this will be used for the base of the bag. Baste and then quilt the sandwich to stabilise – try an evenly spaced (1" apart) cross hatching across the whole piece before cutting out the base. 5. To join the side seam-trim one edge up to the finished panel. On the opposite end trim the wadding but leave the extra fabric; this is used to fold over the finished seam to hide any raw edges. Alternatively you could create your own binding to neaten the seam. 6. Trim the wadding from the lower edge of your panel, leave the contrasting fabric as before. Pin the circle base easing the fabric in, stitch in place, either use the spare fabric to hide the raw edges or create your own binding. Leave a small gap to insert the cord later. 7. On the upper edge trim the wadding so you have approximately 2” above the panel but leave the contrasting fabric (lining) about 3” above the wadding as this is used to fold over to the right side. Turn under approx. ½” on the lining fabric and bring over to the front just enough to cover the edge of the top panel this will create the border on the top of the bag. Stitch in place also top stitch close to the upper edge. 8. Using the plain fabric cut a strip approx 2” wide to fit around the top of the bag, turn under approx. ½” or less on either side, starting at the side seam pin in place around the top border folding in the edges at the start and finish. 9. To cover the cord-depending on the size of cord cut a bias strip of your preferred fabric to the length of cord (you may need to join lengths to get the length you need), place it around the cord just to determine the seam allowance, once you have determined the seam allowance join the two edges together to create tube, using a rouleaux loop turner turn it right side out, insert your loop turner through the tube and hook it onto your cord pull the cord through the tube. 10. To create a slider-cut a piece of fabric 5”x2” fold it in half length ways (2½” x 2”) and stitch across the bottom turn it through, fold it in half and stitch ¼” seam turn it through and position it so the seam is in the middle top stitch over the seam. 11. Insert the covered cord through the casing on the top of the bag, thread each end of the cord through the slider and secure the ends in the gap left at the base, turn the bag inside out and stitch to secure the ends.
Creating the Patchwork Panel Preparation 1. Make two Ohio Star Blocks (see instructions below). Alternatively use 2, 6½" x 6½" squares of focus fabric if preferred. 2. Cut the following rectangles of fabric for the patchwork panel: •
2, 1½ x 6½ from denim blue (A)
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2, 1½" x 9" from navy blue (D)
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2. 11½" x 2" from focus fabric (H)
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2, 7½" x 1½" from beige (Ba)
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2, 1½" x 9" from denim blue (E)
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2, 1½" x 12" from navy blue (I)
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2, 7½" x 2" from beige (Bb)
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2, 11½" x 1½" from cream (F)
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2, 3½" x 12" from focus fabric (J)
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2, 2½" x 9" from denim blue (C)
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2, 11½" x 1" from navy blue (G)
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2, 15½" x 2" from beige (K)
Ohio Star Duffel Bag, Cont. 3. Referring to Fig. 2, and following the order cited below, make up the left and right panels as two separate sections. Join the rectangular pieces one at a time to the base Ohio Star Block, pressing the seam allowances towards the darker fabrics as you work.
2: Order of Piecing
4. Join the two sections together. Your patchwork panel is now complete. Press. 5. At this stage you may wish to decorate your panel by stitching some lines of decorative embroidery. To do this back the panel with an iron-on stabiliser (do not iron on too heavily) and work lines of embroidery Left panel stitches as desired. This panel was Take Ohio Star block created using three different stitch Attach denim blue rectangle (A) to right patterns (created using Stitch Attach beige rectangle (Ba) to top Composer) which complement the Attach beige rectangle (Bb) to bottom focus fabric. In addition multiple lines Attach denim blue rectangle (C) to left of stitching have been worked to Attach navy blue rectangle (D) to left add interest to the plain rectangles. Attach denim blue rectangle (E) to left They have been combined with Attach cream rectangle (F) to top a variety of straight line stitches Attach navy blue rectangle (G) to top including triple stitch, satin stitch Attach focus fabric rectangle (H) to top and fine zig-zag stitch. Much of the Attach navy rectangle (I) to right stitching echoes the edges of the Attach focus rectangle (J) to right component rectangles – take care to Attach beige rectangle (K) to top try and avoid stitching where there is additional bulk from underlying seam allowances as your embroidery foot can easily slip. A small composite pattern stitches have been worked in the Ohio Star blocks for added interest. 6. Remove as much of the stabiliser as you can – take care not to pull too heavily on the stitching. Press your completed panel.
Ohio Star Blocks (instructions makes two blocks) Preparation 1. Cut 8, 3½" x 3½" squares of fabric as follows: •
4 in denim blue
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2 in cream
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2 in beige
2. Cut 10, 2½" x 2½" squares as follows (and put to one side for now): •
2 in focus fabric
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8 in cream
Right panel Take Ohio Star block Attach denim blue rectangle (A) to right Attach beige rectangle (Ba) to bottom Attach beige rectangle (Bb) to top Attach denim blue rectangle (C) to left Attach navy blue rectangle (D) to left Attach denim blue rectangle (E) to left Attach cream rectangle (F) to bottom Attach navy blue rectangle (G) to bottom Attach focus fabric rectangle (H) to bottom Attach navy rectangle (I) to right Attach focus rectangle (J) to right Attach beige rectangle (K) to bottom
Ohio Star Duffel Bag, Cont. Making the Blocks
3. Half Square Triangle Blocks
3. Take two fabric squares – one blue and one cream. With a soft pencil (or other suitable marker) and ruler draw a diagonal line across the back of the lighter of the two squares. 4. Place the squares right sides together (diagonal line showing) with the lighter square lying on the top. 5. Sew ¼" either side of the marked line. | Fig. 3a. 6. Cut along the marked line to reveal two identical Half Square Triangle blocks. | Fig. 3b, press the seam allowance to the darker side.
4. Quarter Square Triangle Blocks
7. Repeat three more times using pairs of squares as follows:
8.
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Cream with denim blue - once
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Beige with denim blue - twice
Take two Half Square Triangle blocks (one of each colour pairing).
5: Constructing an Ohio Star Block
9. Draw a diagonal line across the back of one of the Half Square Triangle blocks, | Fig. 4a. 10. Place squares right sides together with the blue triangles lying diagonally opposite each other. 11. Stitch a line ¼" either side of the marked line. | Fig. 4a. 12. Cut along the marked line to, | Fig. 4b to reveal two Quarter Square Triangle blocks. Press the new seam open. 13. Repeat three more times (to make eight blocks in total). 14. Trim each block to an accurate 2½" x 2½" ensuring that you centre the block before trimming. 15. Using these blocks, together with those you put to one side earlier, lay out two sets each comprising nine 2½" x 2½" blocks, | Fig. 5 Join the nine blocks together to create three rows; each consisting of three blocks. Join the rows together. Press.
DISCLAIMER - EVERY CARE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO ENSURE THE ACCURACY OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS, BUT NO GUARANTEE CAN BE GIVEN WITH REGARD TO THE FINISHED PROJECT AS MATERIALS AND PROCEDURES USED TO MAKE THE DESIGN WILL VARY.
Ohio Star Duffel Bag, Cont. A guide to creating a stitch pattern based on a fabric motif using Stitch Composer Image Preparation To create a stitch design pattern based on a fabric motif it is easiest to start with a digital image of the motif. This can be either a digital photograph or a scanned image which must be saved in a format supported by Stitch Composer, such as a .JPEG or .BMP image.
A guide to creating a stitch pattern based on a fabric motif using Stitch Composer Image Preparation To create a stitch design pattern based on a fabric motif it is easiest to start with a digital image of the motif. This can be either a digital photograph or a scanned image which must be saved in a format supported by Stitch Composer, such as a .JPEG or .BMP image. Hint - When choosing a motif for photographing/scanning try to capture just the motif and avoid including too much extraneous background, Fig. 1a. Alternatively, if using an existing image, this may be cropped using a paint/photo manipulation program. a.
CLICK HERE to download the complete guide (PDF).
b.
Original Fabric
Fig. 1 - Preparing an image for use in Stitch Composer
If the finished orientation of the stitch is important then the image should be rotated to reflect this prior to importing it into Stitch Composer. When designing with Stitch Composer the length of the stitch will run from left to right across the design grid. As the motif in Fig 1a is directional it will be necessary to rotate the image by 90 degrees such that the top of the image corresponds with the top (start) of the finished stitch motif, Fig 1b. Whilst it is worth considering the orientation of a motif when taking/scanning the original digital image, rotation may also be achieved using a paint/photo manipulation program.
Janome UK August 2013
Split the Difference Pillows
Split the Difference Pillows CREATED BY MICHELE MISHLER
Janome Supplies: • • • • • • • •
Horizon MC15000 A foot (9mm) F foot (9mm) P foot Janome Embroidery Thread Janome pre-wound bobbins Janome Blue Tip needle SQ23 Hoop
Fabric and Notions (Yardage will make two pillows): • 5/8 yd outdoor canvas, olive green (60" width) • 5/8 yd outdoor canvas, lime green (60" width) • Two 20" polyester filled pillow forms for outdoor use (such as Weather Soft by Fairfield) • All purpose thread to match fabric • Sticky stabilizer (such as Jenny Haskins Hoop Magic) • 1 yd fusible web • Hand sewing needle A
Outdoor canvas is a firmly woven fabric that works perfectly for outdoor living. With the new Horizon MC15000, there are so many bold and beautiful embroidery designs to add pattern and color to a simple pillow. We chose a circular design and added a shaped appliqué to create our pillow.
Instructions: 1. From each fabric, cut: •
One 20" square for the pillow back
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One 21" square, cut diagonally
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Reserve remaining fabric scraps for the petals.
2. Print the petal pattern. Place the fusible web on your work surface with the paper side facing up. Slide the pattern under the fusible web, and trace four petal shapes, leaving 1/2" between the petals. Cut around each outline leaving a 1/4" margin. 3. Apply the fusible web to the leftover fabric, following the manufacturer's instructions. You will need two petal patterns from each fabric.
Split the Difference Pillows, Cont. 4. Remove the paper backing from each petal section. Mark the center of the straight edge with a pin. Locate the large triangles. Mark the center of the longest side for each triangle. Match each olive green petal shape to a lime green triangle, and a lime green petal shape to each olive green triangle. Place the petal shape on top of the triangle, matching the straight edge of the petals to the longest side of the triangle, aligning the edges and pin marks. Fuse in place, following the manufacturer's instructions.
A
5. Set up the Horizon MC15000 for ordinary sewing. Thread the machine with bobbin thread and Janome Embroidery Thread. On the screen, select Home, then select Appliqué. From the stitches, select Blanket Stitch M. Use the toggle button to return to beginning at each corner, pivot, and stitch around each petal. Repeat for each fused petal shape. | Fig. A 6. Re-thread the Horizon MC15000 with all purpose sewing thread. Match an olive green triangle to a lime green triangle along the long edge. Match and pin so that the appliquéd petals align at the seam. Sew with a 1/2" seam. Press the seam open. Repeat for the second pair of triangles. 7. Change the Horizon MC15000 to professional-styled embroidery. Select Home, and select Built-in Designs. Change hoop size to SQ23, and select design #16.
B
8. Outdoor canvas is a heavy weight fabric that is not easy to hoop using the traditional hooping method. Instead, hoop sticky stabilizer, paper side up. Score the paper with a pin and remove the paper within the hoop. Secure the hoop to the machine. Mark the center of the pillow front, and place it on the diagonal over the hoop. The center mark should be centered under the needle, and the seam should be aligned in a horizontal position. Press Baste and press the second button to baste the fabric to the stabilizer in the hoop. Close the window by clicking on the X. | Fig. B & C 9. Complete the embroidery, and then remove the hoop from the machine. Snip the basting threads and then tear away the excess stabilizer. Press the finished embroidery from the wrong side. Trim the pillow front to make a 20" square. 10. Change the Horizon MC15000 to ordinary sewing and all purpose thread. Match each pillow front to a pillow back (There is one of each color). To complete the pillow, sew the pillow front and back together with a 1/2" seam, leaving a 10" opening on one side for turning. Trim the corners and turn right side out. Insert the pillow form, pushing the corners of the pillow form into the corners of the pillow. Fold under the opening and pin in place with the folded edges matching. Hand sew the opening closed.
C
Split the Difference Pillows
Bridesmaid dress
Bridesmaid dress LINDA PIDZAMECKY EDUCATIONAL CONSULTANT JANOME CANADA
Fabric and Notions : • Pattern: Vogue 2481 • Lavender silk dupioni • Janome embroidery thread: • Pink #211 •
Purple #261
•
Aqua # 229
Instructions: 1. The design used from the MC15000 is from the World of Embroidery Design Folder, #13. Five templates of the design were printed to add the sprays of embroidery. 2. To position the embroidery, Linda folded the pleats on the pattern, placed the pattern on a a dress form, and taped the templates into position.
Embroidered Tunic with Duffel Bag & Sun Hat
Embroidered Tunic with Duffel Bag & Sun Hat JANOME UK
Embroidered Tunic MC15000 Built-in design used: Sublime Stitching by Jenny Hart JE_2_01 (Flowers) Commercial pattern used: Simplicity 2690, some slight alterations were made to the tunic to best feature the embroidery
Duffel Bag 1. MC15000 Built-in design used: Sublime Stitching by Jenny Hart JE_2_02 (Skull) 2. Commercial pattern used: Burda Young 7412 3. Decorative Stitches used: •
Embroidery section: Border & Normal Sew
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Decorative Stitches: Quilt section
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No. 10
Page 1 of 5
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No. 18
Page 1 of 5
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No. 29
Page 2 of 5
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No. 63
Page 4 of 5
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No. 68
Page 4 of 5
4. Decorative stitches: Satin stitch section •
No. 1 Page 1 of 2
•
No. 2 Page 1of 2
5. Feet & Accessories used: •
3 way cording foot
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Circular attachment
Sun Hat Commercial pattern used: Vogue 7600
Flower Girl Dress
Flower Girl Dress I used a dress pattern that I have had for a LONG time – I used it to make dresses decades ago for my daughter who is now a 31 year old Mom to 2 little girls! 1. I used largest size on the pattern: 4/5 year old. | Fig. A 2. Pink silk dupioni was used for the dress and the lining was shell pink poly satin. 3. Embroidery designs are built-in designs from new TOL (MC15000). 4. The heart design was used as default size on the bodice but reduced by 10% for the hemline. 5. The scroll design was reduced by 20% and used alternating with the heart around the hemline. 6. INSERT 102
A
7. All embroideries were placed using printed templates and the Janome Clothsetter. | Fig. B 8. The embroidery thread used was Janome polyester embroidery thread in color # 217; 201 & 243. | Fig. C 9. Pink poly sewing thread was used throughout the construction of the garment. 10. No hem stitching was done: Steam a Seam was used to adhere the hemlinefor a smooth finish. 11. Bodice front 7 back & lining bodice front & back were constructed and seams pinked. & pressed carefully one direction. | Fig. D 12. These were then placed together & pinned to hold together.
B
13. Entire garment was lined with pink satin & all seams are therefore internal & not seen. 14. I did not overlock the seam edges as I wished to reduce bulk. But I did use pinking shears to reduce the fraying of the fabrics. 15. Piping was made using bias strips of quilting cotton fabric and mini piping cord. I used the Pintuck Foot N1 with needle position moved to the left. | Fig. E 16. Piping was attached to the silk bodice fabric & turned inside after clipping the seam. | Fig. F 17. Lining fabric was tucked under & sewn down from the right side on the fabric just to the side of the piping. | Fig. G 18. The back bodice has button & button hole closure – all sewn with Buttonhole foot R & stabilizer plate and Button sewing foot T. | Fig. H 19. The skirt and lining fabric was lined up at seams & pinned to hold together. | Figs. I, J 20. Approx 4 – 5 inches of center back seam was open and edged with a placket of same pink silk dupioni. This was presses & pinned in place before continuing.
C
Flower Girl Dress, Cont. 21. 2 rows of gathering stitching was run along the top edge of the skirt through both silk and lining fabrics. This was then pulled up gently to fit the botton edge of the bodice back & front.
G
22. Skirt was attached to bodice with straight stitching and the Acufeed Flex foot for good feeding of the thick layers & gathers. | Fig. K 23. Seam was cut down to reduce bulk and then neatened with a satin binding. A sash was made from silk dupioni with narrow around the body & then flaring out to the ends of the sash. Matching embroidery was added to the ends of the sash. I used the same embroidery design as the bodice but reduced it further in Janome Digitizer software to fit the small end of the sash. 24. Loops for the sash were added to the side seams at the skirt/bodice section 25. The sash was threaded through these loops and tied at the center back.
H
26. I hung the dress for 24-48 hours to allow the lining to “drop” & then it was hemmed with a straight machine stitch.
D
I
E
J
F
K
Flower Girl Dress
Memory Craft 15000
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