»Hiking in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Argentina (p151). Thirteen
countries strong,. South America is home to astounding natural and cultural
wonders.
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Welcome to South America............... Map .................................. 15 Top Experiences ........ Need to Know ................. If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Countries at a Glance ....
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Setting for Big Adventures From the snowcapped peaks of the Andes to the undulating waterways of the Amazon, South America spreads a dazzling array of natural wonders. This is a continent of lush rainforests, towering volcanoes, misty cloud forests, bone-dry deserts, redrock canyons, ice-blue glaciers and sunkissed beaches. As landscapes go, there aren’t many other places on earth that oՖer so much range – or so many opportunities for adventure. You can hike past ancient temples Àrst laid down by the Incas, contemplate the awe-inspiring power of Iguazú Falls or spend the day watching wildlife from
Festivals & Events
Hiking & Trekking
Whether you prefer the colorful pageantry of Semana Santa (Holy Week) or the unbridled revelry of Carnaval, the continent has you covered. From the traditional to the downright surreal, here are a few events worth planning a trip around.
Against a backdrop of Andean peaks, misty cloud forests and Amazonian jungle, trekking here is world class. Whether you’re out for a short day’s hike or a multiday journey, you’ll find limitless options.
Itineraries
Fiesta de la Mamá Negra This Ecuadorian fest features processions, witches, whole roast pigs, a bit of cross-dressing and plenty of alcohol (p658)
The Big Loop » Andean High » Deep South » Sailing the Mighty Amazon » Atlantic Coast »
Festival y Mundial de Baile Learn some new moves at this massive tango festival in Buenos Aires in August (p51) Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria In Puno, Peru gives a thunderous street party for its patron saint (p836)
32
Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos One of Bolivia’s biggest bashes includes Àreworks, dancing, feasts and wild costumes (p20)
Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
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Quilotoa Avid walkers shouldn’t miss this scenic multiday Ecuadorian journey, overnighting at simple village guesthouses along the way (p659) Choro Traversing Bolivia’s Parque Nacional Cotopata, the four-day Choro Trek begins amid alpine scenery before descending into the lush, subtropical Yungas region (p203) Cordillera Huayhuash circuit Rivaling the big Himalayan treks, this 10-day Peruvian odyssey takes you among alpine lakes with condors circling the nearby 6000m peaks (p886) El Chaltén In Argentine Patagonia, El Chaltén oՖers unparalleled trekking amid glaciers, alpine lakes and craggy mountains (p146)
a dugout canoe on one of the Amazon’s countless igarapés (narrow waterways). You can barrel down Andean roads by mountain bike, go whitewater rafting on class V rivers and surf amazing breaks oՖ both coasts. And once you think you’ve experienced it all, head to the dramatic landscapes in Tierra del Fuego, go eyeto-eye with extraordinary creatures in the Galápagos, and scramble up tableland mountains in the Gran Sabana for a panorama that seems straight out of the Mesozoic era.
3
Cultural Treasures South America’s great diversity doesn’t end with geography. Across the continent
Wildlife South America is home to more plant and animal species than any other place on earth and there are countless settings to watch wildlife.
Talk to locals With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you’re going.
The Amazon Manaus is still one of the top gateways for a journey into the mother of all rainforests (p381) The Pantanal You’re likely to see even more animal species here than in the Amazon at these wildlife-rich wetlands; Cuiabá is one of the top spots to plan a trip (p329)
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The Galápagos Needing little introduction, these volcanic islands are home to creatures so tame, you’ll practically be tripping over all the sea lions you come across (p704)
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Cloud forests With over 400 recorded bird species in the area, Mindo’s cloud forests are a mecca for birders (p651) Parque Nacional San Rafael Paraguay’s verdant strand of Atlantic Forest has refreshing lakes, forest paths and superb bird-watching (p780)
Ciudad Perdida Like a scene torn from an Indiana Jones Àlm, the trek to Colombia’s ‘Lost City’ is a challenging six-day (return)
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Urban Allure Buenos Aires is a scintillating metropolis of steamy tango halls, oldworld cafes and hip
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Carnaval Many towns in Brazil throw a wild pre-Lenten bash, but Salvador and Rio are the best places to celebrate a few sleepless nights (p270)
Thirteen countries strong, South America is home to astounding natural and cultural wonders. The challenge is deciding where to begin. Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and Colombia offer affordable
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Reserve a room Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Patagonian glaciers, Incan ruins, colonial towns, white-sand beaches and vertiginous nightlife: the wonders of South America set the stage for incredible adventures.
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ON THE ROAD
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
Venezuela Colombia
Guyana p747
p968
Suriname p917
French Guiana p728
p528
Ecuador p624
Brazil p262
Peru
p798
Bolivia p174
Paraguay p765
Argentina p38
Chile p408
Uruguay p933
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Regis St Louis, Sandra Bao, Greg Benchwick, Celeste Brash, Gregor Clark, Alex Egerton, Bridget Gleeson, Beth Kohn, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Paul Smith, Lucas Vidgen
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favorite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top recommendation
ARGENTINA. . . . . . . . . 38 BUENOS AIRES. . . . . . . . . . . . 41 NORTHEAST ARGENTINA. . . 64 Parque Nacional Iguazú. . . . 83 NORTHWEST ARGENTINA. . 84 Córdoba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Salta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Quebrada de Humahuaca. 105 ATLANTIC COAST. . . . . . . . 108 CENTRAL ARGENTINA . . . . 114 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 THE LAKE DISTRICT . . . . . 124 Bariloche. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 PATAGONIA. . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. . . . . . . . . . . .151 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. . . . . . 152 UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA. . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 166
BOLIVIA. . . . . . . . . . . 174 LA PAZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Tiwanaku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 LAKE TITICACA. . . . . . . . . . 192 THE CORDILLERAS & THE YUNGAS. . . . . . . . . . 199 SOUTHERN ALTIPLANO. . . 204 Oruro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Uyuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Tarija. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . 218 Sucre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Potosí. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 THE SOUTHEAST. . . . . . . . 232 THE AMAZON BASIN. . . . . 237
A green or sustainable option
Parque Nacional Madidi. . . 241 Rurrenabaque. . . . . . . . . . . 237 UNDERSTAND BOLIVIA. . . 244 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 252
BRAZIL. . . . . . . . . . . . 262 RIO DE JANEIRO. . . . . . . . . 266 THE SOUTHEAST. . . . . . . . 287 Paraty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 São Paulo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Ouro Preto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Tiradentes. . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 THE SOUTH. . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Ilha de Santa Catarina. . . . 311 Foz do Iguaçu. . . . . . . . . . . 318 THE CENTRAL WEST. . . . . 321 Brasília. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 The Pantanal. . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Bonito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 THE NORTHEAST. . . . . . . . 334 Salvador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 THE NORTH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Amazon Jungle. . . . . . . . . . 385 UNDERSTAND BRAZIL. . . 389 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 398
CHILE. . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 SANTIAGO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 NORTHERN CHILE. . . . . . . 439 San Pedro de Atacama. . . . 451 Iquique. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 MIDDLE CHILE. . . . . . . . . . 465 THE LAKES DISTRICT. . . . 472 CHILOÉ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Parque Nacional Chiloé. . . . 495 NORTHERN PATAGONIA. . . 496 Futaleufú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
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SOUTHERN PATAGONIA. . . 502 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. . . . . . . . 508 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. . . . . . 512 RAPA NUI (EASTER ISLAND). . . . . . . 513 UNDERSTAND CHILE. . . . . 515 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 522
COLOMBIA . . . . . . . . 528 BOGOTÁ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532 NORTH OF BOGOTÁ. . . . . . 543 THE CARIBBEAN COAST. . . 554 Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona . . . . . . . . 560 Ciudad Perdida. . . . . . . . . . 562 Cartagena. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565 SAN ANDRÉS & PROVIDENCIA. . . . . . . . . . . 576 NORTHWEST COLOMBIA. . . 577 Medellín. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577 SOUTHWEST COLOMBIA. . . 591 Cali. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592 San Agustín. . . . . . . . . . . . . 601 AMAZON BASIN. . . . . . . . . 605 UNDERSTAND COLOMBIA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 617
ECUADOR . . . . . . . . . 624 QUITO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 628 Mitad del Mundo . . . . . . . 650 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 651 Mindo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651 Otavalo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS. . . . . 657 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi. 657 The Quilotoa Loop. . . . . . . 659 Baños. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 661
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS. . . 670 Cuenca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671 THE ORIENTE. . . . . . . . . . . 680 PACIFIC COAST & LOWLANDS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 688 Montañita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696 Guayaquil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 697 GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS. . . . . 704 UNDERSTAND ECUADOR. . . 712 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . . 719
FRENCH GUIANA. . . 728
Cayenne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731 Rémire-Montjoly. . . . . . . . . 735 Cacao. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736 Trésor & Kaw Nature Reserves. . . . . . . . . 736 Saül. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 737 Kourou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 737 Îles du Salut . . . . . . . . . . . . 739 St Laurent du Maroni . . . . 740 Mana & Awala-Yalimopo. . . 742 UNDERSTAND FRENCH GUIANA. . . . . . . . . . 743 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . . 744
GUYANA. . . . . . . . . . . . 747
Georgetown. . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 Kaieteur National Park. . . . 756 Iwokrama Rainforest. . . . . 757 North Rupununi. . . . . . . . . 758 South Rupununi. . . . . . . . . 759 UNDERSTAND GUYANA. . . . 760 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . . 762
PARAGUAY. . . . . . . . . 765 ASUNCIÓN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 768 SOUTHERN PARAGUAY. . . . 775 Encarnación . . . . . . . . . . . . 776
Parque Nacional San Rafael. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780 EASTERN PARAGUAY . . . . . 781 NORTHERN PARAGUAY. . . . 784 Concepción. . . . . . . . . . . . . 784 Bahía Negra & the Paraguayan Pantanal. . . . .785 THE CHACO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 786 The Mennonite Colonies. . . . 787 UNDERSTAND PARAGUAY. 789 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . . 793
PERU. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798 LIMA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 802 SOUTH COAST. . . . . . . . . . . 817 Nazca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822 AREQUIPA & CANYON COUNTRY. . . . . . 826 LAKE TITICACA. . . . . . . . . . . 835 CUZCO & THE SACRED VALLEY. . . . . . . . . 840 Machu Picchu. . . . . . . . . . . 857 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS. . . . . 862 NORTH COAST. . . . . . . . . . 868 HUARAZ & THE CORDILLERAS . . . . . . . . . . . 879 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS. . . 886 Kuélap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 891 AMAZON BASIN. . . . . . . . . . 892 UNDERSTAND PERU. . . . . . 903 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 909
SURINAME . . . . . . . . . 917
Paramaribo. . . . . . . . . . . . . Brownsberg Nature Reserve & Brokopondo . . . Upper Suriname River. . . . Central Suriname Nature Reserve. . . . . . . . . .
920 926 926 927
Galibi & Coppename Nature Reserves. . . . . . . . . 928 UNDERSTAND SURINAME 928 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 930
URUGUAY. . . . . . . . . . 933 MONTEVIDEO. . . . . . . . . . . 936 WESTERN URUGUAY. . . . . 943 Colonia del Sacramento. . . 943 Tacuarembó & Around. . . . 950 EASTERN URUGUAY . . . . . . 951 Punta del Este. . . . . . . . . . . 954 Punta del Diablo. . . . . . . . . 957 UNDERSTAND URUGUAY 959 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 963
VENEZUELA. . . . . . . .968 CARACAS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 972 Archipiélago Los Roques 989 THE NORTHWEST . . . . . . . 992 THE ANDES. . . . . . . . . . . . . 999 Mérida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 999 THE NORTHEAST. . . . . . . . 1007 Cueva del Guácharo . . . . . 1011 ISLA DE MARGARITA. . . . . 1013 GUAYANA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1016 Ciudad Bolívar . . . . . . . . . . 1017 Salto Ángel (Angel Falls) 1021 Canaima. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1022 GRAN SABANA. . . . . . . . . . 1024 Roraima. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1024 Santa Elena de Uairén. . . 1025 AMAZONAS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1028 Puerto Ayacucho . . . . . . . 1028 UNDERSTAND VENEZUELA. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1031 SURVIVAL GUIDE. . . . . . . . 1038
PANAMA
OCEAN
\ #
QUITO# _
^ # Coca
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^ #
Río
Lake Titicaca Island hopping and indigenous cultures (p192)
Machu Picchu The ancient Inca citadel (p857)
^ #
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^ # Santa ^ #
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^ # Salvador
^ #
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The Amazon The fabled rainforest (p385)
ATLANIIC OCEAN
Central Suriname Nature Reserve Treks in rainforest (p927)
^ # Belém
Ilha de Marajó
^ #
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Ri o Ori ^ # ^ # Mérida Ciudad GEORGETOWN Cúcuta VENEZUELA Bolivar _ # ^ # Roraima Bucaramanga Kaieteur _ PARAMARIBO # ^ #Puerto # Y # (2810m) Y Falls R ^ # Tunja ] Cayenne # \ Ayacucho Angel # Santa Elena Falls _ BOGOTÁ # de Uairén SURINAME FRENCH re a i GUIANA av # GUYANA Boa Vista ^ (FRANCE) Rio G
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^ #
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^ # Puerto
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^ #
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Cartagena A salsa-loving, colonial beauty (p565)
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#
45 ° S
30°S
Buenos Aires Blazing nightlife, colorful neighborhoods (p41)
Tropic
pric of Ca
Salar de Uyuni Otherworldly salt flats (p212)
5 0 °S
45°S
1,000 km 500 miles
#
50°S
45°S
Potosí
Mendoza
\ #
Temuco ^ #
# Concepción ^
El Bolsón
Bariloche
## ÷ ]
^ #
^ # Río Gallegos
Punta Ushuaia Arenas ^ #
Puerto Natales
# Parque Nacional ÷ Torres del Paine # ]
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares El Calafate
Madryn
] Puerto #
^ # Curitiba
Puerto Iguazú
4
\ #
del Plata
] Mar #
^ # Stanley
Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas)
ATLANIIC OCEAN
MONTEVIDEO
del Este
Punta del Diablo
] Punta #
\ #
Porto Alegre
] Pelotas #
_ #
_ #
Rosario
] #
URUGUAY
Santa Fe
^ #
BUENOS AIRES
\ #
^ #
São Paolo
Torres del Paine Granite peaks soaring over Patagonia (p508)
40 ° S
5 0 °S
Glaciar Perito Moreno Massive, dramatically set glacier (p151)
Colonia del Sacramento Photogenic 18th-century charmer (p943)
20°S
30°S
Encarnación Paraguay’s most captivating city (p776)
Iguazú Falls One of earth’s mightiest falls (p83)
Rio de Janeiro Beaches, caipirinhas and samba (p266)
de Janeiro
Horizonte
Ouro Prêto
# Rio ]
\ #
^ # Belo
^ # Encarnación \ # ^ # Florianópolis ay Posadas ] Caxias do Sul #
ASUNCIÓN
Corrientes ^ #
ARGENTINA
Coyhaique \ #
\ #
CHILE
Ilha Grande de Chiloé
\ #
Pucón
] Chillan #
^ #
Córdoba
Tucumán
\ #
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^ #
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PARAGUAY
^ # San Salvador ^ #
San Pedro de Atacama
Viña del Mar ^ # \ # ] # _ Valparaíso # SANTIAGO
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# Antofagasta ^
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Archipiélago Juan Fernández (CHILE)
^ #
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°W 100
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95°W
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90°W
95°W
Paul Smith Paraguay From an early age, and with a vague and naive ambition to be the next David Attenborough, Paul dreamed of exploring the remotest areas of the globe in search of wildlife, eventually settling in Paraguay in 2004. While researching this edition Paul came face to face with a jaguar in the Pantanal, witnessed a coup d’etat, was re-impressed by the power of water at the Itaipú Dam and learned about Jesuit cosmology.
Lucas Vidgen Argentina, Uruguay Lucas was born in Australia but has been wandering around Latin America ever since he saved up the money for his first airfare. He’s lived in Quito and Buenos Aires and came very close to renting an apartment in Montevideo. Lucas has contributed to a range of Lonely Planet titles, including various editions of the Argentina and South America guides. He currently lives in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, where he publishes – and occasionally works on – XelaWho magazine (www.xelawho.com).
Gregor Clark Brazil A South American travel addict since 1990, Gregor Clark has traveled everywhere from Caracas to Tierra del Fuego, from the Galápagos to Machu Picchu to Easter Island. But Brazil remains his favorite country of all, thanks to the warmth, exuberance and graciousness of its people. Peak experiences on this trip included discovering Caraíva and Alter do Chão, returning to Jericoacoara and Lençóis, and finally reaching the Lençóis Maranhenses (a longstanding dream). Gregor contributes regularly to Lonely Planet’s Brazil and Argentina guides. Alex Egerton Colombia A journalist by trade, Alex has been coming to Colombia for 15 years since falling in love with the country while on a mad six-week dash from Venezuela to Mexico. During that time he has learned to love aguardiente, climbed several of the country’s majestic peaks and became a big fan of tejo, but he still can’t dance salsa. When not on the road, Alex splits his time between Medellín and rural Nicaragua. Bridget Gleeson Chile Based in Buenos Aires, Bridget was just starting out as a travel writer when her sister fell in love with a Chilean. She’s been crossing the Andes ever since to visit the Santiago branch of the family, learning how to mix the perfect pisco sour and prepare a proper ceviche along the way. She writes about Latin American food, wine and travel for Lonely Planet, Budget Travel, Afar, Jetsetter and BBC Travel. Follow her adventures at www.bridgetgleeson.com. Read more about Bridget at:
Beth Kohn lonelyplanet.com/memebers/bridgetgleeson Venezuela An aficionada of Latin American rhythms and culture since her Miami childhood, Beth has claimed the window seat on buses throughout the Spanish-speaking world. During her third Lonely Planet sojourn to Venezuela, she was shooed out of the construction site of the new Simón Bolívar Mausoleum, just missed seeing a presidential candidate, and clocked untold hours crisscrossing the country in rattletrap por puestos. A resident of San Francisco, she’s coauthored almost 20 books for Lonely Planet, including the California, Mexico and Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks guides. You can see more of her writing and photography at www.bethkohn.com. Carolyn McCarthy Peru Carolyn had her first major encounter with cumbia and palm reading on an early trip to Peru. For this trip, she sampled hundreds of Peruvian delicacies, climbed Huayna Picchu and checked into one medical clinic. Some of her other Lonely Planet titles include Argentina, Panama, Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, USA and Trekking in the Patagonian Andes. Among other publications, she has written for National Geographic, Outside and Boston Globe. You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com. Kevin Raub Brazil Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Ever since, he’s suffered from Bland Brazilian Beer Disease. Then he met the South. From Blumenau’s German-influenced microbreweries to Porto Alegre’s Dirty Old Man, Brazil’s best boutique beer bar, he found cerveja salvation in the Brazilian south. This is Kevin’s 22nd Lonely Planet guide. Find him at www.kevinraub.net. Read more about Kevin at:
lonelyplanet.com/memebers/kraub
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Coordinating Author, Ecuador After his first trip to the Andes in 1999, Regis returned home, sold all his belongings and set off on a classic journey across Latin America. Since then, he’s returned numerous times, logging thousands of miles on dodgy jungle and mountain roads. On his most recent trip he swam with sea lions in the Galápagos, cycled the scenic Baños-to-Puyo highway and thrashed a rental car on the back roads of Cotopaxi. Regis is the coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s Ecuador and Brazil guides, and he has contributed to more than three dozen Lonely Planet titles. He lives in New York City. Sandra Bao Argentina Sandra is a Chinese-American born in Argentina who has traveled to around 60 countries – but now calls the beautiful Pacific Northwest home. She’s still proud to be a porteña, however, and regularly returns to Argentina to investigate what the wildly fluctuating peso is doing. As well as writing sections of the Argentina chapter, over the last decade Sandra has contributed to a couple dozen Lonely Planet titles.
Read more about Sandra at:
lonelyplanet.com/memebers/sandrabao
Greg Benchwick Bolivia Greg started his career in journalism as the managing editor of the worldfamous Bolivian Times, covering everything from the war on drugs to humanrights abuses and the state of affairs in Bolivia’s numerous bars and discotecas. Since then he’s written dozens of guidebooks on countries throughout Latin America, interviewed Bolivian campesinos and políticos for the UN’s International Fund for Agricultural Development, and continued on a path toward happiness and nonstop adventure. Read more about Greg at:
lonelyplanet.com/memebers/gbenchwick
Celeste Brash French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname This was Celeste’s second trip to the Guianas and she’s determined there will be a third. The down-to-earth adventure and rugged warmth remind her of her ex-home on an atoll in French Polynesia where she lived for 15 years. She currently resides in Portland, Oregon, and writes lots of other Lonely Planet guides (around 40 so far) as well as articles for publications ranging from Islands Magazine to the LA Times. Find her on the web at www.celestebrash.com.
OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 12th edition – Aug 2013 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 894 4 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
23
Itineraries
The Big Loop » Andean High » Deep South » Sailing the Mighty Amazon » Atlantic Coast » Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
PETER ADAMS / GETTY IMAGES ©
24 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC / GETTY IMAGES ©
The Big Loop Four to Six Months
This classic South American journey takes in some of the continent’s most famous sites, including Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Machu Picchu, Iguazú Falls and the Galápagos Islands. The journey begins and ends in Buenos Aires.
Parque Nacional
Cartagena
÷ Tayrona #
_ QUITO #
• # • #
• # Manaus
Cuenca
É
Guayaquil
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Machu Picchu
• # • # Cuzco # Lake Titicaca • _ LA PAZ # # Salar de Uyuni •
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_ LIMA #
Córdoba • #
Iguazú Falls • #
• # Rio de
Janeiro
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É
# San Pedro • • # Salta de Atacama
É
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– #
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• #
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• # Mérida É # Medellín • • # Salto Ángel • # Zona Cafetera Galápagos Islands É
– #
CREDIT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
• #
»» Start off in Buenos Aires. Spend several days exploring the mesmerizing Argentine capital. »» Go east to Bariloche for spectacular scenery then north to historic Córdoba and gorgeous Salta before crossing over to Chile’s desert oasis of San Pedro de Atacama. »» Head into Bolivia to experience the surreal Salar de Uyuni. »» Continue to La Paz and on to Peru via Lake Titicaca. »» Linger in ancient Cuzco and at mystical Machu Picchu before going to Lima and on to Ecuador. »» From Guayaquil, fly to the otherworldly Galápagos Islands.
Clockwise from top left
1 Children in Cuzco, Peru (p841) 2 Plaza de Armas, Cuzco (p841) 3 Volcán Licancábur, Chile (p451) 4 Quito, Ecuador (p628)
É
É
_ BUENOS # AIRES
# Bariloche •
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
»» Back on the mainland, visit colonial Cuenca and historic Quito. »» Pass into Colombia to see the spectacular Zona Cafetera and bustling Medellín, then go to Cartagena to chill out on the Caribbean. »» See beautiful Parque Nacional Tayrona and then hang out for a couple of days in Mérida, Venezuela, before visiting Salto Ángel. »» Cross into Brazil and onto Manaus for a jungle trip before flying down to Rio de Janeiro for beaches and nightlife. »» Visit thundering Iguazú Falls before returning to Buenos Aires.
25 YINYANG / GETTY IMAGES ©
LEONID PLOTKIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
26 DENALDI PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©
Andean High Two Months
For rugged adventure, unparalleled alpine vistas, rich indigenous cultures and colorful market towns journey down the Andes from Colombia to Argentina. Along the way, you’ll pass through colonial towns, cloud forests and surreal desert landscapes.
É
_ BOGOTÁ #
É
QUITO
Volcán Cotopaxi
• # Cuenca • #
Vilcabamba
É # Huaraz •
Inca Machu Trail Picchu Cordillera Real • # É • # • #• #
Cuzco
É
PA C I F I C OCEAN
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AXEL FASSIO / GETTY IMAGES ©
÷ Parque Nacional Puracé # Pasto • Otavalo • # # San Agustín • # • # • # Laguna de la Cocha _ Mindo #
• #
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• # Salar de Uyuni É
Clockwise from top left
1 Street food in Bogotá, Colombia (p532) 2 Highlands around Mindo, Ecuador (p651) 3 Plaza de Bolívar, Bogotá (p532) 4 Parque Nacional Huascarán, Peru (p884)
• # Quebrada de
Humahuaca
É
»» Fly into Bogotá, taking in the old historic center and lively nightlife. »» Continue south to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Puracé, for Andean treks. »» Then go to Pasto and on to the beautifully set Laguna de la Cocha. »» Cross into Ecuador and visit Otavalo, for markets and day trips to alpine lakes. »» Head west to Mindo for misty cloudforest adventures. »» Continue south through Quito and on to Volcán Cotopaxi, for hikes and majestic scenery. »» Visit colonial Cuenca, relax in laid-back Vilcabamba, then continue into Peru and down to Huaraz for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca.
Cerro Aconcagua • #
• #
Mendoza
»» Spend a few days in Cuzco, then hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. »» Head across shimmering Lake Titicaca into Bolivia for more hiking in the Cordillera Real. »» Continue south to the Salar de Uyuni, before crossing to Argentina by way of the spectacular Quebrada de Humahuaca. »» Continue into Argentina toward enchanting Mendoza, near massive Cerro Aconcagua, the western hemisphere’s highest peak.
27 VISUALS UNLIMITED, INC./GERRY BISHOP Y / GETTY IMAGES ©
MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES ©
28 GRANT DIXON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Deep South One to Two Months
Mysterious, windswept, glacierriddled Patagonia is one of South America’s most magical destinations. Patagonia – and the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego – is best visited November through March, and you can see more for cheaper if you camp.
DAN FAIRCHILD / GETTY IMAGES ©
_ BUENOS # AIRES
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Parque Nacional Lanín
Parque # Nacional ÷ ÷ Nahuel Huapi # É
• #
Bariloche
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• # # Esquel Futaleufú •
Faunística ÷ Reserva # Península Valdés
÷ Reserva Provincial # Punta Tombo
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Coyhaique • # Lago General Chile Chico Carrera • #• #• # Los # Capilla de • Antiguos Mármol
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
1 Parque Nacional Lanín, Argentina (p127) 2 Fitz Roy range, Argentina (p146) 3 Glaciar Perito Moreno, Argentina (p151) 4 Ushuaia, Argentina (p153)
÷ #
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Punta Arenas • # Tierra del Fuego • # Ushuaia É
Clockwise from top left
Parque Nacional El Los Glaciares #Chaltén (Glaciar Perito • ÷ Moreno) #
É
É
»» Start in the outdoors-loving town of Bariloche. Take in the stunning Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi and Parque Nacional Lanín. »» Head south to Esquel, for a taste of the Old Patagonian Express. »» Travel west into Chile to the Andean hamlet of Futaleufú for some of the continent’s best rafting. »» Take the scenic Carretera Austral to Coyhaique and on to Lago General Carrera, and visit the caves of Capilla de Mármol. »» Head to the windswept Chile Chico, then cross into Argentina to Los Antiguos. »» Bounce down to El Chaltén in spectacular Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, and on to
the wondrous Glaciar Perito Moreno near El Calafate. »» Cross back into Chile to hike beneath the granite spires of Torres del Paine. »» Head to Punta Arenas, then south into Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego and bottom out at Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. »» Work back north along the Atlantic, stopping for penguins in Reserva Provincial Punta Tombo and whales in Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. »» End the trip in Buenos Aires.
PICAVET / GETTY IMAGES ©
TIM MAKINS / GETTY IMAGES ©
23
Itineraries
The Big Loop » Andean High » Deep South » Sailing the Mighty Amazon » Atlantic Coast » Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
PETER ADAMS / GETTY IMAGES ©
30 RALF HETTLER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Sailing the Mighty Amazon One to Two Months
The mightiest river on the planet makes a fabled setting for adventure. This tough but rewarding journey travels its length, taking in wildlife-watching, historic cities and beautiful river beaches.
Ilha de Marajó Manaus
É
Iquitos
Leticia • # É • #
• #
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• # • # Belém
• # Santarém • # É Alter do
÷ Reserva Nacional #
Chão
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Pacaya-Samiria • # Lago Yarinacocha
• #
Pucallpa
PA C I F I C OCEAN
»» Start in Pucallpa, Peru (a flight or long bus ride from Lima). »» Before hitting the river, visit nearby Lago Yarinacocha, a lovely oxbow lake ringed by tribal villages. »» From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Lagunas, where you can continue on to the wildlife-rich Reserva Nacional PacayaSamiria. Afterwards, spend a day exploring the bustling city of Iquitos. »» From here, get a boat to the tri-border region of Peru, Colombia and Brazil, and take a break in Colombia’s Leticia.
Above
1 Toucan 2 Canoeing on Rio Solimões, Brazil (p381)
»» From Leticia, it’s three more arduous days to the bustling city of Manaus, which is famed for its 19th-century opera house and buzzing markets. This is also a great base for jungle excursions. »» Chug east to Santarém, where you can visit the white-sand beaches of Alter do Chão. »» Another 3½ days further, and you’ll reach culturally rich Belém, a good spot for sampling traditional Amazonian cuisine. »» Cross over to Ilha de Marajó, a massive river island dotted with friendly towns, wandering buffaloes and pleasant beaches.
PAUL EDMONDSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
31 CREDIT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Atlantic Coast One to Two Months
Colonial towns, Afro-Brazilian culture, gorgeous beaches and buzzing nightlife set the stage for an epic 7400km ramble up the Atlantic coast. Surfing, snorkeling, forest treks and urban exploring are all essential experiences along the way.
Alcântara
Parque Nacional dos Lençóis
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• #• # Maranhenses Fernando de Noronha # ÷• São Luís # # Jericoacoara •
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• # Salvador
• # Arraial d'Ajuda • #
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Paraty • # Rio de Janeiro • #• # Ilha Grande
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Above
1 Jericoacoara, Brazil (p365) 2 Festival in Salvador, Brazil (p334)
• # Florianópolis
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
É
»» Start off in Argentina, spending a few days taking in the charms of Buenos Aires before ferrying over to historic Montevideo. »» Stop in Uruguay’s pretty beach towns – Punta del Este, La Paloma and Punta del Diablo – en route to Brazil. »» Make your way to Florianópolis, gateway to secluded beaches and stunning scenery, then head up the coast to the scenic colonial town of Paraty, and get your island fix on rainforest-covered Ilha Grande. »» Northeast of there await the pretty beaches, lush scenery and samba-fueled nightlife of Rio de Janeiro. »» Fly to Porto Seguro and continue to Trancoso and Arraial d’Ajuda – both enticing, laid-back towns near cliff-backed beaches.
BUENOS AIRES
Punta del Diablo
• #
## _ # La Paloma _• #• f # Punta del Este
MONTEVIDEO
»» Spend a few days in Salvador, Brazil’s mesmerizing Afro-Brazilian gem. »» Further up the coast, visit pretty Olinda, then catch a flight from Recife to the spectacular archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. »» Back on the mainland, travel north, stopping at the backpackers’ paradise of Jericoacoara and the surreal dunes of Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses. »» The final stops are reggae-charged São Luís and untouristy colonial Alcântara.
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